Tasted & Approved - September 2024

par Anne-claire weyne
 

WHITE WINES

 

 

Les Nouvelles Thomas Popy

A gem from the Jura! This very discreet winemaker produces outstanding wines that are quite rare on the market… Like the man himself, information about the estate and its wines is hard to come by. If you come across them, don’t hesitate. 

He owes much of his success to Jean-Claude Lapalu in Beaujolais and Pierre Overnoy in the Jura, with whom he honed his skills. 

Today, he farms 2 hectares of vines (Chardonnay and Savagnin) across some beautiful terroirs in Montigny-lès-Arsures, Pupillin, Arbois and Mesnay. 

He produces cuvées using natural methods. The wines are aged in the small family cellar, first in tanks and then in old barrels, without filtration or additives. 

This Savagnin was a knockout! Beautifully focused, with lovely minerality and aromas of nuts and dried fruit. We loved it as an aperitif with a little cheese. 

 

Montcalmès Chenin Blanc 2021

As you’ve probably gathered, we’re already big fans of the classic red cuvée from the superb Domaine Montcalmès in the Languedoc. So we simply had to try the Chenin. It’s lovely! Fermentation takes place in barrels and demi-muids—oak casks larger than standard barrels—used to help integrate the oak during the two years of aging that follow. It’s a success! 

The wine shows no oak character: it’s quite full-bodied and rich, but not woody. Notes of fresh white fruit and lovely floral touches. 

A beautifully crafted Chenin: a great white from the Terrasses du Larzac, made from this wonderful Loire grape variety. 

 

Thomas Batardière - Grand Clos 2022 Magnum 

Another beautiful Chenin and a new cuvée from Thomas Batardière! A Vin de France bottled only in magnums, with just 600 produced. 

A lovely fruity, floral Chenin made with very few additives. Pure, clear and thoroughly enjoyable! 

 

 

 

 

Double Zéro - Bourgogne Aligoté 

A superb small-scale wine merchant operation in Burgundy!

The nose opens with appealing reductive notes and a subtle lactic touch. Mineral and tropical fruit notes emerge, adding an exotic dimension, followed by hints of vanilla and butter. A delicate herbal touch of thyme adds further complexity. On the palate, the wine is vibrant, with lovely acidity. 

 

Alain Graillot - Crozes Hermitage White 2020

Another excellent wine from Alain Graillot! We know the red well, but the white Crozes Hermitage is worth trying too! Made from 80% Marsanne and 20% Roussanne, it ferments in barrels (20% new oak) and stainless steel tanks. Citrus on the nose, then a fresh, taut and very elegant palate with lovely acidity; it’s even better after a little time to open up. Perfect as an aperitif or with fish! 

 

François de Nicolay - Bourgogne Aligoté 2020

Produced by the négociant operation of Chandon de Briailles, this wine uses grapes exclusively from certified organic or biodynamic vines. The wines receive minimal sulfites and are made at the estate in Savigny les Beaune!

A lovely Aligoté that feels fresh and vibrant from the first sip. The nose offers an enticing bouquet of apple and white flowers, lifted by mineral notes and subtle hints of vanilla and butter. That lively freshness carries through to the palate, balanced by a slightly rich texture that lends a little roundness. 

 

 

 

 

 RED WINES 

 

La Guiraude Crozes Hermitage 2009 - Magnum 

Alain Graillot’s flagship cuvée from the Crozes Hermitage appellation!

The elegant nose combines smoky notes with black pepper aromas and subtle herbal touches. On the palate, the wine reveals structure supported by lovely acidity and fine tannins. Classic Syrah aromas of dark fruit, olive and pepper come through. Though already mature, everything points to excellent aging potential in the years ahead.

 

Claire Naudin Orchis Mascula 2019

This is a wonderfully drinkable wine! The nose is highly fragrant and floral. Lightly extracted and fresh in style, it has lovely suppleness and balance on the palate. 

As always with Claire Naudin’s wines, her style leaves no one indifferent!

 

Rayas 2011

Just WOW! We won’t forget this one! 

For many of us, this was our first Rayas—and it was truly excellent. 

Ripe fruit, spice, garrigue, a touch of well-integrated whole-cluster character and Emmanuel Reynaud’s unmistakable touch: it’s delicious. Complex and delicately infused, it’s a real treat! 

The most illustrious of Châteauneuf du Pape wines remains unconventional! Its distinctive character comes from several factors and techniques: 100% Grenache from north-facing sandy soils where the vines thrive, whole-cluster fermentation and aging in old large oak casks… The result is a breathtaking fine wine, with Burgundian elegance, incredible complexity and a seemingly endless finish. 

A wine to taste at least once in your life—after giving it several hours to open up! 

 

 

   

 

 

Mas Jullien 2002

Despite its 22 years, this Mas Jullien has lost none of its freshness! Tertiary notes of tobacco and forest floor naturally dominate the nose, but the wine retains a lovely thread of acidity that makes it a pleasure to drink. There’s no heaviness; you barely notice the 13.5% alcohol! Time has softened the tannins, and the finish is very long. 

 

Mouton Rothschild 1988

A perfect dinner with this 1988 Mouton Rothschild and a barbecued rib steak! 

An outstanding Pauillac and one of Bordeaux’s First Growths on the Left Bank! It’s easy to see why. 

We waited 36 years to discover this magnificent structure, still full of power and depth! Aromas of spice, tobacco, smoke, cooked fruit, coffee and mocha… Lovely intensity and complexity that linger through the finish. 

Even if this is not one of the Château’s best vintages, it’s a pleasure to taste! 

Another wine to taste at least once in your life! 

 

Casanova Di Neri 2009 - Brunello di Montalcino 

The rib steak continued in wonderful company, this time with a wine from Italy. 

After several hours in a decanter, this Brunello di Montalcino won us all over! It was a firm favorite around the table. 

Cherry and violet on the nose, remarkable elegance and finesse on the palate, a lingering finish, balance and generous aromas… This exceptional Sangiovese is a delight! 

 

 

 

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