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Must-See Châteaux |
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Domaine des Chézeaux, in Gevrey-Chambertin at the heart of the Côte de Nuits, has an exceptional vineyard estate. More than half its vines are classified as Grand Cru, and it is the largest landowner in the renowned Griotte-Chambertin vineyard. Long entrusted to prominent growers such as Ponsot, René Leclerc and Berthaut under sharecropping agreements, its parcels are now vinified by Charles Van Canneyt, one of Burgundy’s most talented winemakers, who also heads Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat.
The Mercier family has owned vines in Gevrey-Chambertin since 1928. In 1982, François Mercier established Domaine des Chézeaux, naming it after the walled vineyard adjoining the family home near the Château de Gevrey. The name comes from the old word “chesal,” meaning a stone house. Landowners rather than winemakers, the Merciers entrusted their vines to growers under sharecropping agreements. Domaine Ponsot farmed Griotte-Chambertin, Chambertin, Clos Saint-Denis, and Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes. Domaine Berthaut tended the Gevrey premier cru and village vineyards. In return, a portion of the wines went back to the estate, which sold them under its own label.
In 1994, the family acquired a second parcel in Griotte-Chambertin, entrusted to René Leclerc, becoming the largest landowner in this grand cru. For decades, Domaine des Chézeaux bottles remained an insider’s secret: they contained wines made by Ponsot or Leclerc, often at a more approachable price. In 2021, Charles Van Canneyt and his wife, Anne-Sophie, bought the property. They gradually took back the vines from the sharecroppers, produced their first vintage in 2023, and had control of the entire vineyard by 2024.
Today, the estate has around three hectares across six appellations, more than half of them in Grand Cru vineyards. Its jewel is Griotte-Chambertin: approximately 1.25 hectares in the heart of this tiny northeast-facing grand cru, on stony, limestone soil. The holdings also include a parcel in the center of Chambertin, just under 0.4 hectares in Clos Saint-Denis, and around 0.6 hectares in Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes.
In Gevrey-Chambertin, the estate farms two parcels of very old vines in the Les Cazetiers Premier Cru. It also owns Clos des Chézeaux, a half-hectare monopole halfway up the slope below Les Cazetiers, on clay and gravel soils, with some vines planted in 1929. The vines are generally old and cultivated with the same care as at Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat. Maintenance of the woods surrounding the clos has even improved airflow and sunlight for the vines.
Charles Van Canneyt applies the same philosophy at Les Chézeaux as at Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat. The grapes are fully destemmed, and extraction is very gentle to preserve Pinot Noir’s finesse and the transparency of each terroir. The first vintages were vinified in Vosne-Romanée before aging in the estate’s historic cellars in Gevrey-Chambertin. A new winery has since been built on-site.
The cellars at Les Chézeaux are particularly cool and humid. The wines develop more slowly there and need less topping up, so the winemaker is considering slightly longer aging than at Hudelot-Noëllat. The result is fragrant, silky wines of great purity, built to age beautifully.
Gevrey-Chambertin Clos des Chézeaux (Monopole): this unique half-hectare walled vineyard, partly planted with vines nearly a century old, produces a village-level wine with aromas of dark red fruit, iris, and violet. The juicy, vibrant palate rests on fine tannins and a saline finish.
Gevrey-Chambertin: this village-level cuvée was produced under the estate’s label when its vines were entrusted to Domaine Berthaut. It can still be found in older vintages. It is a classic Gevrey, fruity and structured.
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers: from very old vines, this premier cru offers remarkable intensity. A floral, chalky nose leads to a mineral palate with pure black fruit, supported by firm, savory tannins. Production is very limited.
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques: this fresh, elegant premier cru, formerly made by Domaine Berthaut, appears among the estate’s older vintages. The parcel was transferred when the estate changed hands.
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes: this exquisitely delicate premier cru, a favorite of Charles Van Canneyt, charms with its floral aromas, delicate fruit, and silky texture.
Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru: from a parcel of old vines long tended by Ponsot, this Morey-Saint-Denis grand cru appears among the estate’s historic vintages. It briefly returns to the new range in 2024, with just one barrel, before the parcel is replanted.
Chambertin Grand Cru: from a parcel in the heart of Gevrey’s most illustrious vineyard site, this exceptionally rare cuvée combines power, depth, and nobility. It is made for very long aging.
Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru: the estate’s jewel comes from a grand cru in which it is the largest landowner. Older vintages were made by Ponsot or René Leclerc; since 2023, the wine has borne the signature of Charles Van Canneyt. This captivating wine combines red cherry, sweet spice, and smoky notes in a full, voluptuous texture of great elegance.
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