Waris Larmandier

The History of Waris Larmandier

The story of Waris Larmandier is that of two Champagne families whose lineages merged to give birth to an exceptional estate. The Larmandier family has had roots in the Côte des Blancs since the 18th century, established in Cramant, while the Waris family originates from Finland and settled in Avize five generations ago. It was in 1989 that Marie-Hélène Larmandier, heir to this long winemaking tradition, and her husband Vincent Waris officially founded the estate as a récoltant-manipulant, in their village of Avize. Following Vincent's untimely death in 2000, Marie-Hélène took sole control of the estate, managing the family business while raising their three children, patiently building up the clientele and the identity of the cuvées.

From 2010 onwards, the new generation gradually took over. Jean-Philippe, the eldest son, chose to train not in university lecture halls but alongside the region's finest winemakers, notably Benoît Lahaye in Bouzy, a pioneer of biodynamics in Champagne. Upon returning to the estate, he made the complete conversion of the vineyard to biodynamic farming a condition of his involvement. His brother Pierre-Louis, an architect, and his sister Inès, a designer and sculptor, joined the venture, together forming the "racines de trois" — the three roots — of the estate. This creative trio and their shared values, at the crossroads of art and nature, propelled Waris Larmandier into a new dimension. The Demeter biodynamic certification was obtained in 2020, crowning ten years of effort and conviction.

Terroirs and Vines of Waris Larmandier

The Waris Larmandier vineyard extends over approximately 9 hectares, divided into some thirty parcels with very distinct profiles. Its principal anchor lies at the heart of the Côte des Blancs, in the Grand Cru classified villages of Chouilly, Cramant, Avize, Oger and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger: five communes whose Campanian chalk subsoils lend the wines that taut minerality and crystalline freshness that define the estate's identity. These chalky clay terroirs, among the most prestigious in all of Champagne, are the undisputed kingdom of chardonnay, the central grape variety of the Waris Larmandier range. The estate also holds several parcels of pinot noir in Chamery, a Premier Cru classified village on the Montagne de Reims, as well as rare plots in the Côte des Bar and the Aube, offering the winemaker a palette of complementary terroirs.

The singularity of the vineyard lies in the remarkable age of its vines: several single-lieu-dit parcels are planted with rootstocks dating from 1939, 1962 or 1963 — vines over sixty years old whose roots plunge deep into the chalk to extract an unparalleled concentration and complexity. Jean-Philippe Waris has also experimented with a change in vine training, moving from a low Guyot trellising system to a raised curtain system in order to improve air circulation through the grape clusters, enhance their health and protect them from frost. Both in the cellar and in the vineyard, interventions are kept to a strict minimum: no chemical products, manual or horse-drawn soil work, biodynamic preparations, and adherence to the lunar calendar for all viticultural work and disgorgements.

Winemaking at Waris Larmandier

The winemaking philosophy at Waris Larmandier rests on a fundamental principle: allowing the terroir to express itself freely, without artifice. The grapes are harvested entirely by hand by a team of around thirty pickers, following the Champagne tradition of communal lodging during harvest. Pressing is carried out in a traditional vertical 4,000 kg basket press, and only the free-run juice — the purest and most delicate — is retained for the primary fermentation. Since the 2013 vintage, wines ferment in open second-hand Burgundy barrels as well as in local barrels originating from Avize, allowing maximum expression of aromatic complexity. Alcoholic and malolactic fermentations are spontaneous, conducted exclusively by the indigenous yeasts naturally present in the vineyard.

One of Jean-Philippe Waris's most distinctive technical choices concerns tirage pressure: whereas the majority of Champagne houses work at 6 bars, Waris Larmandier uses only 4.5 bars during the second fermentation in bottle. This deliberate choice produces a finer effervescence, a creamier mousse and bubbles of silky persistence that immediately set these Champagnes apart at tasting. Ageing on lees lasts from 24 to 36 months for the assemblage cuvées, and may reach five years or more for the parcel wines. The dosage, when used, consists of clarified musts drawn from the estate's own vineyard, and disgorgements are carried out according to the lunar calendar, in keeping with the estate's overall biodynamic approach. The result is a range of Champagnes that are precise, upright and mineral, crafted for gastronomy.

