Puffeney

History of Domaine Puffeney

The history of Domaine Puffeney is that of a man and a life dedicated to the Jura. Jacques Puffeney, son of a vineyard worker from Montigny les Arsures, made his first wine at the age of seventeen. In 1962, at only twenty years old, he vinified his first vintage at the estate, producing just twelve hectolitres at the time. To earn a living, he worked in parallel as a "Comté salter", participating in the making of the famous cheese of his region. Year after year, he patiently acquired plots, eventually building up domaine de nearly 6 to 7 hectares, exclusively under the Arbois appellation.

More than fifty harvests, unwavering rigour and an exceptional mastery of Jurassian grape varieties earned him the nickname "Pope of Arbois", bestowed by his peers. In 2014, on the eve of his seventieth birthday, Jacques Puffeney retired and sold 4.25 hectares of vines to the Domaine du Pélican, the property of the Marquis d'Angerville, the celebrated winemaker from Volnay in Burgundy. He nonetheless retained just over one hectare, a precious jewel which he shares with one of his nephews, Frédéric Puffeney. His bottles, which have become cult objects, are today sought after the world over.

Terroirs and Vines of Domaine Puffeney

The historic vineyard of Domaine Puffeney rests on the magnificent marly terroirs of Montigny les Arsures, Arbois and Villette les Arbois. The soils, typically Jurassian in character, consist essentially of blue and grey Liassic marls, complemented by clay-limestone soils and stony scree. This singular geology, combined with the continental climate with a mountainous tendency of the Jura, gives the wines their mineral identity, their tension and their virtually infinite ageing potential.

The historic 6 to 7 hectares, spread across a dozen carefully selected plots, hosted the full range of Jura grape varieties: Savagnin and Chardonnay for the whites, Poulsard (or Ploussard), Trousseau and Pinot Noir for the reds. The Savagnin, planted on the deepest marl soils, is harvested at full ripeness and constitutes the raw material for the estate's great Vins Jaunes. The Trousseau, the king grape variety of Montigny les Arsures, flourishes on the gravelly south-facing soils of Les Bérangères. Vineyard work is traditional, following reasoned farming practices, with constant attention paid to respecting the soil and achieving optimal grape ripeness.

Winemaking at Domaine Puffeney

In the cellar, Jacques Puffeney has always practised the most traditional and natural winemaking possible. Harvesting is entirely manual, with particular attention paid to the optimal ripeness of the bunches. The grapes are then gently pressed, and fermentation takes place using indigenous yeasts, preserving the typically Jurassian strains. Lees work is carried out without racking, in a constant pursuit of authenticity.

The Savagnins are aged in old oak foudres, for as long as necessary to meet the exacting standards of the master of Vin Jaune. The veil — that film of yeast which forms on the surface of the wine during ageing without topping up — is here truly magnified. The wines aged under veil at Domaine Puffeney achieve a quite exceptional complexity, where notes of green walnut, reinette apple, curry and spices intermingle with an almost immortal acidity. The wines are made without fining or filtration, and the addition of sulphur is kept to the strict minimum.

The cuvées of Domaine Puffeney

Arbois Vin Jaune: the estate's mythical cuvée, made from 100% Savagnin aged under a veil for six years and three months in oak barrels without topping up, following the great Jurassian tradition. Brilliant golden colour, broad and highly aromatic nose of citrus fruits, spices, walnut and reinette apple. Complete palate, all finesse, of infinite depth with an ageing potential of fifty years and beyond. An absolute pinnacle of the Jura.

Cuvée Sacha: a subtle blend of Savagnin aged under a veil and Chardonnay, aged for approximately forty-eight months in 600-litre demi-muids with regular topping up on the Chardonnay. Vinification without sulphur, without filtration or fining. Brilliant golden colour, elegant nose of fresh walnuts, white fruits, hazelnut and fine oxidative notes. Vibrant, saline and complex palate, long and expressive finish. A sought-after cuvée, perfect with refined dishes.

Trousseau Les Bérangères: the estate's emblematic cuvée, sourced from a south-facing plot on rich gravelly soils high in limestone and clay. Vinified as 100% Trousseau, it is aged for approximately eighteen months in large-format foudres. Clear ruby red colour, complex nose of cherry, fresh red fruits, dried flowers, cocoa and subtle mineral notes. Delicate, lively palate with fine tannins and great purity. An absolute reference for Jurassian Trousseau.

Bérangères Blanc: a rare blend of Chardonnay (often 2015) and Savagnin (often 2013), born of Jacques Puffeney's late-career genius. A straight, tense, saline wine with dense substance and a finish of great purity. A confidential bottle sought after by collectors.

Arbois Savagnin: a 100% Savagnin cuvée aged under a veil for several years in old oak barrels. Golden-yellow colour, magnificent nose of dried fruits, reinette apple, walnut and citrus notes, wrapped in a subtle woody smokiness. Long and linear on the palate, more vertical than broad, unctuous and almost oily, coating the entire palate. Walnut dominates on the finish, with great aromatic complexity.

Arbois Chardonnay: a 100% topped-up Chardonnay cuvée, aged in oak barrels, which perfectly expresses the freshness and tension of Jurassian soils. The nose opens on aromas of white fruits (apple, pear) lifted by a hint of citrus, the palate is straight, ample, supported by a fine acidity and marked by a very slight and elegant oxidative touch.

Poulsard "M": a cuvée of Poulsard (or Ploussard), a native grape variety with thin skin and a light colour. A clear and luminous wine, with a nose of fresh red fruits, wild strawberry and gentle spices, and a gulpable, thirst-quenching and precise palate. A beautiful introduction to the world of Jura reds.

Arbois Pinot Noir: a 100% Pinot Noir cuvée, a tribute to the king grape variety of Burgundy interpreted in the Jurassian style. Deep colour, intense nose of dark fruits, small berries and blackcurrant liqueur, palate structured by round and polished tannins. A wine for ageing, ideal with meat in sauce, pâté or characterful cheeses.

Arbois Vieilles Vignes (red): a blend of the three native red grape varieties of the Jura — Trousseau, Poulsard and Pinot Noir — sourced from the estate's oldest vines. Clear ruby colour, delicate nose of red fruits and spices, fine, balanced and persistent palate. A timeless expression of the Jurassian grape varieties.

Vin de Paille: a rare and precious sweet wine from the estate, made from Savagnin, Poulsard and Trousseau grapes dried on straw racks for several weeks before pressing. Apricot colour, intensely aromatic nose of fig, candied apricot, honey, spices and clove. Round, harmonious palate, lightly candied, with richness perfectly balanced by a superb acidity.

Macvin du Jura: a traditional Jura mistelle, made from fresh grape must mutted with Jura marc brandy, aged in barrel for more than a year. Amber colour, nose of candied fruits, honey, spices and walnut, sweet, unctuous and warming palate. To be enjoyed as an aperitif, with foie gras or chocolate desserts.

L'Oubliée: a confidential cuvée of Savagnin aged under a veil for three years, launched on an experimental basis by Jacques Puffeney. A singular wine situated between classic Savagnin and Vin Jaune, with measured oxidative complexity and great finesse. A rare bottle, the fruit of the Pope of Arbois's inventiveness.