Pierre Gonon Iles Feray 2023
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Must-See Châteaux |
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A safe bet in the Northern Rhône
Domaine Pierre Gonon, located in Mauves in Ardèche, is a 10-hectare family treasure in Saint-Joseph, managed by brothers Pierre and Jean, the fourth generation of winemakers. On the steep granite hillsides of the Northern Rhône Valley, they produce powerful syrahs and aromatic whites using organic farming and natural winemaking methods.
The Domaine Pierre Gonon is established in Mauves, in Ardèche, at the heart of the Saint-Joseph appellation, in the northern Rhône Valley. This area, the historic birthplace of the AOC, extends across the steep hillsides of Mauves, Tournon and Saint-Jean-de-Muzols, facing the famous Hermitage hill, with which it shares the same granitic bedrock.
The Pierre Gonon estate relies on the emblematic grape varieties of the northern Rhône Valley. The red Saint-Joseph is crafted from approximately 40-year-old Syrah vines, planted on steep granite terraces. For the white Saint-Joseph "Les Oliviers", the estate blends Marsanne, planted in 1958 by father Pierre, and Roussanne introduced in 1974, co-fermented and aged in neutral foudres.
The Pierre Gonon estate relies on three main terroirs: the lieu-dit "Les Oliviers" near Tournon, with red clay soils scattered with pebbles; parcels at the heart of the appellation on very granitic soils; and vines on gneiss in Saint-Jean-de-Muzols, which are home to the estate's oldest vines. Among these parcels is also the former Aubert vineyard planted in 1915 by Raymond Trollat, purchased by the Gonon brothers upon his retirement in 2006.
The Gonon brothers have been cultivating their vines without chemical fertilizers, herbicides, or pesticides since 2004, using entirely natural composts. The official organic certification was obtained in 2010. This rigorous environmental approach has been at the heart of the Domaine Pierre Gonon's identity for more than two decades.
The Gonon brothers ferment their reds in a traditional manner in open oak vats, with regular foot punchdowns, and include a high proportion of stems, as was the ancient custom in the region. The ageing is then carried out in one- to two-wine barrels for 18 months. This minimalist approach gives the wines of Domaine Pierre Gonon their characteristic aromas of black olive, violet and pepper.
The Saint-Joseph rouge from Domaine Pierre Gonon is a wine made for ageing. Experts recommend leaving it in the cellar for around fifteen years before opening, with a peak estimated around 2037-2040 for recent vintages. Its dense palate, structured by fine tannins and endowed with a striking minerality, gives it a remarkable ageing potential.
The history of Domaine Pierre Gonon is one of peasant resilience rooted in the Ardèche soil, stretching back to the early twentieth century. From a family of modest farmers, the original founder cultivated a few vineyard plots within the family estate, supplemented by subsistence mixed farming: fruits, vegetables and cereals provided for daily sustenance. Like so many others at the time, this versatile farm reflected the rural challenges of a century marked by wars and economic crises.
The eldest son, Émile, less passionate about the land, opted for an administrative career, leaving the vines to decline under the weight of neglect. It was not until the mid-1950s that Pierre Gonon, a direct descendant then aged 15, took the reins to revive the vineyard. Armed with determination, he replanted the neglected hillsides, learned to make wine and sold his first harvests to local négociants. This pioneering period laid the foundations for a renewal, transforming a modest plot into a promising estate.
In 1964, a decisive turning point: Pierre and his wife acquired an ideal plot for white wines, inaugurating the first "house" cuvée of Saint-Joseph blanc. At a time when these whites were little valued by négociants, this bold initiative marked the shift to independent production, asserting the estate's identity. The 1980s brought a new era with the arrival of the sons, Pierre and Jean, who joined their father in 1988 to assist him as his health declined. The two brothers, united by a shared vision, settled permanently, modernising the estate while preserving the family heritage.
From 1990 onwards, they initiated a transition towards more respectful practices: cover cropping in the vineyards to encourage biodiversity, the acquisition in 2004 of equipment adapted to steep hillsides, and full commitment to organic farming from that year. Official certification came in 2010 or 2011 depending on the source, crowning two decades of effort. In 2006, a bold move: the purchase of the legendary old vines of Raymond Trollat in Saint-Jean-de-Muzols — the brothers' spiritual mentor — enriched the estate with century-old plots and ancestral know-how. Today, with a new cellar dedicated to whites inaugurated in 2024, Domaine Pierre Gonon shines as a historic benchmark of Saint-Joseph.
At the heart of the Saint-Joseph appellation, the terroirs of Domaine Pierre Gonon captivate with their geological diversity and privileged exposure, shaping wines of an incomparable typicity. Spread across 10 hectares divided into around forty plots, the estate is established on three original communes — Mauves, Tournon-sur-Rhône and Saint-Jean-de-Muzols — which formed the historical core of the AOC created in 1956, before its extension in 1969. These steep hillsides, granitic mirrors of the Hermitage across the river, benefit from an east and south-east exposure, tempered by the mistral, which lends the grapes an essential freshness in the face of the warm continental climate.
