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Among the most celebrated classifications in the world of wine, that of the Crus Classés de Sauternes of 1855 holds a singular place. Commissioned by Emperor Napoleon III for the Paris Universal Exhibition, it consecrates exceptional sweet wines born of a natural phenomenon unique in the world: noble rot. At its pinnacle stands the legendary Château d'Yquem, the sole Premier Cru Supérieur in all of Bordeaux.
To remember:
On 18 April 1855, at the request of Emperor Napoleon III, the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce mandated the Syndicat des Courtiers de Commerce to establish an official classification of the finest wines of the Gironde, in order to present them at the Paris Universal Exhibition. These brokers, ministerial officers appointed by decree, drew on their archives, their tasting notes and the prices prevailing on the market — a faithful reflection, at the time, of the renown and quality of the estates.
For red wines, only the crus of the Médoc (and Château Haut-Brion) were included, divided into five categories. For sweet white wines, only the châteaux of Sauternes and Barsac were classified, in just three hierarchical levels — a more concise and readable structure than that of the Médoc.
A remarkable fact: unlike the red wine classification, this classification has never been revised since 1855. It is still considered today as an absolute reference in the world of sweet wines, and the châteaux it consecrates continue to embody the excellence of the Sauternes vineyard.
The 1855 Sauternes classification distinguishes 27 châteaux spread across the AOC Sauternes and Barsac, organised into three levels. Among them, 18 belong to the Sauternes appellation and 9 to the Barsac appellation (which may market its wines under both designations).
|
Level |
Number |
Châteaux |
|
Premier Cru Supérieur |
1 |
Château d'Yquem |
|
Premiers Crus Classés |
11 |
Ch. Climens, Ch. Coutet, Ch. Guiraud, Ch. Lafaurie-Peyraguey, Ch. Rabaud-Promis, Ch. de Rayne-Vigneau, Ch. Rieussec, Ch. Sigalas-Rabaud, Ch. Suduiraut, Ch. La Tour Blanche, Clos Haut-Peyraguey |
|
Deuxièmes Crus Classés |
15 |
Ch. d'Arche, Ch. Broustet, Ch. Caillou, Ch. Doisy-Daëne, Ch. Doisy-Dubroca, Ch. Doisy-Védrines, Ch. Filhot, Ch. Lamothe, Ch. Lamothe-Guignard, Ch. de Malle, Ch. de Myrat, Ch. Nairac, Ch. Romer, Ch. Romer du Hayot, Ch. Suau |
To remember: in total, the 1855 classification includes 1 Premier Cru Supérieur, 11 Premiers Crus Classés and 15 Deuxièmes Crus Classés, totalling 27 châteaux, spread across the two appellations of Sauternes and Barsac.
At the pinnacle of the hierarchy stands Château d'Yquem, the property of the Lur-Saluces family for more than four centuries before being acquired in the majority by the LVMH group in 1999 (following an initial acquisition of a majority stake in 1996). Its unique distinction as Premier Cru Supérieur — a title shared by no other white wine in the world within the 1855 classification — reflects an excellence recognised for centuries.
According to legend, in 1859, the brother of the Tsar of Russia, Grand Duke Constantine, paid 20,000 francs per barrel for a 1847 Yquem — a price four to five times higher than that of Latour or Margaux. This historical anecdote illustrates better than any speech the unique place Yquem already held in the imagination of connoisseurs.
The Yquem vineyard is divided into numerous plots with varying aspects, where harvesters may pass up to eleven times per season to select, berry by berry, the perfectly botrytised grapes. Production is deliberately very limited: in some years, only one glass of wine is produced per vine. Only years deemed perfect give rise to a bottle marketed under the Yquem label; the estate would rather produce nothing than disappoint.
The Sauternes appellation covers a delimited area of approximately 2,900 hectares, of which approximately 1,400 to 1,700 hectares are under vine production depending on the vintage and recent INAO data, spread across five communes: Sauternes, Fargues, Bommes, Preignac and Barsac. This vineyard benefits from an exceptional microclimate, inseparable from a unique geographical phenomenon: the confluence of the Garonne and the Ciron.
The Ciron is a small tributary with cold waters that flows into the still-warm Garonne in autumn. This difference in temperature produces each morning thick, humid mists that envelop the vineyards. By midday, the sun dissipates these fogs and dries the grapes. It is this daily alternation — morning humidity, afternoon heat and dryness — that creates the ideal conditions for the development of the fungus Botrytis cinerea, the famous noble rot.
The soils of the Sauternais consist primarily of gravel, clay and limestone on gently elevated ridges that ensure optimal natural drainage. These soils allow for slow and even ripening of the grapes, essential for the concentration of sugars and aromas.
Barsac is distinguished by its calcaires à astéries (star-shaped limestone), which lend its wines a more pronounced minerality and freshness. Enthusiasts who prefer lighter, more lively sweet wines will gravitate toward the châteaux of Barsac; those seeking richness and opulence will find their pleasure among the crus at the heart of Sauternes.
Botrytis cinerea is a microscopic fungus that, under precise climatic conditions, attacks ripe grapes by perforating their skin. In doing so, it causes the water within the berry to evaporate, thereby naturally concentrating the sugars, glycerols and aromas. The result is a juice of exceptional richness and aromatic complexity.
This phenomenon is capricious and unpredictable: it does not develop evenly every year. In some seasons, the conditions are not met and botrytis does not appear, or appears too irregularly. In such cases, some producers may choose not to claim the Sauternes appellation, preferring not to market a wine that would not live up to their reputation.
