Maison des Saules

History of the Maison des Saules

The story of the Maison des Saules, literally the House of Willows in French, begins with two wine enthusiasts from the Jura who followed unconventional paths before returning to their roots. Marc Lacroix and Anne-Cécile Daubigney met at the Lycée Hôtelier de Poligny, a prestigious Jurassian hospitality school, where they trained as sommeliers. Their professional paths then took them far from their home region. Anne-Cécile went to work as a sommelier at a superb restaurant in Paris, restaurant Papillon, where she discovered and deepened her affection for natural wines and great French wines. Marc worked as a sommelier at Anne-Sophie Pic in Valence, a restaurant with three Michelin stars, an exceptional formative experience in contact with gastronomic excellence. The adventure then took Marc to London and then to Ecuador, where he worked on a farm producing coffee, discovering respectful agriculture and natural cycles far removed from wine, yet all the more formative for it. A passion for natural wine and a desire to return to the land gradually drew them back to their native Jura. Back in France during the Covid period, Marc seized the opportunity to work with Thomas Pico at the Domaine de Pattes Loup in Chablis, Burgundy, for several years. A defining apprenticeship alongside this recognized Burgundian winemaker, who has mastered natural vinification and long aging to perfection. At the same time, Anne-Cécile spent three years with François Rousset-Martin, an absolute Jurassian reference established close to Château-Chalon. There, she worked with great freedom of action, engaging directly with the wine as it came into being. François Rousset-Martin passed on to her a traditional Jurassian know-how combined with radical natural approaches. In 2022, Marc took the decisive step of creating the Maison des Saules with the first vintage from the first plots near Lons-le-Saunier and L'Étoile. An adventure that suited him perfectly, on the Jura soils he so dearly loves. Working simultaneously on their respective apprenticeships at Pico and Rousset-Martin while building their own estate, Marc and Anne-Cécile demonstrated exceptional determination and ambition. In July 2024, Anne-Cécile definitively joined Marc full-time at the Maison des Saules. Together, they formed a close-knit duo driven by a love of wine and the Jurassian terroir, ready to reveal the best of these lands. In 2024, they committed fully to the development of their estate, bringing the surface area to approximately five hectares with cellars in Perrigny and Chille.

Terroirs and Vines of the Maison des Saules

The vineyards of the Maison des Saules extend over approximately five hectares, strategically distributed across three Jura communes: Villeneuve-sous-Pymont, Savagna, and L'Étoile. This geographic diversity offers a mosaic of complementary terroirs allowing varied expressions of the grape varieties. The plots rest primarily on grey Lias marl terroirs, clay-limestone soils characteristic of the Jura that give the wines their vibrant minerality and unique tension. Certain plots also feature a more pronounced clay component, bringing greater structure and aging potential. The vineyards are situated on amphitheater-shaped hillsides, an exceptional geological configuration favoring optimal sunlight exposure and natural drainage. Certain steep hillsides oriented due east, such as the Sous les Grands Prés plot, benefit from intense morning sunlight that encourages progressive ripening and preserves natural acidity. The westward exposure of other plots, such as the one producing La Madeleine, imparts richness, texture, and a more ample character while retaining Jurassian freshness. The estate has the particular distinction of focusing almost exclusively on two noble white grape varieties: chardonnay and savagnin. This deliberate choice allows for absolute mastery of the vinification of these two varieties rather than dispersing efforts across multiple grape varieties. Chardonnay, the Burgundian grape variety also historically established in the Jura, finds here a taut mineral expression with beautiful fruit ripeness. Savagnin, the quintessential indigenous Jurassian grape variety, receives particular attention with a focus on long, traditional aging. Currently, 2.6 hectares are in effective production, with the remaining plots progressively coming into production in the years ahead. Marc and Anne-Cécile are carefully rejuvenating the vineyards, replanting plots where necessary and allowing nature to quietly reclaim its rights over tired soils before replanting. They even incorporated a new orchard within the estate, a testament to their holistic and environmentally respectful approach. All the vines are cultivated under certified organic farming with the progressive adoption of biodynamic practices. Although official biodynamic certification is in progress, many principles are already applied daily: biodynamic preparations 500 and 501, respect for lunar cycles in viticultural work, natural cover cropping to encourage biodiversity, and the complete absence of herbicides and chemical pesticides. Meticulous manual work in the vineyards, exclusively manual harvesting allowing optimal selective sorting. A philosophy firmly rooted in respect for nature and the desire to produce deeply living wines. Every gesture guided by attentive observation of the vines and their environment, constant questioning of optimal practices, and humility in the face of natural forces. Terroir is everything in this region, and Marc and Anne-Cécile are fully aware of this, doing everything in their power to let the purity of these exceptional Jurassian grey marls express itself.

