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The revival of Cabernet Franc at the heart of Saumur-Champigny
Located in Parnay, in the prestigious Saumur-Champigny appellation at the heart of the Loire Valley, the Domaine des Closiers is a rising star of French viticulture. This historic estate, taken over in 2018 by Anatole de La Brosse, embodies a passionate pursuit of excellence through exceptional organic wines, primarily from the region's signature grape variety: Cabernet Franc. With its 24 hectares of vines cultivated on a unique clay-limestone soil, the Domaine des Closiers combines tradition, innovation and respect for nature to produce red and white cuvées that captivate amateurs and experts alike. Supported by iconic figures such as Michel Chevré and Nady Foucault, this vineyard has established itself today as an unmissable reference, often compared to the mythical Clos Rougeard.
The Domaine des Closiers takes its name from the "closiers," those vintners of old who cultivated the enclosed vineyard plots and lived in the troglodyte dwellings carved into the hillsides of Parnay. This name pays tribute to these dedicated workers, a nod to the collective spirit and complementarity of skills championed by Anatole de La Brosse, the estate's visionary owner. After a 20-year career in strategy and management consulting, this trained oenologist decided to reconnect with his first passion: wine. In 2018, he acquired this historic property and undertook an ambitious transformation to make it a flagship of Saumur-Champigny.
From his arrival, Anatole surrounded himself with two major figures of the Loire: Michel Chevré, a biodynamics expert from the Clos de l'Écotard, and Nady Foucault, former master of the legendary Clos Rougeard. Together, they breathed new life into the estate, immediately converting its 15 hectares to organic farming (Ecocert certified) and adopting practices inspired by biodynamics. The inaugural vintage of 2019 marked a turning point, praised by critics such as Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve, who saw it as a "second birth" of Clos Rougeard. Today, the Domaine des Closiers is far more than a vineyard: it is a philosophy, a human adventure and a return to the roots of respectful viticulture.
The Domaine des Closiers spans 24 hectares, of which 15 hectares in Parnay are organically certified, and 9 hectares in organic conversion, spread between Souzay-Champigny and Dampierre. The latter constitute a precious "reserve," allowing the domaine de Closiers to offset the effects of climate variations without ever resorting to grapes from outside. This self-sufficiency guarantees irreproachable traceability and quality, true to Anatole's vision. The clay-limestone soil, rich in tuffeau, gives the wines a unique finesse and depth, while the steep hillsides of Parnay, unlike the rest of the often flat appellation, offer ideal conditions for Cabernet Franc, which dominates 95% of the vineyard.
The vines, with an average age of 35 years, are carefully cultivated under the supervision of Pierre Derouin, the estate manager. Some plots, such as those for the Bay Rouge and Trézellières cuvées, exceed 50 years of age, bringing concentration and complexity to the wines. The estate also takes a sustainable approach: uprooted plots are left to rest for 5 to 7 years to allow natural soil regeneration. A few rows of Chenin Blanc and a plot of Chardonnay complete the picture, dedicated to the white cuvées Allegory and Libere. Respect for the lunar and astral calendar, the use of herbal teas (nettles, ferns) and the training of vines to avoid mechanical trimming reflect a deep harmony with nature.
Winemaking at the Domaine des Closiers is a meticulous art, guided by a quest for purity and freshness. Every step, from harvest to ageing, is designed to bring out the best in the fruit while respecting the terroir. The grapes, harvested by hand, undergo a fourfold sorting process: after véraison, the small grape clusters are removed, followed by sorting in the vineyard, then two selections on a sorting table after destemming. Transported in 20 kg crates to prevent crushing, they are protected by a bioprotectant, eliminating the need for SO2 at this stage. A cold room lowers their temperature before vatting, ensuring optimal maceration.