Poor and free-draining soils dominate: decomposed granites, fractured gneiss, red clays and alluvial loess on a granitic bedrock. In Mauves, the Montagnon offers a pure and compact granite, ideal for structured syrahs; at Les Oliviers, near Tournon, stony and clayey alluvial soils bring roundness and richness, while Saint-Jean-de-Muzols, with its fine gneiss and surface rock outcrops, produces more mineral and taut wines. These terroirs, inherited from the Roman era and mentioned by Victor Hugo in Les Misérables under the name "vin de Mauves", demand titanic labour: slopes of up to 50% excluding mechanisation, manual work or winching, and horse ploughing on 50% of the surface.
The vines, averaging 40 years old, are exclusively sourced from massale selections — cuttings from healthy plants — to preserve genetic diversity and resilience to climate change. Setting aside the vigorous but short-lived clones of the 1970s–1980s, the Gonon brothers favour high planting density (6,500 to 9,000 vines/ha), short gobelet pruning and ancestral staking with échalas forming arches to prolong ripening and limit yields to 30–38 hl/ha. No systematic topping or leaf removal: the grass is scratched, the soils enriched with composts and herbal teas, without herbicides or pesticides since 2004. Occasional green harvesting and meticulous bud removal ensure healthy grapes, harvested by hand at optimal maturity to avoid over-ripeness.
Viticulture is certified organic, managed by a team of 4 to 10 people depending on the season. The result: age-worthy wines in which the power of northern Rhône syrah is allied with olfactory finesse.
Winemaking at Domaine Pierre Gonon is a traditional art, guided by intuition and respect for the fruit, to elevate the terroir without artifice. Everything begins with rigorous sorting in the vineyard, transport in small crates to preserve the integrity of the grapes, followed by partial destemming (0 to 25% depending on the vintage and the stems). Fermentations are carried out exclusively with indigenous yeasts, in open wooden or thermoregulated concrete vats, for a gentle maceration of 2–3 weeks: foot pigeage, daily pump-overs and light treading for delicate extraction, avoiding any astringency.
For the reds, which dominate with 75–100% whole bunches, this whole-bunch approach imparts florality and structure, while the whites are pneumatically whole-pressed, cold-settled naturally before fermentation in barrels. Ageing — the heart of the philosophy — lasts 11–16 months in 600-litre demi-muids (ranging from 3 to 70 years old, no new wood) or large vats for the reds, and in 225-litre barrels with lees stirring for the whites. The plots, vinified separately, are blended en masse at the end of winter, favouring complexity and balance.
Interventions are minimalist, including moderate sulphuring (15 mg/l free at bottling, added strategically to anticipate oxidation), occasional fining with egg whites to soften the tannins, and bottling on a descending moon, unfiltered and chemically unstabilised. This method, inherited from Raymond Trollat and refined by the brothers, produces stable, expressive and evolving wines in which terroir and vintage enter into harmonious dialogue.
Domaine Pierre Gonon offers a small but iconic range of cuvées, each reflecting a unique aspect of its terroir and expertise.
Saint-Joseph Rouge, the flagship cuvée from 7.5 hectares of 40-year-old syrah on the granites of Mauves, Tournon and the gneiss of Saint-Jean-de-Muzols. Powerful and fresh, it offers aromas of black fruits, pepper, violet, olive and leather, with a dense, flowing palate and a striking length. Aged 14–16 months in demi-muids, it excels as a wine for ageing (10–20 years), ideal alongside red meats or aged cheeses.
An absolute rarity, the Saint-Joseph Rouge "Vieilles Vignes", produced only four times since 2006 (2006, 2007, 2009, 2010), comes from 1.2 hectares of syrah planted in the 1920s on gneiss at Trollat. It combines depth, finesse and floral nuances with a remarkable structure for a majestic evolution. A confidential production, it symbolises the pinnacle of northern Rhône syrah.
For the whites, the Saint-Joseph Blanc "Les Oliviers", from 2 hectares (80% marsanne, 20% roussanne) on granite, clay and loess at Les Oliviers (vines averaging 40 years old, planted as early as 1958), delivers intense aromas of white fruits, flowers and spices, with a rich, silky texture and an ageing potential of 20 years. Fermented and aged 11–12 months in barrels on the lees with regular lees stirring, it captivates with its complexity and freshness.
More approachable, the Vin de Pays de l'Ardèche "Les Iles Feray", syrah (averaging 25 years old) on granitic alluvial soils outside the AOC, is an enticing entry-level wine: red fruits, supple tannins, 10 months aging in barrels.
Finally, the Vin de France "Chasselas", a historical curiosity from 0.10 hectares on gneiss (planted in 1890, supplemented by massale selection), honours a fruity past: post-phylloxera table grapes transformed into a light, floral and juicy white wine, born from a carefully preserved genetic treasure.
Domaine Pierre Gonon is a guardian of the Rhône heritage, where every gesture — from ploughing to winching and natural fermentation — forges cuvées of rare authenticity. Take advantage of our selection to acquire these gems at the best price, and let yourself be carried away by the magic of the Gonons, an estate where history, land and talent combine.
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