It is this natural irregularity that explains the considerable differences in quality between vintages and the rarity of great years. In an exceptional vintage such as 2001 or 2009, a single vine may yield no more than one glass of wine. This is also what justifies the high price of great Sauternes: each bottle is the fruit of considerable manual labour and a natural phenomenon that can neither be reproduced nor anticipated.
A remarkable fact: in the greatest years for Sauternes, harvesters may have to make up to eleven successive passes over the same vine to select perfectly botrytised grapes, one by one.
The grape varieties of Sauternes
The wines of Sauternes are produced from three white grape varieties, the proportions of which vary according to the château and the vintage.
|
Grape variety |
Share in the blend |
Aromatic & gustatory role |
|
Sémillon |
70 – 80 % |
Unctuous texture, honey, candied apricot, beeswax. The key variety for botrytisation. |
|
Sauvignon Blanc |
20 – 25 % |
Freshness, acidity, citrus, exotic fruits. Balances the richness of Sémillon. |
|
Muscadelle |
< 5 % |
Floral notes, fresh grape, aromatic complexity. Used in very small proportions. |
Sémillon is by far the dominant grape variety. Its thin skin makes it particularly susceptible to Botrytis cinerea, encouraging rapid and even botrytisation, and its natural sensitivity to noble rot makes it the ideal variety for producing great sweet wines. Sauvignon Blanc contributes the freshness and acidity essential for balance. Muscadelle, used in very small proportions, adds a floral and exotic touch to the blend.
The eleven Premiers Crus Classés of Sauternes represent the elite of Bordeaux sweet wines, just behind the sovereign Yquem. Each offers a singular interpretation of the Sauternais terroir.
Owned by the Rothschild group (also owner of Château Lafite), Rieussec produces a Sauternes of great aromatic richness, marked by candied fruits, vanilla and remarkable opulence. It ranks among the most consistent crus in the appellation.
Unanimously recognised as one of the greatest wines of Sauternes, Château Suduiraut captivates with its crystalline finesse, its floral complexity and its exceptional ageing potential. The estate, part of whose vineyard borders Yquem, benefits from a terroir that is remarkable in every respect.
A Premier Cru Classé converted to organic farming, Château Guiraud embodies the modernity of the Sauternais: its wines combine the traditional richness of great sweet wines with a freshness and aromatic precision that appeal to a new generation of enthusiasts.
Located in the Barsac appellation, Château Climens is often referred to as the "Yquem of Barsac". Its wines are made from 100% Sémillon, a rarity in the appellation. The wines are distinguished by their mineral finesse, their freshness and their exceptional capacity for evolution over several decades.
The vintage is an even more decisive selection criterion in Sauternes than in any other Bordeaux appellation, as everything depends on the presence and quality of botrytis cinerea in that particular year.
• 1988 - 1989 – 1990: the legendary trilogy — three consecutive years of exceptional quality, considered a climatic miracle
• 2001: the vintage of the century for many, perfect concentration, flawless sugar/acidity balance, wines of exceptional longevity
• 2005: richness and power, remarkable aromatic complexity, assured ageing potential of 30 years and more
• 2009: solar opulence, generous sweetness, already very expressive in its youth
• 2011: a vintage of freshness and elegance; some tasters find a finesse comparable to 2001
• 2013: against all expectations, an exceptional vintage thanks to a perfect autumn for botrytisation
• 2015 – 2016: two years of excellent quality, full-bodied and well-balanced wines
Advice from Vins & Millésimes: Sauternes reach their peak between 15 and 40 years depending on the château and the vintage. Do not open them too early — patience is the foremost virtue of the great sweet wine enthusiast.
Serve your Sauternes between 9 and 11°C: cool enough to preserve its freshness and acidity, but not too cold so as not to crush its complex aromas. Avoid serving it ice-cold — that would be doing it a disservice.
The iconic pairing remains foie gras, whether pan-fried, in terrine or accompanied by a fruit chutney. The richness of foie gras and the unctuousness of Sauternes respond to each other in perfect harmony. Sauternes also pairs wonderfully with:
• Blue-veined cheeses: Roquefort, Bleu d'Auvergne, Gorgonzola
• Desserts featuring yellow or exotic fruits: Tarte Tatin, crème brûlée, roasted pineapple
• Shellfish and fish in rich sauces: roasted lobster, sole meunière, langoustine curry
• Exotic cuisine: Thai curry, prawn wok with coconut milk
Older Sauternes, with their aromas of amber honey, saffron and gentle spices, can even accompany main courses: roasted poultry with figs, lacquered duck breast, calf's liver with grapes. An unexpected pairing can sometimes produce the greatest emotions.
Exceptional longevity. The great Sauternes rank among the most age-worthy wines in the world. Thanks to their high residual sugar content and vibrant acidity, they can be kept and reach ever greater heights over several decades — indeed more than a century for the greatest vintages of Yquem.
A classification unchanged since 1855. Unlike the Saint-Émilion classification, which is revised every ten years, that of Sauternes has never changed since its creation. This stability is a guarantee for collectors and a reliable benchmark for enthusiasts in search of safe values.
A confidential production. With a maximum authorised yield of only 25 hl/ha (compared to 45 hl/ha for a standard white Bordeaux) and manual harvesting in successive tries, the volumes produced are naturally limited. This structural scarcity supports prices over the long term and makes these wines true collectibles.
An incomparable terroir. The microclimate of the Ciron, the confluence of the Garonne and the gravelly-limestone soils of the Sauternais combine to form an ensemble that cannot be replicated anywhere else in the world. It is an absolute uniqueness that underpins the timeless value of these wines.
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