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Perched on the southern slope of Szent György-hegy, a volcanic hill overlooking Lake Balaton, Domaine Bencze (Bencze Birtok) has become one of Hungary’s pioneers of natural wine in just a few years. Founded in 2011 by István Bencze, a former IT specialist turned winemaker, the estate farms around 20 hectares under Demeter-certified biodynamic practices. Rare native grapes and international varieties are vinified in amphorae, sandstone vessels and barrels, without fining, filtration or added sulfur, producing wines of great purity shaped by the minerality of basalt.
Before devoting himself to wine, István Bencze was an entrepreneur in the IT industry with a passion for mathematics. In 2011, he fell under the spell of Szent György-hegy and bought a tiny, one-third-hectare plot on its southern slope. The estate began expanding in 2013, reaching nearly 18 hectares and today covering around 20 hectares across several plots.
Farmed organically from the outset, the vineyard transitioned to biodynamics in the mid-2010s and obtained Demeter certification. A major turning point followed: after visiting natural winemakers in Austrian Styria, István Bencze stopped using sulfur in the cellar entirely, beginning with the 2018 vintage. For him, it is the only way to let the wines fully tell the story of their origins. The estate also welcomes visitors to its guesthouses and takes part in life on Szent György-hegy.
Szent György-hegy is one of the most spectacular volcanic hills in the Badacsony region, on the north shore of Lake Balaton, and is famous for its basalt columns. The estate’s vines occupy three plots on the southern slope, at elevations between 118 and 180 meters, on soils of dense basalt, tuff, Pannonian sandstone, brown forest soils and clay. The most prized plot, Templomdombi, is home to the estate’s oldest vines, planted in the 1970s.
The grape varieties reflect the winemaker’s pioneering spirit. Alongside Hungarian varieties such as Furmint, Hárslevelű, Kéknyelű, Rózsakő, Kék Bakator and Kadarka, some of them nearly forgotten, he grows Riesling, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir and Kékfrankos. A cooler plot in Várvölgy, west of the hill, completes the picture. István Bencze seeks an almost wild balance in his vineyards and harvests early to produce lively, saline wines with moderate alcohol.
In the cellar, the approach is minimalist. The grapes are harvested by hand, often in several passes. Those for the whites are gently whole-bunch pressed, then ferment spontaneously with native yeasts. The estate uses gravity and traditional vessels: terracotta amphorae, stoneware jars, barrels and large oak casks. Aging is often lengthy and, for some cuvées, may take place under a veil of yeast.
All the wines are bottled without fining, filtration or added sulfites. The reds are foot-trodden and macerated for a few days with gentle extraction, sometimes as whole bunches. The estate also makes a traditional-method sparkling wine with exceptionally long aging on racks.
Riesling: a blend of Riesling grapes from the Templomdombi plot, spontaneously fermented and aged in amphorae and stoneware. Lime zest, white peach, flint and a saline finish make for a vibrant, approachable wine.
Aries Riesling: an old-vine cuvée from vines planted in the 1970s, harvested according to the lunar calendar. The 2021 vintage, named Dancing on the Flor, aged for four and a half years in an amphora under a veil of yeast, offering apricot, candied citrus, dried fruit and remarkable saline depth.
Autochthon: a white blend made exclusively from Carpathian Basin varieties—Furmint, Hárslevelű, Kéknyelű and Rózsakő—primarily from Templomdombi. A taut, saline wine driven by acidity.
Hárslevelű: a limited-production wine aged in amphorae and stoneware. Apricot, quince, elderflower and exotic fruit are supported by lively acidity and smoky minerality. The slightly botrytized 2023 vintage has a few grams of residual sugar and a delicate spritz.
Furmint: aged for 20 to 24 months in amphorae and stoneware, this Furmint combines concentration and precision, with citrus, quince, herbs and saline notes, and has strong aging potential.
Kéknyelű: a rare native grape variety of Badacsony, fermented and aged for ten months in amphorae. White flowers, lemon sorbet and white peach precede a powerful, electric palate.
Chenin Blanc: the winemaker’s tribute to the Loire, aged in barrels under a light veil of yeast and then in a large oak cask. Roasted quince, peach, almond and dried fruit make for a full-bodied, long and food-friendly wine.
Pinot Gris Várvölgy: from a cool plot planted in 2003 and aged in 500-liter barrels. Dried apricot, orchard fruit and saline minerality, with a hint of natural spritz and residual sugar.
Olaszrizling Várvölgy: Welschriesling, a traditional white grape of the Balaton region, given a fresh, light interpretation from the Várvölgy plot.
Gemini II Brut Nature: a Pinot Noir Blanc de Noirs made using the traditional method, with no dosage and disgorged after nearly ten years on racks. White peach, candied lemon, brioche and volcanic minerality.
Atlas Pinot Noir: a selection of the finest bunches from the upper vineyard, foot-trodden and aged for ten months on lees in a 2,500-liter oak cask. Red fruit and woodland notes in perfect balance.
Kék II: rare Kékbakator, destemmed by hand and aged in stoneware amphorae. Wild cherry, strawberry and blackcurrant over a saline, crystalline core.
Kékfrankos: from a young planting of three clones, gently macerated for eight days and aged in barrels. Raspberry, plum, black pepper and wild herbs make for a juicy red.
Kadarka: a very limited-production cuvée from bush-trained vines, aged for eleven months in stoneware. Rosehip, raspberry, rose petal and spice make for an airy, delicate red.
Autochthon Rouge: a blend of Kék Bakator, Kékfrankos, Hajnos Kék and Kadarka, vinified separately and then aged in terracotta amphorae. Tart red fruit, supple tannins and a light smokiness.
Piros Bakator: another ancestral Hungarian variety revived by the estate, this supple, savory wine illustrates István Bencze’s commitment to preserving Hungary’s grape-growing heritage.
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