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At the heart of the Haut-Rouergue, on the vertiginous foothills of the Aubrac plateau, in the commune of Campouriez in Aveyron, Nicolas Carmarans embodies one of the finest living signatures of the natural South-West. Grandson of a bougnat originally from the Aubrac, former emblematic owner of the Café de la Nouvelle Mairie in Paris (a standard-bearer for natural wine in the capital as early as 1994), he settled in 2003 in his native Aveyron and has devoted himself entirely to viticulture since 2007. Alongside his wife Biba, he now cultivates around 4 hectares of vines planted on the steep terraces overlooking the Truyère and the Selves, using organic farming. Fer Servadou (Mansois), Negret de Banhars, Chenin, Pinot Noir and Gamay express themselves through his emblematic cuvées (Mauvais Temps, Fer de Sang, Maximus, Selves), mouth-watering, fresh and deeply easy to drink.
The story of Nicolas Carmarans is one of a return to his roots. Born into a family of winemakers from the Aubrac who were forced to leave their native land for Paris during the great rural exodus of the 1930s, Nicolas grew up immersed in the world of natural wine. His father ran a bougnat bistro in Paris where he was already, ahead of his time, championing the wines of Marcel Lapierre, the absolute pioneer of French natural wine. Following in his father's footsteps, Nicolas opened his own establishment in 1994, the celebrated Café de la Nouvelle Mairie in the 5th arrondissement of Paris, which quickly became the standard-bearer of living wine in the capital.
But the desire to be in direct contact with the land ultimately prevailed. The couple then embarked on a five-year transition period, between Paris and the Aveyron, to be sure of their choice. One thing is to sell wine and speak of it with passion; another is to make it. The definitive change came in 2003, when Nicolas settled with a few ares in Campouriez, on his family's native land, a few kilometres from the village of Carmarans that bears his name. He initially continued to work as a wine merchant and restaurateur in parallel, then definitively handed over the Café de la Nouvelle Mairie in 2007 to devote himself full-time to his new life as a winemaker. More than twenty years later, he has no regrets: his cuvées, created together with Biba, bring joy to lovers of natural wines and are now among the most sought-after in the Aveyron.
The vineyard of Nicolas Carmarans now extends over 4 hectares, located in Campouriez and the surrounding area, on the steep hillsides overlooking the Truyère and its tributary the Selves, at altitudes reaching 250 metres and beyond. The soils are of great geological richness: granite sands typical of the Aubrac, schists, red sandstone and limestone scree (notably on the Marcillac plots). The slopes are so vertiginous that the vines can only be worked with a tracked vehicle, and sometimes even with a winch on the most extreme rows. Heroic viticulture, a testimony to the precious viticultural heritage of the Haut-Rouergue.
The grape varieties are dominated by the local South-West varieties, Fer Servadou (known locally as Mansois and Braucol in the Tarn), and the very rare Negret de Banhars, an indigenous variety that Nicolas is one of the last to maintain. The couple also cultivates a few rows of Chenin Blanc, Gamay, Pinot Noir and Cabernets, planted by themselves between 10 and 20 years ago. A few plots of older vines (up to 70 years old) are leased from winemaker friends in Marcillac. The estate has been farmed organically from the outset, with no pesticides or chemicals, with intense manual work using a pickaxe and backpack sprayer on the steepest slopes. Initially, Nicolas had planted better-known grape varieties (Gamay, Pinot Noir, Chenin) out of concern about the rusticity of the Fer Servadou, but it was ultimately the latter that proved itself as the best suited to the terroir.
In the cellar, Nicolas and Biba practise deliberately gentle and minimalist winemaking, faithful to the natural philosophy they have championed since their beginnings in Paris. Harvesting is entirely manual, with rigorous sorting in the vineyard. For the reds, the grapes are vinified as whole bunches, using semi-carbonic or carbonic maceration, over relatively short durations (10 to 16 days depending on the cuvée), in order to preserve the fruit, freshness and digestibility of the wine. Fermentations are conducted solely with the indigenous yeasts native to the grapes, with no additions whatsoever.
The whites are pressed directly, with a light overnight settling, then fermented and aged in old oak barrels, generally demi-muids, to preserve the purity of the fruit. The reds are also aged in old barrels so as not to mark the wines. No fining and no filtration is carried out, and the use of sulphur is reduced to a strict minimum, or even completely absent in certain cuvées. The result is a unique signature: fresh, fine, straight and ultra-digestible wines, with splendid aromatics and a sparkling mouthfeel, which reveal all the singularity of the Aveyron terroir. A natural signature that places Nicolas Carmarans among the greatest addresses of the contemporary South-West.
