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In Laroin, just 6 kilometres from Pau, in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques, Domaine de Souch is the passionate work of a legendary figure of South-West viticulture, Yvonne Hégoburu (1928–2023). Widowed at 60 in 1986, she decided to plant vines in memory of her husband René on the land of a former farm dating from 1807, located on the site of a historic vineyard belonging in the seventeenth century to Jean de Souch. A pioneer of biodynamics in Jurançon from 1994, she elevated her 6.8-hectare estate (facing the Pyrenees range and the Pic du Midi d'Ossau) to the status of an absolute reference in the appellation. Today, her son Jean-René perpetuates her work alongside Emmanuel Jecker, producing dry, medium-sweet and sweet Jurançon wines of remarkable purity and identity (Sec, Cuvée Marie Kattalin, Mary, Manon).
The history of the Domaine de Souch is one of the most moving in French viticulture. In 1963, René and Yvonne Hégoburu purchased an old farmhouse dating from 1807, located just 6 kilometres from Pau, which they restored together to make their family home. They were unaware at the time that this property stood on the land of a historic vineyard planted in the 17th century, formerly owned by one Jean de Souch, whose name would later give the estate its name. The couple had always dreamed of planting their own vines, but René passed away before this project could become a reality. It was alone, past the age of 60, that Yvonne decided to honour her husband's memory by planting.
Assisted by Abel Pirès, her head viticulturist, Yvonne undertook titanic works: terraces carved out by bulldozer on vertiginous slopes, planting of 20,000 stakes to trellis her 6 hectares of vines, purchase of all the winemaking equipment, and fitting out of the cellars. The first vintage was released in 1990 and immediately won a prize in Paris. Buoyed by this success, Yvonne discovered biodynamics after reading a publication at a railway station and switched to biodynamics as early as 1994, becoming a pioneer in the appellation. The estate quickly gained a reputation as one of the finest Jurançon producers, even THE finest, as the grande dame liked to say. Yvonne, whose radiant personality shines through in every cuvée, appeared in the celebrated documentary Mondovino. She passed away in 2023 at the age of 95, having handed the estate over to her son Jean-René in 2014, who carries on her work with Emmanuel Jecker in the same absolute philosophy of respect for living things.
The vineyard extends over 6.8 hectares (sometimes 7) in the commune of Laroin, in the northern part of the Jurançon appellation, at the foot of the Pyrenees. The vines are arranged in terraces on vertiginous slopes, at approximately 300 to 350 metres of altitude, facing the majestic Pyrenean mountain range with the Pic du Midi d'Ossau in the line of sight. This exceptional exposure, combined with a microclimate marked by southerly winds (the famous foehn wind) that dry out the berries in the late season, is one of the secrets behind the quality of the estate's sweet Jurançon wines.
The soils are characteristic of the northern part of the appellation: clay-limestone composed of Jurançon pudding stones (silico-clayey) and, for a small portion, red clays rich in iron oxide. This geological mosaic, perched at 332 metres, gives the wines a unique mineral and tangy signature. The grape varieties are traditional to Jurançon: 60% Gros Manseng, 30% Petit Manseng and 10% Petit Courbu, emblematic varieties of the appellation. The estate has been farmed organically and biodynamically since 1994, with rigorous soil work, meticulous manual harvesting through successive tries and deliberately very low yields, guaranteeing remarkable aromatic concentration and purity.
In the cellar, the philosophy of Yvonne Hégoburu, carried on today by her son Jean-René and Emmanuel Jecker, is one of minimal intervention. Yvonne liked to say that she "let Mother Nature do her work." No chaptalization (addition of sugar) is practised, in strict respect of the grapes and the vintage. Fermentations are conducted solely with the indigenous yeasts native to the grapes, with no addition of selected yeasts, allowing each cuvée to fully express the singularity of its terroir and its year.
For the Jurançon Sec, ageing is carried out half in barrel with regular lees stirring, and half in temperature-controlled stainless steel tank, then blended one month before bottling. This dual approach brings the wine the complexity of oak and the freshness of stainless steel, in perfect balance. For the sweet and dessert Jurançon wines, the grapes are harvested very late, through successive tries, when the foehn wind and natural passerillage have concentrated the sugars to their maximum. Long fermentation at low temperature, without additions, aged in barrels. The wines are neither fined nor filtered beyond what is strictly necessary, in a logic of absolute transparency. The result is a recognisable signature: Jurançon wines of mineral purity, strong identity and perfect balance, among the most sought-after in the appellation.
Jurançon Sec: the iconic white AOC Jurançon cuvée, crafted from a blend of Gros Manseng (60%), Petit Manseng (30%) and Petit Courbu (10%) sourced from 3 hectares of vines planted on silico-clayey pudding stones at 332 metres of altitude. Half aged in barrel with lees stirring, half in stainless steel tank, then blended. Straw-yellow colour with golden highlights, expressive nose with notes of apricot, passion fruit and citrus. Palate of remarkable acidity (despite malolactic fermentation having taken place), a light bitterness that adds complexity, perfect balance. Ideal as an aperitif or with delicate fish dishes with lemon.
Jurançon Moelleux Cuvée de Souch: the estate's classic sweet cuvée, crafted from Petit Manseng and Gros Manseng harvested late, through successive tries, on the clay-limestone hillsides. Brilliant golden colour, expressive nose with notes of exotic fruits, mango, candied apricot and white flowers. Silky and indulgent palate, with sweetness perfectly balanced by great acidity, long and fresh finish. An absolute reference for Jurançon sweet wines.
Jurançon Cuvée Marie Kattalin: the estate's flagship sweet wine, crafted from Petit Manseng sourced from late tries. Deep golden colour, complex and captivating nose with notes of exotic fruits, honey, dried flowers and candied citrus peel. Dense palate with great tension that admirably balances the richness. A cuvée of strong character, fresh and incredibly well balanced, acclaimed by wine lovers and Michelin-starred chefs alike (notably Bertrand Delanoë, former Mayor of Paris).
Jurançon Cuvée Mary: a sweet cuvée in feminine homage, crafted from Petit Manseng harvested very late. An even more concentrated expression than the Cuvée de Souch, revealing the full aromatic richness of the grape variety: candied fruits, honey and dried flowers, accompanied by great acidic tension that prevents any heaviness. A refined cuvée, ideal with foie gras or fruit-based desserts.
Jurançon Cuvée Manon: an exceptional and confidential dessert wine from the estate, produced only in the very greatest vintages from Petit Manseng harvested late, when the berries naturally raisin under the effect of the foehn wind. Deep golden colour, sumptuous nose of grilled pineapple, candied apricot, honey and gentle spices. Palate of great concentration, silky and long, balanced by the estate's characteristic acidic signature. A great Jurançon dessert wine, for exceptional moments.
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