How to decant an aged wine? The sommelier's guide

par Didier frayssou
 

How to decant an aged wine? The sommelier's guide

You have just brought up from your cellar a bottle of Bordeaux from the 1990s or a Burgundy of more than twenty years? Before uncorking it, a crucial step is required: decanting. This sommelier's gesture can make all the difference between a memorable tasting and an irretrievably ruined bottle.

 

Key takeaway:  

  • Decanting ≠ carafe pouring: decanting serves to separate the sediment from an aged wine, whereas carafe pouring aims to oxygenate young wines.

  • A delicate and precise gesture: transfer slowly, without agitation, with a light source to stop as soon as the sediment appears.

  • To be done at the last moment: the older the wine, the shorter the decanting should be, or even immediate for very old vintages.

  • Wines concerned: in general, great red wines for ageing (Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhône) from 15–20 years presenting a sediment.

  • Mistake to absolutely avoid: excessive oxygenation can "kill" an old wine within minutes — it is better to decant too late than too early.

 

What is the decanting of an aged wine?

Decanting refers to the action of delicately transferring the contents of an aged wine bottle into a decanter, with the sole purpose of separating the clear wine from its natural sediment. Etymologically, the verb "to decant" comes from the Latin canthus, the edge or rim of a vessel — an image that perfectly illustrates this decisive passage from the neck to the decanter.

This sediment results from a natural phenomenon called phenolic precipitation: over time, tannins and pigments combine to form insoluble particles that fall to the bottom of the bottle. This natural process helps to soften the tannins, but leaves a residue which, were it to end up in the glass, would impart a very unpleasant bitter and astringent flavour.

Decanting is therefore an operation of separation, not oxygenation. That is its whole subtlety.

 

Decanting vs carafe pouring: a fundamental distinction

These two terms are often confused. Yet they share neither the same objective, nor the same technique, nor the same target.

 

 

Decanting

Carafe pouring

Objective

Separate the sediment

Aerate and oxygenate

Wines concerned

Old wines (15 years+)

Young and tannic wines

Contact with air

Minimal, to be avoided

Sought-after and prolonged

Decanter shape

Narrow neck, tapered base

Wide, flared base

Timing

At the last moment

1 to 4 hours before

Gesture

Slow, precise

Can be more lively

 

Key takeaway: an old Bordeaux or a great Burgundy is decanted, a 3-year-old Côtes-du-Rhône is carafe-poured. A very old wine can only tolerate minimal oxygenation: any excess air risks causing it to lose the delicate balance of its aromas within minutes.

 

Why should an aged wine be decanted?

1. Eliminating sediment to preserve the pleasure of the palate

The sediment present in old bottles is not dangerous, but it is deeply unpleasant on the palate: harsh flavour, grainy texture, bitter aftertaste. By separating the wine from these tannic residues, decanting allows every glass to be perfectly clear and pure.

2. Releasing suppressed aromas

After years of slumber in the cellar, a great vintage needs a gentle awakening. The simple act of transferring it into a narrow-necked decanter offers it the most infinitesimal oxygenation — just enough for its complex aromas (leather, undergrowth, spices, candied fruits) to express themselves fully.

3. Eliminating any reduction aromas

A wine long confined in its bottle may present a slight reduction (smell of sulphur or mustiness). Decanting allows it to "wake up" gradually and to dissipate these fleeting notes before serving.

 

Which wines should be decanted?

Wines that must absolutely be decanted

Decanting concerns mainly old red wines that have developed a visible sediment:

Great Bordeaux wines (Médoc, Saint-Émilion, Pomerol) from 15 to 20 years of age

Burgundies for ageing (Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, Pommard) from 15–20 years

Rhône wines (Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie, Châteauneuf-du-Pape) at maturity

• Unfiltered wines, whatever their age, if they present a sediment

 

Wines not to decant

• Very old wines (30 years and over): decant only if a visible sediment is present, at the very last moment

• Wines with delicate and volatile aromas: no need to take the risk if the sediment is minimal

• White wines: decanting is rarely beneficial for them

Champagnes and sparkling wines: decanting would cause them to lose their effervescence

 

Vins & Millésimes tip: if in doubt, always taste the wine before deciding whether to decant it. A delicate wine with no notable sediment can perfectly well be served directly from the bottle.

 

The essential equipment for decanting an aged wine

The decanting decanter: Choose a decanter with a narrow neck and tapered base, which limits the surface area of contact between the wine and the air. Season it beforehand (rinse it with a little wine) so that it is clean and odourless.

A light source: The traditional technique is that of the candle: its gentle flame allows you to see, in transparency through the neck, the progressive arrival of the sediment particles. Alternatively, the light from your phone works very well.

A quality corkscrew: To open the bottle with minimal vibration and without fragmenting the cork. Remove the capsule entirely.

A fine strainer and a funnel (optional): If the sediment is particularly abundant or if fragments of cork are present.

 

How to decant an aged wine: a step-by-step guide

Step 1: Prepare the bottle (24 to 48 hours in advance)

Stand the bottle upright in your cellar from the day before, or even 48 hours before for very old vintages. This upright position allows the sediment to slide slowly towards the bottom of the bottle. Avoid any sudden movement during these resting hours.

Step 2: Prepare your space and your decanter

Just before serving, season your decanter with a splash of wine. Place your light source within easy reach, at the level of the neck.

Step 3: Open the bottle carefully

Remove the capsule entirely and uncork without shaking the bottle. Wipe the neck with a clean cloth.

Step 4: Transfer the wine slowly and precisely

Gently tilt the bottle over the decanter, keeping the neck in front of your light source. Pour the wine in a slow, steady and continuous stream, never interrupting the flow. Do not rotate the bottle on itself.

Step 5: Monitor the arrival of the sediment

Observe the contents of the neck in transparency. As soon as you see the first dark particles approaching the neck, stop pouring immediately. It is normal to lose a few centilitres, or even more depending on the sediment, which will remain in the bottle along with the deposit.

Step 6: Stopper and serve quickly

Once the decanting is done, stopper the decanter without delay. For very old wines, serve immediately — a race against time begins as soon as the wine comes into contact with the air.

 

How long should an aged wine be left in a decanter?

• Wine aged 10 to 20 years: decant at the last moment (ideally no more than 15 to 30 minutes before serving)

• Wine aged 20 to 30 years: decant 10 to 15 minutes before, and monitor its evolution in the glass

• Wine aged 30 years and over: decant at the very moment of serving and pour immediately

 

The tip: taste a small sip at the moment of decanting, then again a few minutes later. You will sense whether the wine is opening up or whether it is already beginning to fade.

 

Mistakes to absolutely avoid

• Decanting too early: the most common and most irreversible mistake. A great old wine can be permanently extinguished within minutes of excessive exposure to air.

• Shaking or agitating the bottle before decanting: sediment put back in suspension does not settle quickly.

• Using a wide-based decanter: reserved for young wines, this shape exposes the wine to too much oxygen.

• Wanting to recover every drop: leave the cloudy sediment in the bottle without regret.

• Not seasoning the decanter: a decanter that smells musty can alter the wine's aromas.

 

 

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