The cuvées of Waris Larmandier

Racines de Trois (Brut): An entry-level cuvée and a true family calling card, "Racines de Trois" takes its name from the three Waris siblings, the three grape varieties it blends (chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot meunier) and the three terroirs from which it originates: the Côte des Blancs, the Montagne de Reims and the Côte des Bar in the Aube. It is a blend of two vintages, with no solera wine added, aged on lees for between 24 and 36 months. Alcoholic fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks and in 600-litre Burgundy demi-muids with indigenous yeasts, followed by a spontaneous malolactic fermentation. The dosage is 5.5 g/l. On the nose, this Champagne reveals notes of yellow fruit, light brioche and citrus. The palate is fresh, structured by the chardonnay and enlivened by the fruity indulgence of the two pinots, resulting in a wine of remarkable drinkability. It is the perfect introduction to the world of Waris Larmandier.

Particules Crayeuses (Extra Brut / Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs): The estate's true flagship cuvée, "Particules Crayeuses" is a Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru made from 100% chardonnay, sourced from the five Grand Cru villages of the Côte des Blancs: Chouilly, Cramant, Avize, Oger and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Its name directly evokes the Campanian chalk that forms the subsoil of these exceptional terroirs and gives the wine its characteristic minerality. The blend marries two vintages and incorporates approximately 30% reserve wine drawn from a solera established since 2013. Fermentation is conducted with indigenous yeasts, partly in stainless steel tanks and partly in 600-litre Burgundy barrels, followed by 24 to 36 months of ageing on lees. The colour is a luminous straw yellow with fine, persistent bubbles. The nose reveals an immediate chalky minerality, intense citrus notes (lemon zest, lime), lemon curd, yellow plum, pear tart, accompanied by nuances of white nougat, vanilla and warm buttered brioche. The palate is ample and creamy, supported by a lively acidity and mineral power of great intensity. A Champagne of gastronomy par excellence, to be paired with seafood, scallops or a perfect egg accompanied by caviar.

L'Instant de Passions (Extra Brut Rosé Grand Cru): Described as a "feminine" cuvée in the estate's own words, "L'Instant de Passions" is a rare and limited assemblage rosé, composed of approximately 80% chardonnay from the Grand Cru parcels of the Côte des Blancs (Chouilly, Cramant, Avize, Oger, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger) and 20% pinot noir from the Côte des Bar. The chardonnay and pinot noir are vinified separately, fermented in 600-litre Burgundy demi-muid barrels and in Avize barrels with indigenous yeasts. Malolactic fermentation is spontaneous; the base wines rest for 6 to 18 months before blending with 20% still pinot noir vinified as red wine, after which the second fermentation in bottle is followed by 24 to 36 months of ageing on lees. Disgorgement is carried out according to the lunar calendar, with a dosage of 4 to 5 g/l. The colour is a delicate partridge-eye rosé with coppery highlights. The nose is complex and enveloping: notes of earthy mushroom, chalk, wild strawberry, pink grapefruit, saline nuances and gentle spices. The palate is creamy, flavourful and silky, with a long, elegant and fresh finish. A gastronomic rosé, equally seductive as an aperitif or at the table.

Ses Arts (Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs): The "Ses Arts" cuvée is a Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru made from 100% chardonnay selected from the finest parcels of the Côte des Blancs, particularly in Avize and Cramant. Jean-Philippe Waris expresses his vision of a Champagne that combines aristocratic structure with artistic sensibility, echoing the very name of the cuvée, which celebrates the marriage between wine and the arts. Fermentation takes place with indigenous yeasts, in stainless steel tanks and demi-muids, yielding a result that is at once elegant and lightly floral, with notes of white-fleshed fruit, citrus, chalk and biscuit. The palate is structured and precise, with fine mineral tension and a persistent saline finish. This Champagne pairs naturally with shellfish, soft-rind cheeses and cream sauce preparations.

Porte de Bas (Zéro Dosage Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, single-parcel cuvée): "Porte de Bas" is the first and most emblematic of Waris Larmandier's single-parcel cuvées. It comes from a historic parcel in Avize planted in 1939 by Jean Waris, the great-grandfather of Jean-Philippe, Pierre-Louis and Inès. Vinifying this lieu-dit represents for the family a tribute to the memory of their ancestors and an affirmation of the estate's identity. It is a zero-dosage Champagne, drawn from the estate's oldest vines, vinified in barrels with indigenous yeasts and aged on lees for an extended period. The result is a wine of exceptional depth and tension, marked by the pure chalk of Avize, an absolute mineral directness and a remarkable length on the palate. Confidential production, available only in the finest years.