How to decant an aged wine? The sommelier's guide

par Didier frayssou
 

How to decant an aged wine? The sommelier's guide

You have just brought up from your cellar a bottle of Bordeaux from the 1990s or a Burgundy of more than twenty years? Before uncorking it, one crucial step is required: decanting. This sommelier's gesture can make all the difference between a memorable tasting and an irreparably ruined bottle.

 

Key takeaway:  

  • Decanting ≠ aerating: decanting serves to separate the sediment from an aged wine, whereas aerating aims to oxygenate young wines.

  • Delicate and precise gesture: transfer slowly, without agitation, using a light source to stop as soon as sediment appears.

  • To be done at the last moment: the older the wine, the shorter the decanting should be — even immediate for very old vintages.

  • Wines concerned: generally the great age-worthy reds (Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhône) from 15–20 years old presenting sediment.

  • Mistake to absolutely avoid: excessive oxygenation can "kill" an old wine within minutes — it is better to decant too late than too early.

 

What is the decanting of an aged wine?

Decanting refers to the action of gently transferring the contents of a bottle of aged wine into a decanter, with the sole purpose of separating the clear wine from its natural sediment. Etymologically, the verb "to decant" comes from the Latin canthus, meaning the rim or edge of a vessel — an image that perfectly illustrates this decisive passage from the neck into the decanter.

This sediment results from a natural phenomenon called phenolic precipitation: over time, tannins and pigments combine to form insoluble particles that fall to the bottom of the bottle. This natural process contributes to softening the tannins, but leaves a residue which, if it were to end up in the glass, would impart a very unpleasant bitter and astringent flavour.

Decanting is therefore an operation of separation, not oxygenation. That is its entire subtlety.

 

Decanting vs. aerating: a fundamental distinction

These two terms are often confused. Yet they share neither the same purpose, nor the same technique, nor the same target wines.

 

 

Decanting

Aerating

Purpose

Separate the sediment

Aerate and oxygenate

Wines concerned

Aged wines (15 years+)

Young, tannic wines

Contact with air

Minimal, to be avoided

Sought-after and prolonged

Decanter shape

Narrow neck, tapered base

Wide, flared base

Timing

At the last moment

1 to 4 hours in advance

Gesture

Slow, precise

Can be more lively

 

Key takeaway: an aged Bordeaux or a great Burgundy should be decanted, a three-year-old Côtes-du-Rhône should be aerated. A very old wine can only tolerate the most minimal oxygenation: any excess air risks causing it to lose the delicate balance of its aromas within minutes.

 

Why should an aged wine be decanted?

1. Eliminating sediment to preserve the tasting pleasure

The sediment present in old bottles is not dangerous, but it is deeply unpleasant on the palate: harsh flavour, grainy texture, bitter aftertaste. By separating the wine from these tannic residues, decanting ensures that every glass is perfectly clear and pure.

2. Releasing muted aromas

After years of slumber in the cellar, a great vintage needs a gentle awakening. The simple act of transferring it into a narrow-necked decanter offers it the most minimal oxygenation — just enough for its complex aromas (leather, undergrowth, spices, candied fruit) to express themselves fully.

3. Eliminating any reduction odours

A wine that has been confined in its bottle for a long time may present a slight reduction (sulphurous or musty smell). Decanting allows it to gradually "wake up" and dissipate these fleeting notes before serving.

 

Which wines should be decanted?

Wines that must absolutely be decanted

Decanting primarily concerns aged red wines that have developed visible sediment:

Great Bordeaux (Médoc, Saint-Émilion, Pomerol) from 15 to 20 years of age

Age-worthy Burgundies (Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, Pommard) from 15–20 years old

Rhône wines (Hermitage, Côte-Rôtie, Châteauneuf-du-Pape) at peak maturity

• Unfiltered wines, regardless of age, if they present sediment

 

Wines not to decant

• Very old wines (30 years and over): decant only if sediment is visible, at the very last moment

• Wines with delicate and volatile aromas: there is no point in taking the risk if the sediment is minimal

• White wines: decanting rarely benefits them

Champagnes and sparkling wines: decanting would cause them to lose their effervescence

 

Vins & Millésimes tip: when in doubt, always taste the wine before deciding to decant it. A fragile wine with no notable sediment can very well be served directly from the bottle.

 

Essential equipment for decanting an aged wine

The decanting carafe: Choose a decanter with a narrow neck and a tapered base, which limits the surface area of contact between the wine and the air. Season it beforehand (rinse it with a little wine) so that it is clean and odourless.

A light source: The traditional technique is that of the candle: its gentle flame makes it possible to see, in transparency through the neck, the progressive arrival of sediment particles. Alternatively, the light from your phone works very well.

A quality corkscrew: To open the bottle with minimal vibration and without fragmenting the cork. Remove the capsule entirely.

A fine strainer and a funnel (optional): If the sediment is particularly abundant or if fragments of cork are present.

 

How to decant an aged wine: a step-by-step guide

Step 1: Prepare the bottle (24 to 48 hours in advance)

Stand the bottle upright in your cellar from the day before, or even 48 hours ahead for very old vintages. This upright position allows the sediment to slowly slide down to the bottom of the bottle. Avoid any sudden movements during these resting hours.

Step 2: Prepare your space and your decanter

Just before serving, season your decanter with a splash of wine. Place your light source within reach, at the level of the neck.

Step 3: Open the bottle with care

Remove the capsule entirely and uncork without shaking the bottle. Wipe the neck with a clean cloth.

Step 4: Transfer the wine slowly and precisely

Tilt the bottle gently over the decanter, keeping the neck in front of your light source. Pour the wine in a slow, steady, and continuous stream, never interrupting the flow. Do not rotate the bottle on itself.

Step 5: Monitor the arrival of the sediment

Observe the contents of the neck in transparency. As soon as you see the first dark particles approaching the neck, stop pouring immediately. It is normal to lose a few centilitres, or even more depending on the sediment, which will remain in the bottle along with the deposit.

Step 6: Stopper and serve promptly

Once decanting is complete, stopper the decanter without delay. For very old wines, serve immediately — a race against time begins the moment the wine comes into contact with air.

 

How long should an aged wine be left in a decanter?

• Wine aged 10 to 20 years: decant at the last moment (ideally no more than 15 to 30 minutes before serving)

• Wine aged 20 to 30 years: decant 10 to 15 minutes in advance, and monitor its evolution in the glass

• Wine aged 30 years and over: decant at the very moment of serving and pour immediately

 

The tip: taste a small sip at the time of decanting, then again a few minutes later. You will sense whether the wine is opening up or whether it is already beginning to fade.

 

Mistakes to absolutely avoid

• Decanting too early: the most frequent and most irreversible mistake. A Fine Wine can fade away permanently within just a few minutes of excessive exposure to air.

• Shaking or agitating the bottle before decanting: sediment put back in suspension does not settle quickly.

• Using a wide-based decanter: reserved for young wines, this shape exposes the wine to too much oxygen.

• Wanting to recover every last drop: leave the cloudy residue at the bottom of the bottle without regret.

• Not seasoning the decanter: a decanter that smells musty can alter the wine's aromas.

 

 

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