The Great Mythical Burgundies 2.0

par Didier frayssou
 

Tasting Report of the Oenoschool tasting "Les Grands Bourgogne Mythiques", on 3 February 2015: one of the most beautiful tastings of the year!

Vincent Dauvissat Chablis 1er cru Forest 2009 A robe with a colour between straw yellow and gold, of a sustained intensity with green reflections. The nose recalls yellow fruits, anise and, more lightly, honey and mushrooms. On the palate, the attack is unctuous and the alcohol is quite perceptible even if the acidity is present. A weaker aromatic on the palate than on the nose. Very fine potential. To be waited for...

Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne 2002 The pale yellow robe with golden reflections is less sustained than the previous one. A few green reflections are still perceptible. On the nose, one finds aromas of citrus peel, anise, light vanilla/toasty notes, honey and a few more perceptible evolutionary notes such as mushroom. With a very fine volume on a sustained and particularly well-integrated acidity, the palate is coherent with the nose and delivers a great length.

Coche Dury Meursault 1er Cru Caillerets 2001 The robe is a sustained, relatively intense old gold colour. One perceives notes of rather rancid butter, smoke, toast, char, apricot and hazelnuts. A beautiful attack on the palate with yellow fruits and notes that confirm the evolution, such as honey, dried fruits and a few light oxidative notes. This magnificently balanced wine stretches to a fantastic length.

Intruder Wine! Daniel Barraud Pouilly Fuissé "En Buland" 2012 The robe is pale yellow with green reflections and the nose, not very intense, reveals notes of both white fruits and a light woodiness. On the palate, the volume is significant and well balanced by a sustained acidity over a remarkable length. A wine that does not blush too much behind its predecessor!

Coche Dury Monthélie 2002 A lightly intense ruby colour with a few brick-red reflections. The nose delivers notes of smoke, morello cherries, flowers, smoked bacon and cocoa. On the palate, the tart fruit is bright and generous. The acidity is well sustained on a rather narrow palate with a fairly short finish. A very fine achievement for a minor appellation.

Comte Armand Volnay Fremiets 1999 An intense ruby robe with slightly brick-red reflections. The nose reveals aromas of very ripe fruits, undergrowth, morello cherry, earth and toast. On the palate, the tannins are marked and rather rustic but well integrated within a significant concentration and a reasonable acidity. The length is remarkable. A wine that can be waited for even if the tannins seem to resist the passage of time...

Thibault Liger Belair Corton Renardes 2007 The robe is ruby in colour, less intense than the previous one but with more brick-red reflections. The nose is animal, meaty and smoky with a few floral notes. The palate is suave, with a beautiful balance and tannins of great elegance. A sensual Corton opposing a generous palate to a more virile nose, more typical of the appellation…

Meo Camuzet Clos de Vougeot 2007 An intense ruby robe with slightly more brick-red reflections. The nose, very elegant, is floral and reveals aromas of tart red fruits, cocoa and blood orange. Less composed on the palate, the wine reveals tannins and an acidity that are still dissociated. To be waited for…

Hubert Lignier Charmes Chambertin 2009 A moderately intense ruby colour. On the nose, one finds red fruits along with milky and floral notes still held in reserve. The palate, superbly harmonious, even if it remains fairly discreet, reveals a beautiful fruit maturity without excess, on a vintage that is nonetheless very sunny. A fine wine in the making.

Domaine de la Romanée Conti Echezeaux 1998 The robe is cloudy, matte and evolved. The nose reveals toasted notes, aromas of earth, leather, gentle spices and infusion, then a few prune notes. The palate is suave with cooked fruits. Despite the age of this wine, the tannins are rather marked and the length is decent, yet the wine seems to be entering its decline. A slight disappointment...

 

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