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A benchmark in Chateauneuf du Pape : Clos du Mont Olivet
Le Clos du Mont Olivet is a historic and renowned family estate in Chateauneuf du Pape, located in the southern part of the Rhône Valley, which has remained in the Sabon family since the early 20ème century. In the 1950s, the wines of Clos Mont Olivet grew significantly in popularity in France and England. Following various divisions of the estate among the Sabon sons, it was the 3 sons of Joseph Sabon — Bernard, Jean Claude and Pierre — who expanded the Domaine du Clos du Mont Olivet from 1978 onwards.
Various sources report that in 1547, a deed drawn up before a notary already referred to a plot of vines situated ad montem oliveti, at the Mount of Olives. Yet one would have to wait until the beginning of the 20th century for the history of the Sabon family and that of this lieu-dit to converge. Séraphin Sabon, originally from the neighbouring village of Sérignan-du-Comtat, married Marie, daughter of Romain Jausset, a landowner in Châteauneuf-du-Pape: from this union the estate was born, its formal creation dated to 1932.
Like most producers in the appellation at that time, the family first sold its harvest in bulk to négociants. It was the dream of Séraphin and then his son Joseph Sabon to transform Clos du Mont-Olivet into a leading estate: in the aftermath of the Second World War, the family finally began to bottle and commercialise its own wines. The name of Joseph Sabon still appears on the labels. His sons Pierre, Jean-Claude and Bernard then took over, before the current generation, around Thierry Sabon, a doctor in physics who turned to winemaking, took charge of the property. Renowned for its confident classicism and its pursuit of freshness rather than demonstrative power, the estate was awarded three stars by the green guide of La Revue du vin de France, alongside Château Rayas, Clos des Papes, Domaine Charvin and Le Vieux Donjon.
The estate owns twenty-seven hectares in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, very well situated in the north-eastern part of the appellation, of which two hectares are reserved for white wine production. The estate's name comes from the lieu-dit Montalivet, where numerous plots are planted, to which are added vines on La Crau, Bois Dauphin and Pied de Baud. It is on the stony terroir of La Crau, carpeted with rounded pebbles that return by night the heat accumulated during the day, that the property's oldest vines are found — Grenache vines close to a century old, the most ancient of which date back to 1901.
The family also cultivates plots in Lirac, on the right bank of the Rhône, as well as in Côtes du Rhône and IGP Gard, which considerably broadens its palette of soils and expressions. Since 2024, the entire vineyard has been committed to conversion to organic farming. The estate has furthermore always carried out work on field blending of almost entirely endemic grape varieties, some of them extremely rare, and is involved in the creation of a dedicated conservatory, convinced that the quality of wines is born from the diversity of grape varieties. The management follows an exacting peasant farming approach, where every decision originates first in the vines.
The Mont-Olivet style rests on a simple idea: never seek maximum extraction, but favour elegance and freshness. The vats are filled by gravity, with partial destemming adjusted according to the vintage, often around 60%. The different grape varieties ferment together, so as to create harmony from the moment of vatting rather than reconstituting it at blending. Macerations are long, up to forty days, and fermentations take place entirely in concrete vats.
The aging also begins in concrete, then continues in a carefully measured combination of vessels: large oak vats for the most part, complemented by stainless steel tanks, several-wine-old demi-muids, terracotta jars and a few non-new barrels. If, during this aging, certain vats prove particularly interesting, the initial blend may be modified: nothing is fixed, everything is decided through tasting. New oak is banned, in order to preserve the purity of the fruit and the signature of the terroir. The estate also keeps a significant share of its bottles in the cellar for many years, building up a remarkable collection of old vintages that it offers for sale from time to time.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Tradition Rouge: the estate's historic and emblematic cuvée, a blend of the appellation's classic grape varieties with a clear dominance of Grenache from vines often sixty years old. It stands out for its complex aromas of black cherry, cooked raspberry, garrigue, tapenade and spices, lifted by that warmth of sandalwood that connoisseurs recognise as the Mont-Olivet signature. Ample, savoury and fresh, it keeps easily for fifteen years and more.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Tradition Blanc: sourced from the two hectares devoted to the appellation's white grape varieties, this confidential cuvée marries white flowers, white-fleshed fruits, citrus and a touch of fennel. The palate is ample without heaviness, held together by a saline freshness that makes it particularly gastronome-friendly. To be served with fish in sauce, poultry or aged cheeses.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Cuvée du Papet: the estate's absolute flagship, produced for the first time in 1989 and only in the greatest vintages. Its name pays tribute to Joseph Sabon, papet meaning grandfather in Provençal. It comes from a selection of the finest plots on Montalivet, La Crau, Bois Dauphin and Pied de Baud, with a dominance of very old Grenache vines, the oldest planted in 1901, complemented by Mourvèdre and Syrah in variable proportions. Partial destemming, forty-day maceration, fermentation in concrete followed by aging predominantly in large oak vats, complemented by stainless steel tanks, demi-muids of several vintages, terracotta jars and several-wine-old barrels. The result is a wine of considerable power, sometimes exceeding 16 degrees, yet without the slightest hint of heat or over-ripeness: menthol notes, blackberry, black cherry, roasted meat, liquorice and spices, caressing tannins, a silky and unending finish. Rated 19 out of 20 by La Revue du vin de France on the 2016 vintage, it is considered one of the Châteauneuf wines most suited to long aging, with a potential of twenty years and more. Approximately one thousand cases per vintage.
