Le Chevet

History of Le Chevet (Laurent Billard)

Laurent Billard’s journey began far from the vineyards. Originally from the South, he settled in northern Burgundy and entered the wine business. For several years he worked in the winery alongside Nicolas Vauthier, a figure in natural wine and founder of the small wine house Vini Viti Vinci. There he learned an unadorned approach to winemaking, based on observation and respect for the grapes. One day, Nicolas offered him space and a few barrels to make his own wine. Laurent then registered his wine merchant business in Avallon in November 2015 under the trade name Le Chevet. His first vintages were released in the late 2010s, and 2019 was already his third harvest.

The estate has retained the spirit of garage wines, and Laurent plays on his nickname: every wine has “Gro” in its name. Word of mouth has spread the reputation of his wines, at natural wine fairs such as Chai l’un, chai l’autre and at tastings with Paris wine merchants. 

Terroirs and vines of Le Chevet (Laurent Billard)

Le Chevet owns no vineyards of its own. Laurent Billard personally harvests grapes from winemaker friends whose work he knows well. Most of the Southern grapes come from northern Gard, from plots farmed by David Teyssier, formerly of Domaine de Gressac. These vines are certified organic. On silty and clay-limestone soils, under the warm garrigue climate, Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault ripen fully. They produce concentrated, aromatic grapes bursting with sunshine.

More recently, Beaujolais Gamay has joined the range. It comes from vines on the plateau near Villefranche. To protect the grapes during the long journey to Avallon, Laurent invested in a refrigerated truck. The clusters thus arrive at the winery fresh and intact. This is the principle behind Le Chevet: Southern grape varieties handled with Burgundian rigor and finesse.

Winemaking at Le Chevet (Laurent Billard)

Winemaking takes place in Avallon, in Nicolas Vauthier’s winery. Laurent makes around a dozen barrels a year there, yielding four or five wines depending on the vintage. The grapes are harvested by hand and placed in tanks as whole clusters for carbonic or semi-carbonic maceration, depending on the wine. Fermentations begin with the grapes’ native yeasts, without chemical additives. This technique brings out the fruit and produces juicy, vibrant, easy-drinking wines.

The wines are then aged in older, 228-liter Burgundy barrels so the oak does not leave its mark. Aging times vary greatly from one wine to another: a few weeks for an early-release wine, up to a full year for more structured wines. The wines are neither fined nor filtered, and no sulfites are added. Bottling is done by hand. The wines are released as Vin de France, a designation that allows complete freedom to blend grapes from different origins and make wines in different styles.

The wines of Le Chevet (Laurent Billard)

Grorah: a pure Syrah made using carbonic maceration. It is aged for around twelve months in 228-liter barrels. It is the most powerful wine in the range: intense and spicy, with deep black fruit and a firm presence on the palate. This wine can be kept for a few years. It pairs very well with grilled meats and dishes in sauce.

Gronache: a Grenache made using carbonic maceration. It has an inviting texture, ripe red fruit and notes of grenadine, with lovely balance. Wine merchants appreciate its freshness, which keeps the grape’s generosity in check. It is an easy-drinking, welcoming wine.

Grocin: a Cinsault made using carbonic maceration and aged for around eight months in Burgundy barrels. This often understated grape shows remarkable vibrancy here. The wine is supple and juicy, with notes of small red berries and appealing freshness.

Grocin Primeur: the early-release version of the Cinsault. After carbonic maceration, it spends only about thirty days in barrels, kept outdoors in cool conditions. The wine is easy-drinking, with aromas of blackcurrant and redcurrant. Enjoy it young and slightly chilled, as an aperitif or with charcuterie.

Grojolais: a pure Beaujolais Gamay made into wine in Burgundy. It undergoes semi-carbonic maceration, then ages for around eight months in old Burgundy barrels. This is a light, easy-drinking red with crisp fruit and a distinct natural-wine character. It pairs well with bistro fare.

Pass’tougro: a nod to Burgundy’s Passetoutgrain and the estate’s only blend. Fermentation begins with Gamay, then Laurent adds Grenache and Syrah. The wine is then aged for around nine months in 228-liter barrels. It combines Burgundy’s liveliness with the generosity of the South and plenty of fruit. This original wine neatly captures the spirit of Le Chevet.