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On the western shore of Lake Neusiedl, in the Austrian Burgenland, Gut Oggau has become in less than two decades one of the absolute references in European natural wine. Stephanie and Eduard Tscheppe-Eselböck cultivate around twenty hectares using Demeter-certified biodynamic farming, on limestone, schist and gravel soils, with winemaking that uses no additives, no fining, no filtration and no added sulphur. Their distinctiveness also lies in a concept that has become iconic: each cuvée bears the name and face of a member of an imaginary family, spread across three generations. From energetic children to deep and meditative grandparents, this portrait gallery works as a style guide.
The adventure began in 2007 when Eduard Tscheppe, hailing from a family of Styrian winemakers, and Stephanie Eselböck, daughter of the family behind the famous Taubenkobel restaurant, decided to take over an abandoned estate in the heart of the village of Oggau am Neusiedler See. The property, whose buildings and vaulted cellar date back to the 17th century, possesses a treasure: a 200-year-old vertical wooden screw press, still in service today for the most prized cuvées.
The couple immediately initiated the conversion to biodynamics and obtained Demeter certification. Working through their first vintages, they noticed that each plot yielded a wine with its own distinct temperament, impossible to reduce to a simple grape variety name or a hierarchical range. From this observation arose the concept of the family: rather than a conventional quality pyramid, a genealogy of characters created by the agency Jung von Matt, whose portraits and brief fictional biographies appear on the labels. Theodora, Atanasius, and Winifred represent the children; Timotheus, Emmeram, Eugenie, Cecilia, Josephine, and Joschuari represent the parents' generation; Mechthild and Bertholdi represent the grandparents.
The vineyard stretches around Oggau, in the Leithaberg region between Rust and Eisenstadt, on the western shore of Lake Neusiedl (Neusiedlersee). This shallow lake plays a crucial climatic role: it moderates frosts, provides humidity, and extends the autumn season, while the overlooking hills offer cooler exposures and markedly different soils. The estate cultivates about 25 hectares farmed according to biodynamic principles, utilizing preparations made from plants growing between the vine rows.
The geology directly explains the family tree. The lower parcels, on gravel and sand, produce light and energetic wines: these are the children. The better-exposed, warmer, and riper slopes yield denser, more composed wines: the parents. Finally, on the heights overlooking the village, limestone and schist soils support the oldest vines, between thirty and over sixty years old, often field blends (several varieties co-planted in the same plot): these are the grandparents, vinified as single parcels. Yields are kept deliberately low. The cultivated varieties are Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt, and Roesler for the reds, and Grüner Veltliner, Welschriesling, Weissburgunder (Pinot White), and Gewürztraminer for the whites.
The cellar philosophy rests on one principle: add nothing, take nothing away. Harvesting is done by hand, grapes are sorted and then slowly pressed, with the most prestigious cuvées handled in the estate's antique wooden screw press.
Fermentations start spontaneously using exclusively indigenous yeasts, without inoculation or correction, in large wooden vessels ranging from 500 to 1,500 liters. The reds generally macerate on the skins for three weeks with very gentle extractions, while some whites benefit from brief skin contact that gives them texture and depth. Aging lasts from eight to eighteen months depending on the cuvée, in used casks and tonneaux, without systematic stirring or racking. Bottling takes place without fining, filtration, or added sulfur, with the low residual amount originating solely from fermentation. As a result, the wines may appear slightly cloudy and continue to evolve in the bottle, which defines their vibrant character.
Theodora (white): the youngest in the family, made from Grüner Veltliner and Welschriesling, often co-planted, with brief skin contact. Seductive, cheeky, and full of character, it offers a floral, crisp nose and a saline, refreshing palate. It is the perfect gateway into the estate's world.
Winifred (rosé): defying stereotypes, this wine proves that a rosé can be far more than just a rosé. Initially bright and playful, it goes on to reveal unexpected depth and tannic structure, with redcurrant, sweet spices, and a lovely noble bitterness on the finish.
Atanasius (red): a blend of Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch from thirty-year-old vines planted on gravel and limestone. Vinified after destemming, it macerates for about three weeks and ages for roughly twelve months in used casks. Frank, straightforward, and rooted, it brings together bright red fruit, spices, and minerality.
Timotheus (white): from the parents' generation, combining depth, dignity, and a hint of dry humor. Born on limestone and schist soils, it reveals a broad, tense palate, aromas of pear, fennel, and flint, and a remarkable saline length.
Emmeram (white): the estate's Gewürztraminer, with a dry wit and an open heart. Both unpretentious and self-assured, with roots anchored deep in limestone, it delivers an aromatic profile of rose, lychee, and spice, but in a dry, chiseled, and unweighted expression.
Eugenie (white): the latest addition among the whites, born in vineyards the couple planted themselves, their garden of Eden. Both subtle and engaging, it highlights finesse, lightness, and a silky texture that inspires trust.
Cecilia (rosé): impossible to pigeonhole. Sourced from a co-planting of white and red grapes grown on limestone, it deliberately sits between categories, featuring a pale hue, delicate fruit, and vibrant salinity.
Josephine (red): southern warmth meets deadpan northern humor. Crafted from Blaufränkisch complemented by Roesler, it shows a bright, playful, warm, and enveloping profile, featuring cherry, violet, and pepper, with seamless tannins.
Joschuari (red): Blaufränkisch from the heights, reigning gently over the hills. Its path was stony, and it shows: the wine is full, balanced, and quietly serene, offering black fruits, graphite, and a deep mineral backbone.
Mechthild (white): the grand dame of the family, crafted from the oldest vines on limestone and schist, and pressed using the historic screw press. Precise and delicate, she never seeks attention and is all the more fascinating for it. A fine white for cellaring, both nostalgic and enigmatic, produced in strictly limited quantities.
Bertholdi (red): the grandfather, a Blaufränkisch from the oldest parcels, vinified and pressed in the traditional manner. Dense, spicy, and deeply rooted in the earth, it tells stories you wish would never end and boasts significant aging potential.
Wiltrude (sweet white): representing the older generation, this rare off-dry/sweet cuvée plays on the tension between sugar and acidity, featuring notes of candied fruits, honey, and dried herbs. Edmond occasionally joins the family gallery among recent additions.
Maskerade (white, rosé, red): outside the family portrait, this series brings together wines from newly acquired vineyards whose character has not yet fully revealed itself. They remain masked until their eventual adoption. Generous, juicy, and sometimes lightly spritzy, they are the most approachable wines in the range. The Family Reunion cuvées, in white and red, offer blends combining several of the estate's parcels, while Gut Feeling, a lightly sparkling botanical non-alcoholic drink crafted from wild nettle, chamomile, and yarrow gathered in the vineyards, extends the winery's philosophy beyond wine.
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