The best Hermitage wines: our selection of great wines

The best Hermitage wines: our selection of great wines

On the left bank of the Rhône, above Tain-l'Hermitage, a 136-hectare granite hillside produces one of the world's most sought-after and admired wines. The Hermitage appellation, also known as Ermitage, is a magnificent geographical anomaly: tiny in area, immense in reputation. Its Syrahs rank among France's longest-lived reds, capable of aging for several decades without fading.

This guide is designed to help you navigate the world of Hermitage: understand its terroirs, identify the estates that matter, choose the right vintages, and know which cuvées to invest in, whether you want a bottle to open tonight or one to keep for another ten years.

Key takeaways: 

• Hermitage is one of France's smallest and most prestigious AOCs, with just 136 hectares of vines on the hill above Tain.
• Syrah is the dominant grape variety for the reds, giving them structure, spice and exceptional longevity that can exceed 30 years.
• Major houses such as Chapoutier, Jaboulet and Chave produce the benchmark cuvées, but small, little-known estates also deserve attention.
• The 2010, 2015 and 2019 vintages are considered the most accomplished of the recent decade for reds.
• White Hermitage (Marsanne, Roussanne) is often underrated: it can rival the world's greatest age-worthy whites.

The Hermitage appellation: one hill, one legend

Granted AOC status in 1937, Hermitage is one of France's oldest and smallest appellations. It extends across a single south-facing hillside overlooking the town of Tain-l'Hermitage in the Drôme, a few miles north of Valence.

An exceptional terroir

The Hermitage hillside is divided into several named vineyard sites with distinctly different characters:

•        Le Méal: rounded river stones over calcareous-siliceous soils, producing powerful, opulent wines.

•        Les Bessards: pure granite, deep color, wines with incisive minerality and exceptional longevity.

•        Les Rocoules: clay-loess soils to the east, prime terroir for great white wines.

•        Greffieux, Murets, Dionnières: complementary named vineyard sites that add complexity to the blends.

Note: "La Chapelle" is not a named vineyard site. It takes its name from the Saint-Christophe chapel crowning the hill and, by extension, names Jaboulet's legendary cuvée, which is itself a blend of several vineyard sections.

Most great cuvées blend fruit from several of these plots, with each estate choosing the combination that best expresses its style.

Permitted grape varieties

For the reds, Syrah predominates: appellation rules require at least 85% Syrah and permit up to 15% white grapes, Marsanne and/or Roussanne, to refine the texture (a practice that is rare today). This is not to be confused with neighboring Côte-Rôtie, where up to 20% Viognier may be blended with Syrah. Here, Syrah produces wines of unmatched concentration and depth, with spice, floral notes (violet), black fruit and a tannic structure that fully reveals itself after 10 to 15 years of aging.

For the whites, Marsanne predominates, often accompanied by Roussanne. These often underrated, age-worthy white wines develop aromas of beeswax, acacia and dried fruit with age, along with an oily texture that makes them unique.

The essential Hermitage estates and houses

Hermitage is dominated by a handful of major négociant houses and a small number of estate producers. These are the definitive names, whose wines are snapped up with every vintage.

M. Chapoutier: a champion of single-vineyard wines

Michel Chapoutier revolutionized the approach to Hermitage in the 1990s by adopting biodynamic practices and developing exceptional single-vineyard cuvées. His wines, L'Ermite, Le Méal and Le Pavillon, are now among France's most collected. The L'Ermite cuvée, sourced from a tiny plot of old vines at the top of the hill, reaches extraordinary heights of concentration and aromatic purity.

Paul Jaboulet Aîné: La Chapelle, a global icon

Jaboulet's La Chapelle is probably the world's best-known Hermitage wine. The 1961 vintage remains an absolute benchmark in winemaking worldwide, rated 100/100 by Robert Parker. Since the Frey family acquired the house in 2006, quality has improved through greater attention to viticulture and major investment in the winery.

Jean-Louis Chave: elegance in its purest form

Domaine Chave may be the most discreet name on the list, with limited production, little publicity and long waiting lists. Yet connoisseurs agree that Chave's Hermitage wines represent some of the most complex and long-lived expressions Syrah can produce. Massal selection from old vines, the blending of numerous plots and patient aging yield wines with a harmony and length on the palate rarely matched.

Cave de Tain: an entry-level wine in name only

The Cave de Tain cooperative vinifies a significant share of the appellation's production. Its Hermitage Nobles Rives cuvée offers an accessible introduction to the appellation, with typicity and quality that far exceed what its price suggests. It is often where wine lovers begin before exploring the single-vineyard cuvées of the leading houses.

Which Hermitage wine vintages should you choose?

Hermitage is an appellation whose wines are made to age. Buying the right vintage and opening it at the right time are two decisions that shape the entire tasting experience.

Recent exceptional vintages

•        2019: a sun-drenched vintage, with concentrated wines, silky tannins and exceptional aging potential. Not to be missed.

