Mythical Great Burgundies

par Didier frayssou
 

TASTING REPORT Discover the tasting report by Didier Frayssou from the last Oenoschool tasting on the theme of "Mythical Great Burgundies". One of the most beautiful tastings of the year....

Marc Colin Saint Aubin 1er cru Murgers Les Dents de Chien 2002 **** The robe is golden but without sign of oxidation. The nose is buttery, lactic, one also finds candied citrus with some woody notes that remain. On the palate, the wine is harmonious, with beautiful balance and remarkable length on the palate. This is a wine at its peak of maturity.

Domaine Cordier Chevalier Montrachet 2006 *** A robe with orange reflections, honeyed aromas, dried fruits, cider and caramel. The palate is much more austere and mineral but the wine is very persistent and finishes on beautiful bitters. However, it is relatively evolved for its age and pedigree and should be drunk quickly. D

De Montille Volnay 1er cru Les Champans 1997 *** A quite dense and little evolved robe for a Pinot Noir of almost 20 years. The bouquet is very complex: small acidic red fruits (raspberry, strawberry), earth, fruits in eau-de-vie. The palate conforms to the nose but is quite characteristic of the estate with marked acidity and tannins still present. A lovely wine "a tad" rustic for my personal taste.

Remoissenet Richebourg 1997 ** An evolved robe like its nose: notes of cooked fruits, leather, dried flowers... The attack on the palate is pleasant and the tannins very silky but the length on the palate is disappointing for such a cru.

Robert Groffier Bonnes Mares 1997 ***** The robe is pronounced and the nose both delicate (infused, floral) and modern (black fruits, cocoa). The palate is harmonious and complex (raspberry, spices, lactic notes) and with a very fine tannin grain. "One of the 2 bottles of the evening!"

Denis Mortet Gevrey Chambertin en Derée 2002 (last vintage of Denis Mortet)***(*) The color is little evolved: purplish, matte and intense. One finds notes of licorice, black fruits, floral aromas and slightly roasted. The palate is pure, very fruity, with notes of blackcurrant and present acidity. A wine still very young, preferably to wait a few years.

Pierre Damoy Chambertin Clos de Bèze 2001 ***** A quite light robe, evolved and cloudy. The nose is floral: dried flowers, macerated fruits, bramble. The palate is superb, with beautiful acidity that balances the maturity of the grapes. Silky tannins and a length on the palate worthy of its rank.

Domaine de la Romanée Conti Romanée Saint Vivant 1986 ***(*) (beautiful level 1.5 cm) The robe is very light and very evolved (orange reflections). The nose is superb with bitter orange and faded rose. The palate is marked by very present acidity that gives it an austere side despite beautiful aromatic complexity (leather, olive, dried flowers..). A lovely wine quite alive but which lacks/which has lost fruit to balance this cutting acidity.

 

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