Lirac Cuvée Classique Rouge: on the right bank of the Rhône, the estate produces a generous and perfectly structured Lirac, dominated by Grenache and Syrah. Red and black fruits, garrigue and soft spices compose a supple, digestible and immediately pleasing wine, endowed with the same sense of balance as the great Châteauneuf cuvées. One of the finest value-for-money wines in the range.
Lirac Cuvée Classique Blanc: a fresh and slender white wine made from the traditional grape varieties of the Southern Rhône, with white flowers, pear and citrus. Its vivacity and saline finish make it equally suited as an aperitif or a table wine, superb with shellfish, grilled fish and goat's cheese.
Lirac Cuvée Vieilles Vignes Rouge: sourced from the estate's oldest plots within the appellation, it offers greater concentration, depth and tannic structure than the Cuvée Classique, while retaining the drinkability that characterises the house. Ripe black fruits, pepper and notes of undergrowth compose a generous and refined whole.
Lirac Cuvée Marie-Jausset Rouge: a high-end single-vineyard cuvée whose name pays tribute to Marie Jausset, whose marriage to Séraphin Sabon gave birth to the estate. It is a wine of family memory as much as of terroir, dense, structured and deep, aged with the same patience as the Châteauneuf wines. A bottle for a great table, produced in limited quantities.
Lirac Cuvée Mont-Cau Rouge: a new addition to the range, sourced from an identified terroir within the appellation. It plays on freshness, precision of fruit and a pronounced minerality, in a more taut register than the other Lirac cuvées. A fine demonstration of the still underestimated potential of the right bank.
Côtes du Rhône Confluence Rouge: the estate's regional red cuvée, crafted with the same exacting standards as the prestigious appellations. Supple, fruity and spiced, it can be enjoyed from its youth alongside charcuterie, grilled meats or everyday Mediterranean cuisine.
Côtes du Rhône Blanc: a fresh and floral regional white wine, with white-fleshed fruits and citrus, a round palate and a thirst-quenching finish. An ideal introduction to the estate's white wines, at an accessible price.
La Quête, IGP Gard Rouge: a cuvée from the Gard vineyards, conceived as an exploration of lighter, sandier terroirs. The fruit is crunchy, the texture fluid and the finish saline, for a wine of immediate pleasure that can be served slightly chilled.
Rive Droite, IGP Gard Rouge: a tribute to the right bank of the Rhône, this convivial and accessible cuvée showcases bright red fruit and supple tannins. Available in both bottle and magnum, it is the estate's ultimate wine for sharing.
Farel, IGP Gard Rosé: the estate's only rosé, crafted from the estate's southern grape varieties. Fresh, fruity and perfectly dry, it favours finesse and digestibility, in the spirit of restraint that characterises the entire range.
Le Chemin du Sauvage, Vin de France Blanc: a recent creation of the estate, this white cuvée freed from the framework of appellations allows the family to explore blends and rare grape varieties from its field-blended plots. The result is an original, textured and vibrant white wine, absolutely worth discovering.
La Sabonite Rouge et Blanc, Vin de France: a wink from the Sabon family, two carefree and very approachable thirst-quenching cuvées, designed for the everyday table. The red plays on crunchy fruit and freshness, the white on vivacity and citrus. Simple, clean and moreish.
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