Destemming, carried out with an Oscillys, preserves the integrity of the berries, while temperature-controlled vats and gravity-fed racking ensure perfect control of the fermentations, which are spontaneous thanks to indigenous yeasts. The macerations, long and cold, last up to one month for the reds, allowing a gentle infusion of aromas and a delicate extraction of tannins. Cabernet Franc, a demanding grape variety, finds its ideal balance here between freshness, acidity and structure. Ageing, primarily in barrels for the reds (with moderate use of new wood), promotes the micro-oxygenation essential to this grape variety. For the whites, barrel vinification reveals the richness of the Chenin and Chardonnay without heaviness. No chemical products are used, apart from a small dose of SO2 at bottling.
The domaine des Closiers offers a range of six cuvées, four reds and two whites, each reflecting a unique terroir and vision. Here is a detailed presentation:
Les Closiers - Saumur-Champigny Rouge
A blended cuvée from the estate's plots, Les Closiers is an accessible yet deep Cabernet Franc. Aged 14 months primarily in stainless steel vats, with a touch of barrels to soften the tannins, it offers a velvety texture and remarkable fruit purity. Ideal for discovering the elegance of Saumur-Champigny.
Les Coudraies - Saumur-Champigny Rouge
From a 6-hectare island plot in Parnay, this cuvée selects the best parcels (approximately 3 hectares). The vines, aged 25 to 40 years, yield a structured wine, aged one year in used barrels then one year in bottle. Its power and finesse make it a typical example of Loire Cabernet Franc.
Trézellières - Saumur-Champigny Rouge
From a 1.4-hectare plot in Parnay, Trézellières is an exceptional wine with limited yields (6,500 bottles). Aged two years in barrels (30% new) and one year in bottle, this Cabernet Franc from 25- to 40-year-old vines rivals the greatest reds of the Loire in depth and longevity.
Bay Rouge - Saumur-Champigny Rouge
Born from a small plot between Parnay and Turquant, Bay Rouge is the quintessence of the estate. Its 50- to 60-year-old vines, trained to avoid mechanical trimming, produce 1,200 bottles per year at low yields (20 hl/ha). Aged three years in new barrels and one year in bottle, this dense and refined wine is an ode to ripe Cabernet Franc.
Allegory - Saumur Blanc
This 100% Chenin Blanc, sourced from the Les Gorys plots in Parnay, reveals the complexity of the grape variety on tuffeau. Vinified and aged 12 months in barrels, without malolactic fermentation, it retains freshness and tension after one year in bottle. A rare and expressive cuvée, limited to a few hundred cases.
Libere - IGP Val de Loire
An exceptional Chardonnay produced on 30 ares (400 bottles). Aged 18 months in new barrels, without malolactic fermentation, Libere offers textured richness and rare elegance for a wine of this appellation. A gem for lovers of bold whites.
If the domaine des Closiers has won you over with its renewal and excellence, the richness of the Saumur-Champigny appellation does not stop there! Discover other exceptional estates that bring this Loire Valley region to life. Antoine Sanzay enchants with his characterful organic wines, while the legendary Clos Rougeard, a true icon, continues to embody the timeless elegance of Cabernet Franc. The Domaine des Roches Neuves, a pioneer of biodynamics, offers vibrant and modern cuvées. Each of these vineyards, like the Closiers, tells a unique story, balancing tradition and innovation, inviting enthusiasts to explore the treasures of Saumur-Champigny.
The Domaine des Closiers, driven by Anatole de La Brosse, redefines the standards of Saumur-Champigny with organic wines of rare finesse and authenticity. Between exceptional terroirs, biodynamic practices and precise winemaking, each bottle tells a story: that of a vineyard in harmony with nature and a team passionate about excellence. Whether you are drawn to the power of the Cabernet Franc reds or the delicacy of the whites in Chenin and Chardonnay, the cuvées of the Domaine des Closiers promise a memorable tasting experience. Acclaimed by critics and already a cult favourite among connoisseurs, this estate is an invitation to discover the Loire in a new light.
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