Mauvais Temps: the estate's signature and flagship cuvée, crafted from Fer Servadou, historically sometimes complemented by Negret de Banhars and Cabernet Franc, now often as a single-varietal wine. Sourced from old Fer Servadou vines from Marcillac (50 years old) on red clay terroirs at the foot of the hillside. Semi-carbonic maceration vinification, aged in old barrels. Ruby colour, fresh and mentholated nose over ripe fruit and spices, a slightly more structured and fuller palate than Fer de Sang, with a mineral backbone, velvety texture and a salivating finish. A food wine of superb balance.
Fer de Sang: single-plot cuvée crafted from 100% Fer Servadou sourced from very old vines (70 years) on beautiful limestone scree terroirs at the top of the hillside in Marcillac, at approximately 250 metres altitude. 10-day carbonic maceration in fibre tanks, 7 months of ageing in old barrels. Brilliant colour, very expressive nose of red fruits (raspberry) and mentholated freshness, with nuances of leather, smoke and tar. Salivating, deep and velvety palate, with a mineral and spicy signature and a blood orange character. A true terroir wine, ultra-digestible, ideal with poultry, duck breast, pork or vegetarian dishes.
Maximus: red cuvée in IGP Aveyron, crafted from 100% Fer Servadou sourced from vines aged 20 to 50 years planted on red sandstone soils. 16-day carbonic maceration using whole bunches, aged in old barrels. Ruby colour, crunchy and fruity nose, palate with a slightly more structured and rounded profile than Fer de Sang, yet remaining delicate and digestible. Spicy and salivating finish. An exceptional Aveyronnais natural wine, often presented as the Maximus of the range for its contained power.
Minimus: a complementary red cuvée in the range, crafted in the same natural spirit but in a lighter and more immediate style. A fresh, vibrant wine with a pure and thirst-quenching signature, perfect for lovers of easy-drinking wines with an assured character.
Selves: the estate's signature white cuvée, crafted from 100% Chenin Blanc sourced from vines planted by Nicolas 10 to 20 years ago, on beautiful granite and schist terroirs overlooking the Selves. Vinified and aged in demi-muid for one year. Pale golden colour, ample, velvety, aromatic nose with floral notes (peach blossom) and white fruit, with a fresh mineral dimension typical of the terroir. Ample, balanced palate with a gastronomic finish. A fine gastronomic wine to open over a festive meal, with delicate fish or poultry.
Chenin/Aligoté: an original cuvée in Vin de France, an atypical blend of 50% Chenin Blanc sourced from the estate's vines and 50% Aligoté purchased from a Mâconnais winemaker, which justifies its classification as Vin de France rather than IGP Aveyron. Separate direct pressing, overnight settling, fermentation and ageing in old oak barrels. Pale colour, fresh nose, a distinctive palate derived from the combination of these two exciting grape varieties. A bold rarity with a singular signature.
Negret de Banhars: an extremely rare cuvée, crafted from the Negret de Banhars grape variety, an indigenous Aveyron variety on the verge of extinction, of which Nicolas is one of the last guardians. Vinified in the pure natural spirit of the estate. A cuvée of memory, a precious testimony to the living viticultural heritage of the South-West, sought after by knowledgeable enthusiasts and lovers of forgotten grape varieties.
Pinot Noir: red cuvée in IGP Aveyron, crafted from Pinot Noir planted by Nicolas in his early years. Gentle vinification, aged in old barrels. Clear ruby colour, floral and fruity nose with notes of red fruits, fluid, fresh and elegant palate. An unexpected Aveyronnais expression of the great Burgundian grape variety.
Gamay: a confidential red cuvée crafted from Gamay planted in Campouriez. Whole-bunch carbonic maceration, in the pure tradition of easy-drinking wines. Purple colour, fruity and joyful nose, thirst-quenching palate, with a digestible signature. A generous pleasure wine, faithful to the spirit of the Café de la Nouvelle Mairie.
Cabernet Franc: a complementary red cuvée in IGP Aveyron, crafted from Cabernet Franc planted by Nicolas in his early years. A precise and fresh Aveyronnais expression of the great Loire and Bordeaux grape variety, which completes the bold mosaic cultivated by the Carmarans couple in Campouriez.
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