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Domaine Puffeney is one of the greatest historic names in the Jura vineyard, nestled in Montigny-les-Arsures, the capital of Trousseau at the heart of the Arbois appellation. Founded in 1962 by Jacques Puffeney, nicknamed the "Pope of Arbois", the estate established itself as a world reference thanks to wines of remarkable purity, authenticity and longevity. Since Jacques Puffeney's retirement in 2014, his wines and those from his small preserved plot remain sought after by collectors and sommeliers the world over.
The history of Domaine Puffeney is that of a man and a life devoted to the Jura. Jacques Puffeney, son of a vineyard worker from Montigny les Arsures, produced his first wine at the age of seventeen. In 1962, at just twenty years of age, he vinified his first vintage at the estate, producing only twelve hectolitres at the time. To earn a living, he worked in parallel as a "Comté salter", contributing to the making of the famous cheese of his region. Year after year, he patiently acquired plots, until he had assembled an estate of nearly 6 to 7 hectares, entirely within the Arbois appellation.
More than fifty harvests, unwavering rigour and exceptional mastery of the Jurassian grape varieties earned him the nickname "Pope of Arbois", bestowed by his peers. In 2014, on the eve of his seventieth year, Jacques Puffeney retired and ceded 4.25 hectares of vines to Domaine du Pélican, the property of the Marquis d'Angerville, the celebrated winemaker of Volnay in Burgundy. He nonetheless retained just over one hectare, a precious jewel which he shares with one of his nephews, Frédéric Puffeney. His bottles, now cult objects, are sought after the world over.
The historic vineyard of Domaine Puffeney rests on the magnificent marly terroirs of Montigny les Arsures, Arbois and Villette les Arbois. The soils, typically Jurassian in character, are composed essentially of blue and grey Lias marls, complemented by clay-limestone soils and stony scree. This singular geology, combined with the continental climate with a mountain tendency of the Jura, gives the wines their mineral identity, their tension and their virtually infinite ageing capacity.
The historic 6 to 7 hectares, spread across a dozen carefully selected plots, were home to the full range of Jura grape varieties: Savagnin and Chardonnay for the whites, Poulsard (or Ploussard), Trousseau and Pinot Noir for the reds. The Savagnin, planted on the deepest marl soils, is harvested at full maturity and constitutes the raw material for the estate's great Vins Jaunes. The Trousseau, the king grape of Montigny les Arsures, thrives on the south-facing gravelly soils of Les Bérangères. Work in the vineyard is traditional, following reasoned farming practices, with constant attention paid to respect for the soil and optimal grape maturity.
In the cellar, Jacques Puffeney has always practised the most traditional and natural winemaking possible. The harvest is entirely manual, with particular attention paid to the optimal maturity of the bunches. The grapes are then gently pressed, and fermentation takes place using indigenous yeasts, preserving the typically Jurassian strains. The work on the lees is carried out without débourbage, in a constant pursuit of authenticity.
The Savagnins are aged in old oak foudres, for as long as necessary to meet the exacting standards of the master of Vin Jaune. The veil — that film of yeast that forms on the surface of the wine during ageing without topping up — is truly magnified here. The veil-aged wines of Domaine Puffeney attain a quite exceptional complexity, where notes of green walnut, reinette apple, curry and spices intertwine with an almost immortal acidity. The wines are vinified without fining or filtration, and the addition of sulphur is kept to the strictest minimum.
Arbois Vin Jaune: the estate's mythic cuvée, crafted 100% from Savagnin aged under veil for six years and three months in oak barrels without topping up, following the great Jurassian tradition. A brilliant gold robe, a broad and highly aromatic nose of citrus, spices, walnut and reinette apple. A complete palate, all finesse, with infinite depth and an ageing potential of fifty years and beyond. An absolute pinnacle of the Jura.
Cuvée Sacha: a subtle blend of veil-aged Savagnin and Chardonnay, aged for approximately forty-eight months in 600-litre demi-muids with regular topping up of the Chardonnay. Vinification without sulphur, without filtration or fining. A brilliant gold robe, an elegant nose of fresh walnuts, white fruits, hazelnut and fine oxidative notes. A vibrant, saline and complex palate, with a long and expressive finish. A sought-after cuvée, perfect with refined dishes.
Trousseau Les Bérangères: the estate's emblematic cuvée, sourced from a south-facing plot on rich gravelly soils high in limestone and clay. Vinified as 100% Trousseau, it is aged for approximately eighteen months in large-format foudres. A clear ruby red robe, a complex nose of cherry, fresh red fruits, dried flowers, cocoa and subtle mineral notes. A delicate, lively palate with fine tannins and great purity. An absolute reference for Jurassian Trousseau.
Bérangères Blanc: a rare blend of Chardonnay (often 2015) and Savagnin (often 2013), born from the late-flowering genius of Jacques Puffeney. A straight, tense, saline wine with dense substance and a finish of great purity. A confidential bottle sought after by collectors.
Arbois Savagnin: a 100% Savagnin cuvée aged under veil for several years in old oak barrels. Golden yellow robe tending toward gold, a magnificent nose of dried fruits, reinette apple, walnut and citrus notes, wrapped in a subtle smoky woodiness. A linear palate, longer than wide, unctuous and almost oily, coating the mouth. Walnut dominates on the finish, in great aromatic complexity.
Arbois Chardonnay: a 100% topped-up Chardonnay cuvée, aged in oak barrels, perfectly expressing the freshness and tension of the Jurassian soils. The nose opens on aromas of white fruits (apple, pear) enhanced by a hint of citrus; the palate is straight, ample, supported by a beautiful acidity and marked by a very slight and elegant oxidative touch.
Poulsard "M": a cuvée of Poulsard (or Ploussard), an autochthonous grape variety with thin skin and a light robe. A clear and luminous wine, with a nose of fresh red fruits, wild strawberry and gentle spices, a gulpable, thirst-quenching and precise palate. A fine introduction to the world of Jura reds.
Arbois Pinot Noir: a 100% Pinot Noir cuvée, a tribute to the king grape of Burgundy interpreted in the Jurassian style. A deep robe, an intense nose of black fruits, small berries and blackcurrant liqueur, a palate structured by round, polished tannins. A wine for ageing, ideal with braised meats, pâté or strong cheeses.
Arbois Vieilles Vignes (red): a blend of the three autochthonous red grape varieties of the Jura — Trousseau, Poulsard and Pinot Noir — sourced from the estate's oldest vines. A clear ruby robe, a delicate nose of red fruits and spices, a refined, balanced and persistent palate. A timeless expression of the Jurassian grape varieties.
Vin de Paille: a rare and precious sweet wine from the estate, crafted from Savagnin, Poulsard and Trousseau grapes dried on racks for several weeks before pressing. An apricot-hued robe, an intensely aromatic nose of fig, candied apricot, honey, spices and clove. A round, harmonious, lightly candied palate, with a richness perfectly balanced by a superb acidity.
Macvin du Jura: a traditional Jura mistelle, based on fresh grape must fortified with Jura marc brandy, aged in barrels for more than a year. An amber robe, a nose of candied fruits, honey, spices and walnut, a sweet, unctuous and warming palate. To be enjoyed as an aperitif, with foie gras or chocolate desserts.
L'Oubliée: a confidential cuvée of Savagnin aged under veil for three years, launched experimentally by Jacques Puffeney. A singular wine that sits between a classic Savagnin and a Vin Jaune, with measured oxidative complexity and great finesse. A rare bottle, the fruit of the inventiveness of the Pope of Arbois.
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