Derain

History of Domaine Derain

Dominique Derain began his career as a cooper before studying viticulture and enology in Beaune. In 1988, he and his wife Catherine acquired 5.5 hectares of vines in Saint-Aubin, south of Beaune, and immediately adopted biodynamic practices at the estate. The wines were certified by Ecocert as early as 1989, making it one of the first Burgundy properties to take that step. At a time when such convictions were considered too activist and too far removed from the way the major houses operated, Dominique Derain spent three decades demonstrating the merits of his approach through his wines.

His pure, vibrant wines quickly became icons in the small world of natural wine, renowned far beyond France’s borders. In 2002, Julien Altaber joined the estate and became his trusted right-hand man for nearly fifteen years. In late 2016, as he prepared to retire, Dominique Derain chose to hand the entire operation over to Julien Altaber and Carole Schwab, who also run Maison Sextant. Derain remains active in the vineyard and winery when he is not traveling to work on collaborative cuvées, but the succession is firmly in place. Since this handover, regarded as one of the finest in French natural wine over the past decade, the wines have even gained in power and definition while retaining the house’s characteristic purity.

Terroirs and Vines of Domaine Derain

The vineyard covers around 5.5 to 6 hectares, divided into numerous small plots scattered around the hill of Montrachet and in the Saint-Aubin combe, with holdings in Pommard in the Côte de Beaune and Mercurey in the Côte Chalonnaise. Saint-Aubin remains one of Burgundy’s best-kept secrets: its vines directly adjoin the premiers crus of Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet, without commanding their prices. The cooler, windier combe brings valuable natural acidity and gives the Chardonnays their characteristic tension.

The soils alternate between red clays, marls and limestone scree depending on the climat, with each plot requiring its own approach. The philosophy is to intervene as little as possible, both in the vineyard and in the winery. Horn manure, silica and plant-based preparations shape the biodynamic calendar, with no synthetic chemicals whatsoever. Yields are deliberately low, explaining the modest size of production. Some plots contain very old vines, such as the Mercurey parcel planted around a century ago by Dominique Derain’s grandfather, where a few Pinot Beurot vines still grow among the Pinot Noir.

Winemaking at Domaine Derain

The estate’s credo can be summed up in one word: non-intervention. The grapes are hand-harvested and carefully sorted, and fermentation starts spontaneously using only native yeasts. No winemaking additives are used, no adjustments are made, and sulfur is used extremely sparingly—sometimes not at all. Today, the reds are mostly destemmed, accentuating the purity of their fruit and making them immediately appealing without diminishing the aging potential of the top cuvées.

Macerations are gentle and short, without heavy extraction, in a constant pursuit of drinkability. The whites are pressed gently and then aged in older barrels; Dominique Derain’s former career as a cooper helps explain his meticulous choice of oak. Aging takes place without excessive lees stirring, fining or filtration, and bottling follows the lunar calendar. The result is lively, precise and remarkably easy-to-drink wines in which the terroir’s energy takes precedence over any display of technique. The whites stand out for their saline focus, the reds for crisp fruit and fine tannins.

The cuvées of Domaine Derain

Bourgogne Blanc « Landre »: a single-plot Chardonnay from near Saint-Aubin, made with the same care as the crus. It offers immediate freshness, with citrus and white-flower notes, a fluid palate and a clean finish. A bright introduction to the estate’s wines.

Bourgogne Blanc « La Combe »: one of the estate’s benchmark cuvées, praised for its finesse and faithful expression of terroir. Born in the coolness of the combe, it is a taut, crystalline white with notes of lemon, flint and fresh almond, and persistent salinity. A model regional Bourgogne.

Bourgogne « La Corvée aux Moines »: a plot whose name speaks to its monastic history, producing a white with a little more body and texture than the preceding wines. Ripe white fruit, a hint of hazelnut and a mineral backbone make for a harmonious wine that is inviting yet lively on the finish.

Vin de France Aligoté: a tribute to Burgundy’s long-neglected white grape. Lively, crystalline and refreshing, it offers lime, green apple and brisk acidity, without the slightest artifice. The quintessential thirst-quenching wine, perfect as an aperitif or with shellfish.

Saint-Aubin Blanc: the village Chardonnay cuvée, blended from several plots in the combe. Its white fruit is clearly defined, while the taut, bright palate is driven by fresh energy and a mouthwatering finish that cleanses the palate. Nothing is forced; everything is balanced, with a real sense of minerality and structure.

