Damien Guadagnolo Côtes du Jura Chardonnay Malleterre 2015
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In Orbagna, a small village in the southern Revermont, Damien Guadagnolo has become one of the Jura’s most closely watched young winemakers in just a few vintages. A former professional boxer, he trained for seven years alongside Jean-François Ganevat. Today, he farms a small vineyard of two to three hectares organically, using biodynamic practices. Single-parcel Chardonnays, Savagnin, Poulsard, Trousseau, Pinot Noir and Gamay make up a range of pure, vibrant, easy-drinking natural wines.
Damien Guadagnolo’s connection to the vines began early: at 14, he acquired a tiny parcel in his native Jura. While studying, he also pursued another passion, boxing, which led to a professional career and a European title. As a teenager, he was already taken under the wing of Jean-François Ganevat, a leading figure in Jura natural wine. He worked alongside him for seven years, both in the vineyard and the cellar. During that time, he sold Ganevat grapes from his own parcels and learned about organic and biodynamic viticulture, spontaneous fermentation and long aging without additives.
In 2013, he hung up his boxing gloves to devote himself entirely to wine. He made his first small-production cuvées in 2015, then took over an estate in Orbagna in 2019 that had belonged to a well-known local winemaker, though its vines and buildings had been left abandoned. That same year marked his first full vintage. In 2023, he reached another milestone, vinifying his entire harvest for the first time.
The vineyard lies in Orbagna, south of Lons-le-Saunier, within the Côtes du Jura appellation. Its parcels sit on clay-limestone soils and the marls typical of the Revermont. These soils drain well while retaining enough water for dry periods, and give the wines their minerality. The continental climate, with its harsh winters and wide day-to-night temperature swings, encourages slow ripening that preserves the grapes’ natural acidity. The estate farms several distinct vineyard sites, including Grusse, Gravière, Malleterre and Le Carré. Grusse is also shared with some of the Jura’s leading names, such as Ganevat, Labet and La Terre Penchée.
The vineyard is planted with the region’s emblematic varieties: Chardonnay and Savagnin for the whites, Poulsard, Trousseau and Pinot Noir for the reds, along with Gamay. The vines are certified organic, and some parcels are farmed biodynamically. Damien pays particular attention to soil life and biodiversity. The grapes are harvested by hand and carefully sorted in the vineyard.
In his small winery, Damien Guadagnolo follows a radically natural approach to winemaking, shaped by his years with Ganevat. Fermentation relies solely on indigenous yeasts, with no additives. The equipment is deliberately simple: stainless steel tanks and old Burgundy barrels that let the wine breathe without masking the fruit. The reds are fermented as whole clusters, often using carbonic maceration, for gentle extraction and great finesse. They are then aged for at least a year in old barrels.
The wines are neither fined nor filtered, and racking is kept to the bare minimum. No sulfur is added to the reds, while the whites receive at most a tiny dose at bottling. The length of aging is determined by tasting rather than by a fixed schedule, allowing it to suit each vintage. The result is vibrant, precise wines of great aromatic purity.
Chardonnay Grusse: from the namesake vineyard site, one of the most renowned in the area, this Côtes du Jura is aged in old Burgundy barrels. After some air, it reveals subtle fruit, lightly honeyed notes and a finish that balances salinity and bitterness. It is one of the estate’s wines for aging.
Chardonnay Gravière: the most taut and linear of the estate’s Chardonnays. With a pronounced citrus character, it offers a texture subtly lifted by brief skin contact and a mineral, saline finish.
Chardonnay Malleterre: this single-parcel Côtes du Jura cuvée shows another side of Orbagna Chardonnay. It combines freshness, precise fruit and lovely depth, and regularly appears on the wine lists of restaurants with a taste for Jura wines.
Chardonnay Le Carré: this single-parcel Chardonnay is the most approachable wine in the range. Its ripe fruit, particularly pear, and supple texture make it appealing to drink young.
Savagnin: Damien vinifies this native Jura grape with the same pursuit of purity. It produces a distinctive, lively white with notes of citrus, gentle spice and fresh walnut, underpinned by bright acidity.
Poulsard: one of the estate’s signature wines. Fermented as whole clusters with no added sulfur, it has a very pale color, aromas of small red berries and a smoky, spicy touch. It is a light red of great finesse.
Trousseau: fermented using carbonic maceration and aged in Burgundy barrels, this Trousseau has a moderate alcohol level. It offers intense aromas of fresh red fruit and a vibrant structure, making it remarkably easy to drink.
Trousseau Rosé: produced in very small quantities, this lighter expression of the grape emphasizes freshness, crisp fruit and sheer drinkability.
Pinot Noir: even rarer than the estate’s other reds, this Jura Pinot Noir recalls the finesse of a fine Burgundy. It pairs perfectly with roast poultry and aged cheeses.
Gamay: sold as Vin de France and fermented as whole clusters, this Gamay from clay-limestone soils is generous without being heavy. It combines dark fruit, gentle spice and floral notes.
Macvin du Jura: this traditional fortified wine is made by adding Jura grape marc brandy to grape must to stop fermentation. It combines fruit and warmth and is equally at home as an aperitif or with dessert.
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