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Must-See Châteaux |
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This family estate in the Jura, located in Arlay, is one of the oldest winemaking families in France. Since the estate was founded in the 15th century, 15 generations of winemakers have succeeded one another, perpetuating the tradition. Today the vineyard spans 10 hectares and rests on clay-limestone soils. Domaine Jean Bourdy covers all the appellations of the Jura: Côtes-du-Jura, Château-Chalon, Arbois, L'Étoile, Macvin, Marc de Jura and Crémant du Jura. The harvests are done by hand and the vineyard has been cultivated using biodynamic methods since 2006 and has been certified since 2010 (Demeter certification).
For the Bourdy family, their history is inseparable from that of the Jura vineyards. The family lineage is documented in Arlay from the late 15th century, making them one of France’s oldest winemaking families; the present generation is the fifteenth in direct succession. In the village, nestled in the heart of the Jura not far from Château-Chalon, time seems to have stood still: vaulted cellars, century-old oak casks, and unchanged labels convey an authenticity rare in today’s wine world.
The family has always made a point of passing its standards and values on to the next generation, and the one after that. This commitment is embodied in the preservation of an extraordinary collection of very old vintages, patiently assembled since 1781 and kept in perfect condition in the estate’s cellars. Robert Parker himself noted the stir caused by these bottles’ gradual arrival on international markets, where they attracted a devoted following. The estate also makes the legendary Galant des Abbesses, a spiced fortified wine whose unchanged 25-spice recipe dates back to 1579—a living testament to medieval expertise. After Jean-François and Jean-Philippe Bourdy, who brought the house to prominence and began its transition to biodynamics in 2006, followed by Demeter certification, Laura Bourdy now carries on the family venture.
The vineyards extend across around ten hectares surrounding Arlay, in the southern Jura wine region, very close to Château-Chalon, where the estate farms a few precious parcels. The soils are clay-limestone, including the famous gray and blue Liassic marls that are Savagnin’s natural home and give it the lively acidity essential for long aging under flor. The Jura’s continental climate, with harsh winters and sometimes hot summers, brings slow ripening and preserves balance.
The region’s five grape varieties are grown: Chardonnay and Savagnin for whites, and Poulsard, Trousseau, and Pinot Noir for reds. The vineyards have been farmed biodynamically since 2006 and Demeter-certified since 2010, with no pesticides. The soils are carefully tended, and the vines are nourished exclusively with biodynamic preparations, in an approach focused less on maximizing output than on the balance of the living environment. Harvesting is entirely by hand, and yields are naturally moderate. The house has always favored consistency and authenticity over volume.
The winemaking method has barely changed in generations, and that is precisely what gives the wines their depth and soul. Fermentation still relies solely on native yeasts, without any additives or adjustments. The white Savagnin wines undergo traditional Jura aging under flor in old oak barrels. A veil of yeast forms naturally on the wine’s surface, protecting it from oxidation and giving it aromas of walnut, almond, and spice.
These old barrels, true guardians of the yeasts, are never replaced: they are essential to the development of a high-quality flor and, in turn, to producing Savagnin or vin jaune of great complexity. Aging periods vary by wine: three years for Côtes du Jura Savagnin, three to four years in barrels for the Chardonnays, seven to eight years under flor for the vins jaunes, and two to four years in large oak casks for the reds. This patience explains the wines’ exceptional aging potential, often fifty years or more, as demonstrated by early-20th-century vintages that remain dazzling today.
Les Jumelles is the house’s white Côtes du Jura, made entirely from Chardonnay and aged for three to four years in oak barrels. This long time in wood gives it a generous texture and uncommon depth for a Chardonnay while preserving its freshness and limestone minerality. Dry, precise, and already complex, it can easily age for around ten years and pairs wonderfully with river fish, poultry in cream sauce, and pressed cheeses.
Sosthène showcases Savagnin in all its glory as a wine aged under flor. Aged for three years in small oak barrels without topping up or racking, it develops the classic, captivating range of a flor-aged wine: fresh walnut, almond, curry, and dried fruit, carried by vibrant acidity and penetrating salinity. Despite its moderate alcohol level, this white has astonishing aging potential of up to fifty years and offers an ideal introduction to the Jura’s oxidative wines.
Henriette is the estate’s red Côtes du Jura, a blend of equal parts of the Jura’s three red varieties: Pinot Noir, Trousseau, and Poulsard. Aged for two to four years in oak barrels, it has a translucent orange-red color and a complex, mature nose combining red fruit, potpourri, red spices, and aged leather. The palate is delicate, supple, and exceptionally elegant. Its modest alcohol level of around 11.5% makes it particularly easy to drink. Yet it can age for up to twenty years, making it one of France’s most underrated reds.
Vin Jaune Cuvée Armand, from the Côtes du Jura appellation, is made exclusively from Savagnin aged for seven to eight years under flor in small barrels, well beyond the required six years and three months. Bottled in the traditional 62-centiliter clavelin, it offers a powerful nose of walnut, curry, and dried fruit, a palate of striking intensity, and an exceptionally long finish, with the potential to age for half a century. Château-Chalon Cuvée Christian is the estate’s crowning achievement and one of the world’s greatest vins jaunes. From the Jura’s most prestigious terroir and likewise aged for seven to eight years under flor, it gains even greater power and distinction. The estate regularly offers remarkable Château-Chalon verticals spanning the early 20th century to the present, including the 1945, 1951, 1953, 1954, 1955, 1958, and 1959 vintages, which make unique birthday gifts. With age, these wines gradually lose the famous vin jaune character and gain subtlety: saffron, dried fruit, and honey then replace the oxidative notes.
Galant des Abbesses rounds out the range in a truly distinctive way. This amber-colored fortified wine, made from Chardonnay and Savagnin and then aged for three years in oak barrels, follows an unchanged 25-spice recipe dating back to 1579. At 16% alcohol, it is one of the last living examples of medieval vin cuit and can be enjoyed either as an aperitif or with a spiced dessert. The house also makes the Jura’s essential specialties: a festive Crémant du Jura made by the traditional method, with beautifully fine bubbles; a sweet, concentrated Vin de Paille from grapes dried for several months on racks; a Macvin du Jura made by fortifying must with the estate’s marc; and a patiently barrel-aged Marc du Jura that completes this one-of-a-kind collection.
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