Saint-Aubin Blanc « En Vesvau »: a single-plot cuvée with a pure, forthright character and quiet confidence. White fruit shines through, supported by a focused mineral structure and a long, mouthwatering finish. A white with character, already highly expressive in its youth yet possessing good aging potential. Superb with seafood or grilled fish.

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru « Sur le Sentier du Clou »: a vibrant premier cru marked by brilliant freshness and great precision. The palate is direct and fluid, with bright fruit and a tension that gives the wine structure without sacrificing depth. The finish is clean, saline and wonderfully refreshing. An energetic Saint-Aubin full of promise, ideal with vegetables or delicate fish.

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru « Les Combes au Sud »: from red soils, this premier cru strikes a beautiful balance between substance and freshness. Fuller and fleshier than the estate’s other whites, it retains vibrant acidity and a mineral finish. Many consider it one of the house’s very best whites.

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru « En Remilly »: directly neighboring Chevalier-Montrachet, this prestigious climat produces a wine still brimming with energy in its youth, where tension takes the lead while hinting at considerable depth. The palate is precise and structured, the texture fine, and the finish long, mineral and persistent. It benefits greatly from aeration, gradually revealing its full complexity. A great white in the making.

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru « Murgers des Dents de Chien »: one of the appellation’s most renowned climats, with very stony soils studded with limestone fragments. They give the wine an almost piercing chalky minerality, alongside aromas of citrus, white flowers and flint, and a remarkably long finish. A premier cru built for aging.

Bourgogne Rouge « Les Riaux »: a single-plot Pinot Noir, destemmed and gently vinified to make a wine for immediate enjoyment. Cherry, wild strawberry and a hint of spice lead on a juicy palate with fine tannins and invigorating acidity. The estate’s remarkably easy-drinking wine to share with friends.

Saint-Aubin Rouge « Le Ban »: a longstanding cuvée of the house, born of a terroir that lends the wine an appealing, unapologetic rusticity. The color is deep, the nose fine and nuanced, and the palate full of finesse, with expressive, savory fruit leading to a robust, direct finish that is the hallmark of this site. An authentic red Saint-Aubin that stands apart from polished Pinots.

Saint-Aubin 1er Cru « Le Puits »: the estate’s premier cru red, more powerful and tightly structured. Black fruit dominates, notably blackcurrant and blackberry, with a dense palate and pronounced tannins in its youth. It needs a few years in the cellar to come together and reveal its full depth.

Mercurey « La Plante Chassey »: an emblematic cuvée from 0.90 hectares of old vines with southern and southeastern exposure, planted around a century ago by Dominique Derain’s grandfather in deep, fine clay soils. A few Pinot Beurot vines grow among the Pinot Noir. The profile is more structured, with a substantial but never heavy palate, ripe yet restrained fruit, and a precise finish that makes it remarkably easy to drink. The depth of the terroir comes through with finesse and restraint. Perfect with roasted meat or a mushroom dish.

Pommard « Les Petits Noizons »: the estate’s venture into one of the Côte de Beaune’s great red-wine villages, from a climat known for producing Pommards that are more supple and approachable in their youth. The wine combines the appellation’s characteristic structure with the easy drinkability prized by the house, offering ripe black fruit, spice and well-integrated tannins.

Gevrey-Chambertin: a rarer cuvée, produced depending on the vintage, that brings the Derain style to the Côte de Nuits. Black fruit, spice and forest-floor notes find their balance here, alongside firmer structure and good aging potential.

« Allez-Goutons »: a cuvée with a playful name, true to the estate’s spirited character. Made for sharing, it offers crisp fruit, freshness and immediate drinkability, without the slightest compromise on the purity of the wine.

« Passe Tout D'rain »: a nod to Burgundy’s Passetoutgrain, this blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay playfully revisits an old regional tradition. Light, easy-drinking and brimming with fruit, it is best served chilled and reminds us that wine should first and foremost be a pleasure.

« Chute Derain »: another fanciful cuvée from the house, made in small quantities from free-form blends that vary by vintage. Always different, it embodies the estate’s experimental spirit, with vibrant fruit, a supple structure and the natural energy that marks all the Derain family’s Saint-Aubin wines.