Wine 2017

Our view on the 2017 vintage

The 2017 vintage was marked by low volume of grapes, because of the frost (similar to 1991 vintage). However, some plots were saved from the frost, such as in Margaux and Saint Julien (Left Bank, Bordeaux), as well as certain parcels on the Right Bank (Pomerol and Saint Emilion). As a result, 2017 Bordeaux wines may be concentrated and rich while other wines will be more subtle red Bordeaux wines. The big producers knew how to adapt to the lack of concentration of the 2017 vintage, similar to 2014, in order to produce elegant wines such as Chateau Evangile. There are also great 2017 wines in the Medoc, as for instance in Saint Estephe, Pauillac and in Pessac Leognan (in the Graves).

Burgundy stood out in 2017, except in Chablis and some South Burgundy areas (in the Maconnais) that have suffered from weather hazards. The Cote de Nuits had a good harvest, spared from frost, and promises great Burgundy red wines. Some winemakers compare the important volume of 2017 to the one of 2009. The 2017 Burgundy red Grand Cru wines are splendid, especially in Gevrey and Chambertin. Vosne Romanee and Morey Saint Denis are superb, as well as Clos de la Roche and Clos Saint Denis. Some plots have been very much affected by the frost on the Cote Chalonnaise, notably Givry, Bouzeron, Mercurey and Rully.

The Northern Rhone Valley was spared from weather hazards in 2017. The Rhone red wines are charming, with silky tannins, like the 2017 Cornas produced by Vincent Paris. The white wines of the Northern Rhone valley are more tricky: concentrated, with a medium to high alcohol and medium to low acidity. 2017 Saint Peray wines are a success, combining richness and freshness. The 2017 Condrieu wines are generous and lovely, as the most important producers made up for the lack of acidity by working on the bitterness of their wines, in order to bring more balance, like Cuilleron or Gerin. Hermitage designation of origin has produced more white wines than in 2016: the 2017 Hermitage wines are more tropical, richly textured and deep.

Provence and Corsica suffered from a severe drought in 2017. Hydric stress has resulted in poor harvests in volume but high concentration of aromas. The white wines are less crisp than in 2016, with more bitterness. The red wines are full bodied with charming texture, sometimes jammy, like the 2017 Abbatucci wines.