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The Tour du Bon estate in Provence: exceptional Bandol wines
domaine de la Tour du Bon is located in Brulat du Castellet in the Var department. Originally, when the Bandol AOC was created in 1941 and the first vines had just been planted, the Tour du Bon estate labelled its wines "Cru du Castellet", before choosing the name domaine de La Tour du Bon, in reference to a watchtower once erected on a nearby hill.
In 1968, Claude and Robert Hocquard purchased the Tour du Bon estate and decided to expand the vineyard, which now covers 15 ha including 1 ha of Provence blanc, on this singular terroir of calcareous and sandy soils enjoying varied exposures, yet one of the earliest-ripening in Bandol. In 1987, the remarkable Provence Rouge Saint-Férréol cuvée was born, sourced from the 3 finest mourvèdre plots of the Tour du Bon estate, and produced only in years when these plots cannot be omitted from the blend of the classic cuvée. In the early 1990s, the Tour du Bon estate took flight under the impetus of Agnès Hocquard-Henry and two Loire-based winemakers (Thierry Puzelat and Antoine Pouponneau), producing wines of great character that age harmoniously, in a rather delicate style with no excess extraction or elevage. The white grape varieties (clairette, ugni blanc, rolle) are planted on south-facing sandy soils, while the reds (mourvèdre, grenache, carignan, cinsault) benefit from stony red soils that accentuate the spicy character of mourvèdre, Bandol's emblematic grape variety. The Tour du Bon estate, certified organic since 2014, produces concentrated yet balanced reds, dense whites and magnificent Provence rosés, all under the Bandol appellation. The Tour du Bon Bandol blanc delivers a rising perfume of citrus, white flowers and exotic fruits in its youth, then of wax and honey as it ages. Its palate is full without heaviness, and despite its low acidity, it conveys a certain vibrancy thanks to a mineral, liquorice-tinged finish. The Tour du Bon Bandol rouge is more approachable than the Saint-Férréol cuvée, yet offers fine aromatic complexity linked to the blend of mourvèdre, grenache, cinsault and carignan. The fruitiness of the grenache brings kirsch-like notes as a counterpoint to the spiced and peppery accents of the mourvèdre, while the cinsault/carignan pairing ties the whole together. The palate has a fairly powerful tannic structure in its youth, which will become fleshy and silky with age. The Bandol St Férréol cuvée is composed of 90% mourvèdre and 10% carignan. It is an introspective, rigorous, upright wine, and its spiced/peppery palate leaves a mineral imprint reminiscent of sandstone. Notes of tobacco, truffle and lily intermingle with the tart note of the carignan, which opens the wine and makes it more brilliant in its youth. A few great vintages to seek out: 1998 / 2001 / 2004 / 2007.
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