Philippe Livera

History of Domaine Philippe Livera

The story begins around 1920 with Mathé Livera, an Italian mason who settled in Côte-d’Or and was Damien’s great-grandfather. The family established itself in the heart of Gevrey-Chambertin, in a former coaching inn once owned by the counts of Thénissey. The building, flanked by two small towers, faced an avenue of linden trees that gave the estate its first name. For decades, the grapes were sold to major Beaune négociant houses, including Louis Jadot and Bouchard Père et Fils. In the early 1970s, part of the vineyard, including vines in Chapelle-Chambertin, passed by inheritance to Jacqueline Livera, wife of Jean-Marie Ponsot.

Philippe Livera took over the family estate in 1986 and began bottling the wines under his own name. In 2007, his son Damien, then in his early twenties, took charge of the estate. He drew inspiration from leading winegrowers he knew through family, as neighbors or as friends, notably Dugat, Ponsot and Mortet. He renovated the winery, improved vineyard management and gradually reduced the share sold to négociants. His sister Hélène joined him in 2016. The estate then took the name Domaine Philippe Livera in tribute to their father.

Terroirs and Vines of Domaine Philippe Livera

The vineyard covers about nine hectares across roughly forty parcels in Gevrey-Chambertin, Brochon, Fixin and Marsannay. Pinot Noir overwhelmingly predominates. Chardonnay occupies only a small parcel of around twenty ares. The estate owns no premier cru vineyards. Its village-level parcels in Gevrey, however, often border premiers crus and share their qualities. The clay-limestone soils vary markedly from one vineyard to another: thin soils over bedrock on the lower slopes, and chalkier, higher ground at the mouth of the valley. This diversity gives the wines distinct personalities. Many of the vines were planted in the 1950s and 1960s.

Since Damien’s arrival, the vineyard has been managed using sustainable practices inspired by organic viticulture. No herbicides are used. Soil is mounded around the vines in winter and plowed during the growing season. Yields are deliberately limited to produce healthy, balanced grapes. Harvesting is done by hand, and the grapes are sorted in the vineyard and again on a sorting table.

Winemaking at Domaine Philippe Livera

In the cellar, Damien Livera intervenes as little as possible to let the terroir speak. Most grapes are destemmed, then undergo about a week of cold maceration before a long fermentation in concrete tanks using only indigenous yeasts. The family cellars are very cold: malolactic fermentation proceeds slowly there, sometimes lasting more than a year. This gradual development contributes to the wines’ finesse and depth.

The wines age in French oak barrels for twelve to eighteen months. The proportion of new oak varies by appellation: about a quarter for the Bourgogne wines, up to 40% for village wines, and 50 to 100% for the grand cru. Barrels are regularly replaced so the oak never masks the fruit. The wines are bottled without fining or filtration. Built to age, they benefit from a few years in the cellar.

The Wines of Domaine Philippe Livera

Bourgogne Chardonnay: the estate’s only white wine comes from a parcel of around twenty ares. Produced in very small quantities, this Côte de Nuits Chardonnay is fresh and focused, with precise fruit.

Bourgogne Pinot Noir: these vines, planted in the 1960s, are located around Gevrey. Spicy, with earthy notes and dark fruit, this wine is deep and flavorful. It far exceeds expectations for a regional appellation.

Hautes-Côtes de Nuits: made from vines planted at higher elevations, this fresh, fruity red offers lovely tension. It has often been praised as one of the estate’s best values.

Marsannay: this Pinot Noir from the northern Côte de Nuits shares the character of its neighbors in Fixin and Gevrey. It offers dark red fruit, earthy notes and slightly firmer tannins.

Fixin: this cuvée blends two parcels. En Olivier, with its highly mineral soil, borders the Les Arvelets premier cru. La Place lies in the heart of the village. The wine is supple and finely textured, with silky tannins—far from the rustic image sometimes associated with the appellation.

Côte de Nuits-Villages: these vines, planted in the 1950s and 1960s, are in the Préau vineyard at Brochon. The wine is succulent and deep, with all the character of a Gevrey-Chambertin. This cuvée is highly regarded for its value.

Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs: this old-vine parcel on the edge of Brochon lies just below the Champeaux premier cru. On its thin soil, where limestone bedrock reaches the surface, the wine gains structure and mineral depth.

Gevrey-Chambertin Les Évocelles: this renowned vineyard lies high on the slope, at the mouth of the valley, on chalky soil with full southern exposure. It produces a refined, velvety Pinot Noir with ripe red fruit and spice, silky tannins and a delicacy reminiscent of Chambolle-Musigny. This cuvée rewards a little patience.

Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Village: this is the estate’s flagship cuvée. It comes from an enclosed vineyard of about 1.5 hectares opposite the family home, owned entirely by the Liveras and planted with vines more than seventy years old. The wine offers aromas of kirsch, black fruit, licorice and sweet spices, fine tannins and great harmony on the palate.

Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru: the pinnacle of the range, this wine comes from a parcel of about 40 ares in the Les Gémeaux vineyard, just below Chambertin Clos de Bèze, planted in 1952. Powerful and refined, this age-worthy fine wine reveals black cherry, forest floor and truffle, with a remarkably long finish.