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Must-See Châteaux |
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A true jewel of the Greek wine world, Domaine Hatzidakis has been showcasing the Assyrtiko grape on the volcanic island of Santorini since 1997. Founded by Haridimos Hatzidakis — nicknamed the magician of Santorini — and his wife Konstantina, this cellar carved into the rock was the first on the island to convert to organic farming. Ungrafted vines trained in the traditional basket shape, indigenous yeasts, unfiltered wines: every cuvée expresses with purity the unique minerality and salinity of the Santorini terroir.
The story of Domaine Hatzidakis began in 1996, when Konstantina Chryssou showed her husband, Haridimos Hatzidakis, her family’s vines in Pyrgos Kallistis, abandoned since the 1956 earthquake. Originally from Crete and then head enologist at Boutari’s winery on Santorini, the passionate winemaker discovered a tiny cave there—a kanava—which he turned into a winery. The first bottles appeared in the late 1990s: an Assyrtiko Santorini and a Mavrotragano, the first wines from an estate destined to become a global benchmark.
A visionary pioneer, Haridimos Hatzidakis was the first on the island to farm organically, vinify wines by individual vineyard plot, use indigenous yeasts, and bottle his wines without filtration. He made Santorini’s first single-vineyard Assyrtiko and one of its first Mavrotragano wines, saving this rare red grape variety from obscurity. After his untimely death in 2017, he left the estate in the hands of his family: his wife Konstantina and his children, including his eldest, Stella, now carry on his philosophy alongside a team of enologists faithful to his legacy.
The terroir of Domaine Hatzidakis is among the most distinctive in the world. On the island of Santorini in the Cyclades, its organically farmed vineyards cover around 10 hectares between the villages of Pyrgos Kallistis, Megalochori, Emporio, and Akrotiri, at elevations ranging from 70 to 350 meters. The volcanic soils, composed of ash, pumice, lava, and sand, contain almost no clay. This has protected the island from phylloxera and allowed ungrafted vines to survive, some of them several centuries old.
To withstand strong winds, the vines are trained using the ancestral kouloura method, coiled into basket shapes close to the ground. The Meltemi, a northerly wind that cools summer nights, preserves the grapes’ acidity and limits disease, allowing viticulture with almost no treatments. This mineral-rich, saline land is home to the island’s native grape varieties: the white Assyrtiko, Aidani, and Athiri, and the red Mavrotragano, Mandilaria, and Voudomato.
At Domaine Hatzidakis, winemaking builds on the work done in the vineyard, with the utmost respect for the grapes. Harvesting takes place by hand in August, and the grapes are cooled before gentle pressing. Fermentation begins solely with native yeasts, at controlled temperatures and without chemical additives. The wines are never filtered and receive only a minimal amount of sulfur, allowing time to do its work.
Depending on the cuvée, the wines are aged in stainless steel tanks to preserve freshness and tension, or in oak barrels for the more structured wines, often with extended time on the lees. The sweet wines follow Santorini tradition: the grapes are dried in the sun for about two weeks before prolonged barrel aging, sometimes for several years, to produce Vinsanto and the island’s other nectar-like wines.
The white wines, led by Assyrtiko, are the foundation of the estate’s reputation. Santorini Familia, its signature cuvée aged in stainless steel, expresses the island’s minerality and salinity; its name pays tribute to the partner growers considered part of the family. Cuvée No 15, an Assyrtiko from the first certified organic plots, captivates with its finesse. Skitali, a symbol of the torch passed to the Hatzidakis children, combines extended aging on the lees with time in barrel and is also made in a rare Skitali Barrel version. Rampelia, a single-vineyard wine with a mineral backbone, and the venerable old-vine Assyrtiko de Mylos and Assyrtiko de Louros explore Santorini’s micro-terroirs. Nykteri, a late-harvest Assyrtiko aged in barrel, and Aidani, an aromatic white with honeysuckle notes, complete the range.
The estate also offers a rosé and a red full of character. Rosette, made from whole-cluster-pressed Mandilaria, has a vivid pink color, cherry and raspberry fruit, and a dry finish. Mavrotragano, the rare red grape variety saved by Haridimos Hatzidakis, produces a concentrated, deep wine aged for 18 months in barrel, with fine tannins and aromas of dark fruit. It is often compared to the great reds of Piedmont.
Finally, the sweet wines carry on a winemaking tradition thousands of years old. Vinsanto, the estate’s jewel, is made predominantly from sun-dried Assyrtiko and aged in barrel for around 20 years. It offers exceptional richness, with fig, apricot, and candied citrus balanced by vibrant acidity. Voudomato, a rare sweet red made from the grape variety of the same name, and Liassimo, a Mandilaria nectar made using a solera system with several vintages, complete this collection of Santorini sweet wines.
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