Yquem: an exceptional Sauternes

par Anne-claire weyne
 

Founded over 5 centuries ago, the only Sauternes Premier Cru Supérieur in the 1855 classification, Château d'Yquem is considered the finest sweet wine there is. Indeed, as early as the 18th century, the reputation of this wine crossed our borders all the way to the United States, where Thomas Jefferson took great pleasure in distributing (and tasting!) it. A family affair, it was in 1785 that the last heiress of the Sauvage d'Yquem family, Françoise-Joséphine, took over the estate upon the death of her husband Amédée de Lur Saluces. She would play a key role in the estate's development, greatly contributing to its growth and influence. This highly successful family business for nearly 400 years was acquired in 1999 by the LVMH group, following a family dispute. And it is now Pierre Lurton who is at the helm of the estate. Alexandre de Lur Saluces today retains Château de Fargues, with great success.

The terroir of Château d'Yquem

The vineyard now extends over about a hundred hectares. It is planted on gravelly and clay soil offering optimal drainage, allowing the vine to always be hydrated according to its needs. The grape variety is twofold. You will find both Sémillon, which is dominant, representing approximately 80% of the vines and bringing richness and volume to the wine. As well as 20% Sauvignon, for its finesse and aromas. To this is finally added Botrytis Cinerea or "noble rot", a fungus whose action is facilitated by the morning mist of the Bordeaux autumn - which by absorbing water will promote the concentration of sugar in the grape. It is all of these elements that contribute to the greatness of Château d'Yquem wines: an exceptional terroir, certainly, but also unmatched expertise! Indeed, the harvest is done manually and the selection of the grape is drastic in order to keep only the most beautiful and the most "nobly rotten". Harvested one by one at perfect maturity, quality is thus preferred over quantity in order to produce the best wine possible. The château even reserves the right to eliminate certain vintages deemed "unworthy" in order not to sacrifice quality. The 1992 and 2012 vintages, for example, are therefore non-existent.

The wines of Château d'Yquem

Always faithful to its reputation, Château d'Yquem has maintained remarkable consistency and regularity in the quality of its wines regardless of the vintage. The aromatic universe of the wine is marked by orchard fruits (apricot, orange, prune) or exotic fruits (quince, fruit paste), aging notes in its youth (vanilla, toasted) and notes of sweet spices (clove, saffron, cinnamon). The superb balance that exists on the palate between alcohol, acidity and residual sugar makes it a masterful example of "drinkability". It also benefits from incredible aging that distinguishes it from its neighbors after a few years. As for its longevity, it is incomparable since it needs at least 15 to 20 years to reveal a good part of its potential. In the greatest years, its freshness and richness can even endure for more than a century!

There is also a second cuvée, the Y cuvée from Château d'Yquem. A dry white wine that therefore does not have the right to the Sauternes appellation. It is nonetheless a great wine faithful to the estate's reputation. Made from an equal proportion of Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc, this wine is blessed with superb longevity. It is the vintages from the 1970s that are tasting best today! It is not produced every year. Which makes it an even rarer and more sought-after wine.

The wines of Château d'Yquem are a unique experience that every wine lover, and especially sweet wine enthusiast, should know in their lifetime. As the author of San Antonio Frédéric Dard said, "Yquem? Liquid light…".

Among the great vintages of Yquem that can be found (more or less) on the market, the wines can be classified as follows: Exceptional vintage: 1967, 1975, 2001. Great vintage: 1976, 1982, 1988, 1990, 1995, 1997. Unfortunately, we do not yet have enough perspective to be able to judge the quality of the latest vintages, produced under the new management of the Château (since the 2004 vintage).

 

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