•        2015: power and opulence. Wines that impress when young but have yet to reveal their full potential.

•        2010: often cited as one of the decade's best. A perfect balance of freshness and concentration. The wines are beginning to open up.

•        2009: a warm vintage producing rich, generous wines. Some cuvées are mature; others are still developing.

•        2005: substantial tannins and exceptional aging potential. The most powerful cuvées are still closed. Worth waiting for.

Historic benchmark vintages

•        1990: a legendary vintage throughout the Rhône Valley. Jaboulet's La Chapelle reaches its peak in this vintage.

•        1978: Syrahs of extraordinary aromatic complexity. Bottles available on the secondary market command a premium.

•        1961: for lovers of historic wines, La Chapelle 1961 is one of the most legendary bottles of the 20th century.

Vintages to approach with caution

The 2002 and 2008 vintages produced less consistent wines because of difficult weather conditions. Bottles from the best producers may still offer pleasant surprises, but careful selection is essential.

Red or white Hermitage: which should you choose?

The red: Syrah in all its majesty

Red Hermitage is Syrah at its finest. When young, it is often austere, almost impenetrable, with firm tannins and a power that impresses without immediately charming. After at least ten years in the cellar, it reveals an incomparably rich range of aromas: violet, licorice, black olive, leather, undergrowth and truffle. After twenty years, some cuvées attain a poise and depth that few wines in the world can match.

A red Hermitage under 8 years old is rarely at its best. Patience is not optional; it is essential.

The white: the appellation's great misunderstood wine

White Hermitage accounts for about a quarter of production (nearly 27% of the vineyard area is planted with white varieties). Made primarily from Marsanne, it goes through an awkward phase between 3 and 8 years of age: it closes down, losing its youthful freshness before developing its mature bouquet. But from 10–12 years onward, it comes into its own: beeswax, toasted hazelnut, dried white flowers, an opulent texture and a seemingly endless finish. Chapoutier, Chave and Jaboulet produce outstanding examples.

Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage: what's the difference?

The two are often confused. Hermitage is an AOC covering only the granite hillside itself: 136 hectares, very limited production and high prices. Crozes-Hermitage encompasses eleven surrounding communes with far more varied terroirs and around 1,700 planted hectares, making it the largest appellation in the northern Rhône.  Its wines are generally less concentrated, more approachable when young and considerably less expensive.

For an introduction to northern Rhône Syrah, Crozes-Hermitage is the ideal starting point. For the appellation at its finest, Hermitage is unrivaled. Both benefit from decanting before serving, but their aging potential is very different.

Food and wine pairings: what should you serve with Hermitage?

Red Hermitage

Its structure and complexity call for dishes with character:

•        Slow-cooked or roasted red meat, leg of lamb, bone-in rib of beef, beef bourguignon

•        Furred game, venison, wild boar, hare à la royale

•        Aged hard cheeses, 24-month Comté, alpine Beaufort

•        Black truffle, the ultimate pairing for a Hermitage aged 15 years or more

White Hermitage

An age-worthy white of this caliber can stand up to robust dishes:

•        Fish in rich sauces, scallops in cream sauce, lobster à l'américaine

•        Poultry in sauce, Bresse chicken in cream sauce, guinea fowl with morels

•        Full-flavored soft cheeses: Époisses, Munster, Livarot

•        Asian cuisine (an unconventional but successful pairing): Marsanne's richness complements umami flavors

Frequently asked questions about Hermitage wines

What is the starting price for a bottle of Hermitage?

Hermitage wine prices vary considerably by producer and vintage. Entry-level bottles cost around €30–40 (Cave de Tain). The leading cuvées from Chapoutier, Jaboulet and Chave sell for €80 to €300. Exceptional single-vineyard wines (L'Ermite and La Chapelle from great vintages) often exceed €400–500.

How long can you age a red Hermitage?

The best red Hermitage wines can age for 30 to 50 years without difficulty. For prestige cuvées, the optimal drinking window is generally between 10 and 25 years. For entry-level cuvées, 5 to 10 years is enough.

Should you decant a red Hermitage?

Yes, as a rule. A red Hermitage under 15 years old benefits from decanting for 1 to 2 hours before serving. For wines over 20 years old, a brief decant (20–30 minutes) is enough, taking the usual care to separate the sediment.

Does white Hermitage age as well as red?

Yes, and this surprises many wine lovers. A great white Hermitage from Chapoutier or Chave can age for 20 to 30 years. Marsanne is a naturally reductive grape variety, which helps protect the wine from oxidation. The key is to let it pass through its closed phase (3–8 years) and develop fully.

What is the difference between Hermitage and Saint-Joseph?

Saint-Joseph is a neighboring, much larger appellation (over 1,200 hectares) that also produces Syrah and Marsanne/Roussanne wines. Its wines are more approachable, less concentrated and less expensive. They offer a fine introduction to the northern Rhône Valley but do not claim the depth or longevity of Hermitage.