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Must-See Châteaux |
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Located in the Galine district, a stone's throw from Saint-Rémy-de-Provence and at the foot of the Alpilles, Domaine Henri Milan is a pioneering figure in natural wine in Provence. Across 15 hectares farmed organically and biodynamically, the Milan family produces boldly free-spirited wines, vinified with very little or no sulfur, including the celebrated cuvée Le Papillon, which has graced the finest tables around the world. All wines are sold as Vin de France, by choice of total freedom.
The story of Domaine Henri Milan begins in 1956, when Robert Milan purchased a property with no vines two kilometres from Saint-Rémy-de-Provence. He planted his first vines two years later and built a winemaking cellar in 1973. But the estate truly took off in the late 1980s, when his son Henri, then barely twenty-four years old, dissuaded his father from selling and took over the estate with the ambition of producing great natural wines.
An iconoclastic winegrower and man of conviction, Henri Milan converted to organic farming as early as 1988, abandoned chemical products, then moved in the 1990s towards sulphur-free winemaking, far from academic standards. His defining encounter in 1996 with Claude Bourguignon, a soil microbiology researcher, reinforced his commitment to a viticulture founded on the life of the soil. In 2000, his first wine without added sulphur was released, and in 2007 he voluntarily left the AOC Baux-de-Provence to produce under the Vin de France classification, a guarantee of freedom. Today, his children Théophile and Emmanuelle are guiding the estate towards ever greater precision.
The Domaine Henri Milan vineyard extends over some fifteen hectares at the foot of the Alpilles, on terroirs composed primarily of calcareous scree and blue marls. This distinctive geology, combined with the Mediterranean climate tempered by the mistral and the coolness of the hillsides, brings the wines a remarkable freshness and energy, perceptible in their swirling fruit expressions.
Varietal diversity is great, reflecting the philosophy of the estate. In red, one finds Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Merlot, Cinsault and Cabernet Sauvignon; in white, Grenache blanc, Rolle, Roussanne, Marsanne, Chardonnay and Muscat à petits grains. Henri Milan readily practises co-planting, planting several grape varieties on the same plot, harvested and vinified together. Viticulture, conducted in extreme organic and biodynamic farming, excludes all chemical products and favours the life of the soils.
In the cellar, winemaking resolutely departs from the beaten path, with the aim of letting the grape speak for itself. Harvesting is done in whole clusters, the reds come from short macerations with only indigenous yeasts, without any additives. For the iconic Le Papillon cuvées, in red, white and rosé, no sulphur is added, either during winemaking or at bottling. This boldness, which has extended the estate's reputation to the greatest international tables, is part of the house's DNA.
The other cuvées may receive an infinitesimal amount of sulphur, but always before bottling and never during winemaking, with the most sulphited wine reaching a maximum of fifteen to twenty milligrams per litre — an infinitely lower level than the thresholds permitted in organic production. The whites are often made from direct pressing and fermented in concrete tanks without the addition of yeast or sulphur, while the most ambitious reds undergo ageing of around one year in barrel, without any harshness or pursuit of aromatic manipulation.
Le Papillon Rouge: the estate's iconic cuvée, with no added sulphur, a blend of the property's red grape varieties (grenache, syrah, mourvèdre). Produced by short maceration with indigenous yeasts, it is a true fruit bomb, generous with small red fruits, combining elegance and freshness, with a liquorice finish.
Le Papillon Blanc: the white counterpart of this sulphur-free range, made from blends of white grape varieties varying according to the vintage (grenache blanc, rolle, roussanne, marsanne, chardonnay). A pleasure wine to drink in its youth, it unfolds a nose of spices and white pepper, a luscious palate and a saline finish.
Le Papillon Rosé: a sulphur-free rosé of rare intensity for this colour, true to the natural and lively spirit of the estate. Fruity, energetic and full of personality, it moves away from conventional Provençal rosés to offer a frank and original expression.
Le Grand Blanc: a blend of Grenache blanc, Rolle, Roussanne, Chardonnay and Muscat à petits grains, produced by direct pressing and fermentation in concrete tanks without the addition of yeast or sulphur. Of high aromatic relief, it is an ample and complex white with frank flavours and fine ageing potential.
La Carrée: a single-vineyard white of pure Roussanne, asserting a strong identity and a great depth of flavour. Rich and precise, it illustrates the estate's ability to draw the best from a single grape variety on its calcareous terroir.
S&X: one of the estate's most ambitious red cuvées, produced from a blend of southern grape varieties crafted with exacting standards. More structured and deep than the fruit-driven cuvées, it combines concentration and finesse in the natural spirit of the house.
Eliott: a prestigious red cuvée, crafted from the finest plots and carefully aged. Complex and elegant, it expresses the full depth of the calcareous scree and blue marl terroir, while preserving the energy and purity of fruit so dear to the estate.
Le Clos (Clos Milan): the estate's historic great red wine, its most accomplished cuvée, produced from careful macerations and long ageing. Dense, deep and built for cellaring, it embodies the pinnacle of Henri Milan's quest: a natural fine wine of stature, true to its place and its philosophy.
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