Domaine de la Bongran

The wines of Domaine de la Bongran: buy at the best price

Domaine de la Bongran is an atypical and cult reference from the Mâconnais, in the south of Burgundy, nestled in the hamlet of Quintaine, in Clessé. The Thévenet family, Jean and then his son Gautier, craft Viré-Clessé wines from Chardonnay of incomparable richness and minerality, harvested at perfect ripeness long after all the other winegrowers have finished their harvest. Certified in organic farming, the domaine ages its wines at length in tank, without passing through oak, to allow the terroir of white marl to express itself with purity. Dry wines with a slight residual sweetness, off-dry or luscious cuvées depending on the vintage: Bongran perpetuates a rare tradition of wines with residual sugars. 

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Bongran Viré Clessé Cuvée Levroutée 1995
2 in stock
130315
White
75cl
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Burgundy | Viré Clessé

Domaine de la Bongran Viré Clessé Cuvée Levroutée 1995

€48.00 inc-VAT per bottle
€40.00 ex-VAT

History of Domaine de la Bongran

Domaine de la Bongran takes its name from a variation of bon grain, meaning soil that produces good grapes. A family property passed down through generations, it was originally known as Gillet. The Thévenet name appeared in 1904 with Philémon, and his son Émile later developed the estate. Jean Thévenet, who inherited the family tradition in 1972, gave the estate its modern identity and has worked tirelessly to preserve the tradition of wines with residual sugar in this part of Burgundy.

His son Gautier joined the family operation in 1996 and took charge of the cellar in 2000, carrying on this expertise with respect for the soil, winemaking traditions and the time the wines need. Today, the family manages three complementary estates in the Quintaine area: la Bongran, Domaine Émilian Gillet and Domaine de Roally in Viré, all certified organic since 2008. Each expresses a distinct facet of Viré-Clessé Chardonnay, with la Bongran remaining the historic and emblematic heart of this heritage.

Terroir and Vines of Domaine de la Bongran

The vines thrive in the hamlet of Quintaine, at an elevation of 250 to 300 meters, on the area's characteristic white marl. Similar in nature to the terroir of great white wines such as Corton-Charlemagne, this clay-limestone soil preserves lively acidity even at full ripeness, giving the wines depth, elegance and remarkable aging potential. The estate also benefits from a favorable microclimate that encourages the development of noble rot in some years.

Chardonnay is the sole grape variety, grown on very old vines reaching 80 or 85 years of age, which contribute concentration and complexity. The soils are plowed, the vines are tended without chemicals and with respect for the living environment, and Ecocert certification attests to this organic approach. Yields are deliberately kept very low, at around 35 to 45 hectoliters per hectare—roughly a third of what the appellation permits—to bring out the best in this generous terroir.

Winemaking at Domaine de la Bongran

The house's signature begins with the harvest. The grapes are picked entirely by hand, as late as possible, when they have reached extreme ripeness, on the verge of shriveling, sometimes enriched by noble rot for the most opulent cuvées. The decision to harvest is guided by tasting rather than numbers, when the grapes are bursting with flavor. The bunches are then pressed slowly and gently.

After the must has settled, fermentation proceeds using only indigenous yeasts, with no commercial yeast or bacteria. It is so slow that it can last up to two years, often leaving a few grams of residual sugar. Unusually for Burgundy, the wine is aged exclusively in tanks, with no time in barrels, to preserve its soul and the purity of the fruit, before several years of bottle aging. True to the philosophy of Jean Thévenet, for whom terroir is to wine what a composer is to music, while the winemaker is merely the conductor, cellar intervention remains minimal.

The cuvées of Domaine de la Bongran

Viré-Clessé Cuvée E.J. Thévenet: the estate's flagship wine, this dry cuvée honors Émile and Jean Thévenet and comes from old Chardonnay vines in Quintaine. With just 2 to 4 grams of residual sugar, it reveals a brilliant golden hue and an opulent nose of candied pineapple, white flowers, honey and dried fruit. The full, rich and concentrated palate combines the estate's characteristic hint of sweetness with taut minerality and dazzling length. A fine white wine from Burgundy, built for very long aging, it pairs with white meats, fish in sauce and cheeses, especially blue cheeses.

Viré-Clessé Cuvée Levroutée: produced only in great vintages, this off-dry cuvée, with around 18 grams of residual sugar, comes from grapes harvested at the very edge of overripeness, sometimes lightly touched by noble rot. Jean Thévenet himself coined the term levrouté. The honeyed nose blends candied fruit and peach with a sharp note of lemon, while the refined palate, never cloying, is perfectly balanced by vibrant acidity. A wine for the table, with the depth and aging potential of a truly great white.

Cuvée Botrytis: the estate's rarest jewel, this sweet wine, in the style of a sélection de grains nobles, is made only in a handful of exceptional vintages from fully botrytized grapes. Dazzlingly rich with notes of candied pineapple, honey and yellow fruit, it retains remarkable purity and balance despite its sweetness, rivaling the finest sweet wines. Depending on the vintage and appellation rules, it may be sold under the Mâcon appellation. A collector's bottle, magnificent at the table with desserts or daring pairings.

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