La Chevalerie Bourgueil Busardières 2014
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Domaine de la Chevalerie is one of the most emblematic and respected estates in the Bourgueil appellation, in the Val de Loire. Established in Restigné since 1640, this 33-hectare estate is the historic stronghold of the Caslot family, whose fourteenth generation, embodied by Laurie and Emmanuel Caslot, continues today a winemaking tradition nearly four centuries old. Farmed using organic and biodynamic practices, the estate draws its singularity from a single contiguous vineyard with multiple geological identities, expressed through six distinct single-parcel cuvées, all made from Cabernet Franc: Galichets, Chevalerie, Bretêche, Busardières, Peu Muleau and Grand Mont. As Pierre Caslot, the modern founder of the estate, once put it: "our bourgueils are as frank as our cabernets, as deep as our cellars, and always full of pleasure in their youth."
The history of the domaine de la Chevalerie dates back to 1640, when an ancestor named Pierre Caslot began cultivating vines on the lieu-dit Chevalerie, in Restigné. The name of the estate is taken directly from this lieu-dit, which at the time referred to an inn or a horse relay. Family archives attest to a continuous presence of the Caslot family in Bourgueil since the 17th century, making the estate one of the oldest wine-producing properties in the region. Over thirteen generations, each one has contributed to deepening the knowledge of the plots, mastering the terroirs, and building the estate's growing reputation.
It is Pierre Caslot, a colorful and passionate figure, who gave the estate its contemporary form and national reputation. He developed the range of single-vineyard cuvées, built relationships with wine merchants and enthusiasts, and passed on to his children a clear philosophy: put the plot at the center, respect the terroir, and produce wines that are both deep and pleasurable. Pierre Caslot passed away in 2014. His daughter Stéphanie, who carried the estate with energy and talent, tragically left us in 2021. Since 2022, Laurie and Emmanuel Caslot, brother and sister, have together managed the estate, continuing the biodynamic conversion already underway, and ensuring that each cuvée remains a faithful reflection of its terroir.
The vineyard of the Domaine de la Chevalerie spans 33 hectares, principally in the commune of Restigné, with one plot in Benais (Grand Mont), within a radius of less than 3 kilometers from the estate. Although forming a single contiguous block, this vineyard displays a remarkable geological diversity. The soils range from alluvial sand (lighter, promoting fruity and pleasurable wines in their youth, such as the Galichets) to clay and aeolian sands over Turonian yellow tuffeau (Busardières and Bretêche cuvées), through clays richer in micaceous chalk particles (Chevalerie), up to the heavier argilo-calcareous terroirs of the plateau for the longest-aging cuvées (Peu Muleau, Grand Mont). Tuffeau, the soft limestone rock characteristic of the Saumurois and Bourgueillois, is the common thread running through all these terroirs.
The vines, averaging 30 to 70 years of age, count among the oldest plots the Busardières (35 years), while the Grand Mont and Peu Muleau plots shelter some of the oldest vines on the estate. The oldest rootstocks date from 1903 and 1922. Exposure is generally southwest on the hillsides of Restigné, with slight variation depending on the lieu-dit. The entire vineyard is farmed organically and is undergoing biodynamic conversion, with treatments based on copper, sulfur, and biodynamic preparations.
Winemaking at the Domaine de la Chevalerie is traditional and respectful of the fruit. Alcoholic fermentations take place in temperature-controlled concrete and stainless steel vats, with macerations of 22 to 28 days for the aging cuvées, allowing for a gentle and harmonious extraction of tannins and aromas from the Cabernet Franc. Aging then takes place in concrete vats, in old oak demi-muids for 6 to 10 months for the intermediate cuvées, and for longer periods in barrels or foudres for the top cuvées. A major distinguishing feature of the estate: the final refinement takes place in bottle in the kilometers of cellars carved into the tuffeau, naturally temperature-regulated at 12°C, prior to release. This cellar aging imparts a remarkable silkiness of texture and depth to the wines.
Pierre Caslot had developed a highly educational tasting protocol: the single-vineyard cuvées are presented in a precise order, from the lightest to the most structured, to illustrate the progression of the estate's terroirs. This didactic approach has remained a hallmark of the estate, which Laurie and Emmanuel perpetuate with the same passion.
Bourgueil Galichets: The first cuvée in the single-vineyard range, produced from vines planted on the lightest alluvial sandy soils of the estate, of which a sandy portion gives a more pleasurable and approachable profile. This is the introductory cuvée, straightforward and honest, crafted for young drinking, focused on the fruit. A nose of fresh red berries, a supple and light palate with lovely freshness, fine and integrated tannins. To be enjoyed within 3 to 5 years, with charcuterie or light meat dishes. The texture is at once fleshy and fresh, with the racy, saline acidity typical of tuffeau.
Bourgueil Chevalerie: The eponymous cuvée of the estate, produced from the lieu-dit Chevalerie itself, on clay soils rich in micaceous chalk particles, located around the estate. Vinification in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats with maceration of 22 to 28 days, aging in oak demi-muids for 6 to 10 months, followed by refinement in bottle in the tuffeau cellars. A nose of dark fruit aromas (morello cherry, black cherry) with notes of pepper and spice. A balanced palate, more complex than the Galichets, with fine density and several years of aging potential. The quintessential food wine of the estate.
Bourgueil Bretêche: A single-vineyard cuvée from the lieu-dit Bretêche, located to the east toward Ingrandes-de-Touraine, on soils of clay and aeolian sands above Turonian yellow tuffeau. A terroir close in nature to the Busardières, but oriented differently on the hillside. A red wine of fine structure and depth, with aromas of dark fruits, spices, and a well-present calcareous minerality. Aging potential of 8 to 12 years. A cuvée regularly awarded by the specialist press, including the Revue du Vin de France with 90 points.
Bourgueil Busardières: A single-vineyard cuvée from the lieu-dit Busardières, a 2-hectare plot situated at elevation on the hillside, just below the Peu Muleau, on soils of clay and aeolian sands above yellow tuffeau. The vines are approximately 35 years old. This is the only estate to lay claim to this lieu-dit. A red wine of great finesse and a cold austerity characteristic of high-altitude tuffeau terroirs, with a magnificent silkiness of texture, aromas of dark fruits and spices, and an aging potential of several decades. The 1996 vintage already demonstrated, at 25 years in bottle, a very deep color with no sign of evolution and perfectly integrated tannins.
Bourgueil Peu Muleau: A cuvée of great prestige from the lieu-dit Peu Muleau, situated at altitude on the hillside of Restigné, just above the Busardières. The soils, more clayey and closer to the plateau, yield wines of exceptional concentration and structure. An absolute aging cuvée, capable of spanning several decades under good storage conditions. The Revue du Vin de France regularly awards it high scores and cites it among the great cuvées of the Loire. A rich and structured wine, not to be opened before a minimum of 10 to 15 years.
Bourgueil Grand Mont: A single-vineyard cuvée from the prestigious lieu-dit Grand Mont in Benais, approximately 2.5 kilometers northwest of the estate. Grand Mont is one of the most renowned terroirs in the entire Bourgueil appellation, with richly argilo-calcareous soils on a hillside with full southern exposure. This is the flagship cuvée of the estate, receiving every possible attention both in the vineyard and in the cellar. A red wine of incomparable depth and complexity, destined to last several decades. It is difficult to find its equal anywhere in the Loire Valley.
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