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Domaine Lise et Bertrand Jousset in Montlouis sur Loire, Touraine: splendid Loire wines
Based in the hamlet of Husseau, in Montlouis-sur-Loire, Domaine de Lise et Bertrand Jousset has become one of the Loire Valley’s most appealing producers over the past twenty years. The couple cultivates around ten hectares spread across nearly thirty plots, planted mainly with Chenin, alongside a little Chardonnay, Gamay, Grolleau and Pinot Noir. They farm organically, using biodynamic methods on some plots, working by hand and with horses, without any heavy machinery. In the cellar, nothing is added except a few milligrams of sulfur at bottling; the juice moves by gravity, and the wines are aged for extended periods in barrels of various sizes.
Neither Lise nor Bertrand was born into a winemaking family. Lise Girard grew up on a farm in Deux-Sèvres, a region far more devoted to grain than to vines, before working in restaurants and becoming a sommelier, notably in Paris, where she spent about ten years. Bertrand Jousset, meanwhile, was initially a career soldier. In 1998, he left the army and studied viticulture and enology at the wine school in Amboise, then spent four years gaining hands-on experience in Switzerland, Loir-et-Cher, Vouvray, and, already, a little in Montlouis.
The couple met, discovered a shared desire to make a living from the vines, and decided to establish their own estate. They did so in 2004, in the heart of the Montlouis-sur-Loire appellation, about twenty minutes east of Tours. The timing was favorable: long overshadowed by neighboring Vouvray, the appellation was enjoying a remarkable revival led by winemakers such as François Chidaine and Jacky Blot, whose work directly inspired Lise and Bertrand. Vintage after vintage, they expanded their vineyards, acquired very old plots, refined their aging practices, and became a benchmark for Loire Chenin in their own right.
The vineyard is spread across some thirty plots, mainly in Husseau, with a few vines in Saint-Martin-le-Beau and Lussault-sur-Loire—the three communes that make up the Montlouis-sur-Loire area. The soils fall into two broad groups: on one hand, surface sand and flint over limestone bedrock, producing fine, taut wines with immediate appeal; on the other, deeper, more structured flinty clay over limestone, bringing substance, density, and length. Beneath it all lies Touraine’s tuffeau limestone, into which the cellars are carved.
Chenin occupies most of the vineyard, with an exceptional heritage of old vines: some plots are over sixty years old, others are approaching a century, and the oldest have reached 120 years. There are also about a hectare of Chardonnay and a hectare of red varieties—Gamay, Grolleau, and Pinot Noir. The vineyards are farmed organically, with biodynamic principles applied to several plots. The soil is worked by hand and horse, with heavy mechanization ruled out. Yields are deliberately low, around 20 to 30 hectoliters per hectare depending on the cuvée, and all grapes are harvested by hand.
The winery was designed on three levels so the juice moves solely by gravity, minimizing mechanical handling and preserving the wines’ finesse. Pressing is slow and gentle, with grapes pressed directly, and the juice is settled without additives. Fermentations begin using native yeasts alone, with no commercial yeast, enzymes, or chaptalization.
Aging proceeds slowly in 225-, 400-, and 600-liter barrels of widely varying ages, with no more than ten percent new oak so it never dominates the wines. Some cuvées also spend time in tanks, sometimes for an additional year. No additives are used, apart from tiny amounts of sulfur at bottling—and sometimes none at all for the pétillants naturels. Depending on the vintage, the dry wines retain a few grams of residual sugar, striking a distinctly Loire balance between dry and just off-dry, always underpinned by vibrant acidity. The result is a style recognizable anywhere: honest, generous, elegant, and precise Chenins, as enjoyable young as they are capable of aging for many years.
Bubulle is the estate’s signature pétillant naturel, the wine that opens every tasting at the cellar. Made entirely from Chenin by the ancestral method, it finishes fermenting in the bottle, with no dosage, added liqueur, or sulfur. The bubbles are fine and lively, the nose suggests apple, pear, and white flowers, and the palate remains direct, saline, and refreshing. A benchmark natural sparkling wine, perfect as an aperitif.
Bubulle Rosé expresses the same spirit through Gamay planted on limestone soils in the 1970s. Hand-harvested and bottled before fermentation is complete, it offers a pale, luminous color, crisp strawberry and redcurrant fruit, and delicate bubbles. A lively, fruit-forward pét-nat, best served well chilled with a charcuterie board or summery dishes.
Premier Rendez-vous is the estate’s flagship and most widely produced cuvée: the first Montlouis Lise and Bertrand ever made, hence its name. It blends eight plots of old vines, some more than a century old, planted on sand and flint as well as flinty clay. Above all, the wine seeks freshness, tension, and easy drinkability, with aromas of flowers, citrus, white peach, melon, and quince. At times, a touch of residual sugar gives it a just-off-dry character. A bright white, ideal as an aperitif or with Loire fish or goat cheese.
Premier Rendez-vous Version Longue starts with the same base wine but spends an additional twelve months aging in tanks before being bottled unfiltered. It gains depth, texture, and complexity, with notes of candied yellow fruit, honey, and sweet spice, while retaining the original cuvée’s saline energy. A version built for aging; decant before serving.
Singulier lives up to its name: this dry Montlouis comes from a small selection of old vines and spends longer aging in barrels. Denser and more finely etched than Premier Rendez-vous, it reveals aromas of quince, ripe white fruit, and chalk, with a focused, taut palate supported by a pleasing bitterness on the finish. A Chenin made for the table; open it with chicken in cream sauce or fish in sauce.
Clos aux Renards is the estate’s fine wine, from an enclosed vineyard planted with vines sixty to one hundred years old and worked entirely by hand and horse. Yields fall to around twenty hectoliters per hectare, and the wine is aged in 400- and 600-liter barrels. It impresses with its depth, density, and chalky minerality, offering aromas of ripe yellow fruit, dried flowers, wax, and spice, followed by a remarkably long finish. A rare bottle built for long aging.
Les Audouines highlights the Chardonnay planted on the estate, an unexpected grape in Touraine, vinified and aged with the same restraint as the Chenins. The wine charms with its tension, precise fruit, citrus and almond notes, and a texture refined by barrel aging. A distinctive cuvée that shows how terroir always takes precedence over grape variety here.
Le Vilain P’tit Ch’nin is the estate’s cuvée for immediate enjoyment, a pure Chenin bottled as Vin de France. Light, crisp, and refreshing, it offers citrus, green apple, and a pronounced salinity, with irresistible drinkability. An easygoing wine that asks nothing of you but to enjoy it—serve chilled, without ceremony.
Exilé is, as its name suggests, the cuvée that ventures beyond the appellation’s boundaries. Bottled as Vin de France, it blends Montlouis Chenin with grapes from elsewhere, depending on the vintage, such as Colombard from the Tarn in some years. The result is an original, fresh, easy-drinking white combining flowers, citrus, and white fruit, reflecting the couple’s taste for experimentation without ever sacrificing precision.
En Aparté Sous Voile is the estate’s limited-production and most daring cuvée, a dry Chenin aged for an extended period under a veil of yeast, in the style of Jura wines. The result is a white with notes of walnut, curry, dried fruit, and citrus peel, and a sharp, saline palate with remarkable persistence. A bottle for curious wine lovers, to open with aged Comté, mushrooms, or chicken with morels.
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