Vinifications of the Maison des Saules

The winemaking philosophy of the Maison des Saules rests on a patient, natural approach that favors long aging without unnecessary intervention. In the cellar located in Perrigny, Anne-Cécile and Marc vinify without any oenological inputs, rigorously experimenting with aging durations for their wines. The grapes are harvested exclusively by hand at optimal ripeness, allowing plot-by-plot selective sorting. Direct pressing immediately after harvest, a gentle technique that preserves the aromatic integrity of the fruit and avoids premature oxidation. The musts are transferred directly into old barrels where spontaneous alcoholic fermentation takes place thanks to naturally present indigenous yeasts. No commercial selected yeasts, no enzymes, no chemical additives. Slow, natural fermentations that can last several weeks or even several months depending on cellar temperatures and yeast activity. Cellar work carried out naturally and patiently, cuvée by cuvée, without rushing. Aging forms the heart of the house philosophy. The white wines benefit from long aging of 24 to 36 months on fine lees in old neutral oak barrels. These ancient vessels, sometimes centuries old, provide beneficial micro-oxygenation without marking the wine with dominant wood character. Regular topping up for wines that must remain fresh and taut. For savagnins destined for a more oxidative style, the possibility of aging under a veil for several years according to Jurassian tradition. Marc and Anne-Cécile compose their cuvées by blending several barrels, as each one possesses its own characteristics that they have been able to observe during regular tastings throughout the aging process. The final blend is realized only after complete maturation, seeking a perfect balance between the different barrels. This plot-by-plot, barrel-by-barrel approach allows for a fineness of adjustment impossible with single-vat aging. The wines are never fined, rarely filtered, and when light filtration proves necessary, it remains minimal so as to preserve the integrity of the wine's structure. No flash pasteurization or other impoverishing physical treatments. Sulfites are used homeopathically only at bottling if absolutely necessary for stabilization, with certain cuvées being entirely without added sulfur. The result: deeply living natural wines presenting remarkable complexity and finesse. The wines are precise, vibrant, and beautifully deep, elegantly reflecting the Jurassian terroir. Freshness, minerality, and subtle aromas characterize the production. Although primarily focused on chardonnay and savagnin, Marc and Anne-Cécile have also produced a few red cuvées, demonstrating a desire to explore different expressions, notably the Aux Barres cuvée blending poulsard, trousseau, and pinot noir. For cuvées destined for younger consumption, shortened aging of twelve months allows for wines brimming with freshness while retaining the elaborate character that is the house signature.

The cuvées of the Maison des Saules

La Madeleine is the estate's emblematic chardonnay cuvée, a true oenological madeleine de Proust. Produced from one hundred percent chardonnay sourced from young vines grown on grey marls and clays with a westward exposure. A blend of several plots on Lias marl terroir in Villeneuve-sous-Pymont. Direct pressing followed by aging on lees in old barrels for twelve months. Second vintage, eight barrels blended to produce a highly expressive wine with a magnificent palate balance combining volume and tension. Pale gold color, slightly hazy, testifying to the absence of excessive filtration. Nose of lemon zest, smoke, that fine reduction often found in Jura whites. Floral notes, English candy. With its westward exposure and twelve months of aging in used oak, the wine is rich, textured, and savory, with notes of peach. A palate patinated by aging, enveloping beautiful substance and well-integrated acidity. A wine brimming with freshness. Full-bodied yet fresh, taut, and dynamic. Lemons and apples come to the fore with vibrant minerality. Very digestible and energetic. A wine that can be enjoyed young for the precision of its aromas, but also a wine of great aging potential capable of evolving harmoniously for a minimum of ten years.

Sous les Grands Prés represents the most ambitious chardonnay cuvée, benefiting from an extended aging process. One hundred percent chardonnay grown on Lias marl terroir. Steep hillside oriented due east, providing intense morning sunlight. Direct pressing followed by aging on lees in old barrels for twenty-four months, a full two years. This extended maturation imparts exceptional complexity and depth. Deep yellow color. Very open, rich nose, featuring white and yellow fruits with a slightly buttery quality. Beautiful power, length, and tension. First encounters going very well according to tasters. A finely textured wine requiring a short hour of opening to fully blossom. A great Jura chardonnay capable of rivaling the finest whites of the region.

Au Poirier is the estate's one hundred percent savagnin cuvée. Lias marl terroir, the lieu-dit Au Poirier Doré lending a poetic name to the cuvée. Direct pressing followed by aging on lees in old barrels for twenty-two months. A natural wine with no added sulfur. The estate is growing in stature with this remarkable savagnin. A wine requiring a short hour of opening before reaching its full expression. A finely textured juice, with a slightly peaty quality of considerable elegance, reminiscent of calvados, baked apple, and tarte tatin. None of the caricatural cider-apple character found in some natural wines — here it is classy, with something almost Champagne-like about it. A chiseled, mineral attack. Beautiful length. With just a touch more tension and power, it would cross into exceptional territory. Very, very good according to knowledgeable enthusiasts. A precise style elegantly reflecting the Jurassian terroir renowned for its clay-limestone soils.

B.A.Ba is a confidential red cuvée produced from gamay, a Burgundian grape variety also marginally cultivated in the Jura. Very limited production, reflecting Marc and Anne-Cécile's desire to explore different expressions beyond the whites that form the heart of their production. A light red wine typical of Jurassian gamay, with freshness and easy-drinking charm.

Aux Barres is an original red blend cuvée planted on the same plot in Savagna. Fifty percent poulsard, twenty-five percent trousseau, twenty-five percent pinot noir. Aging in old barrels for eight months. A harmonious blend of three typical Jurassian red grape varieties offering remarkable aromatic complexity. Poulsard brings characteristic lightness and floral finesse, trousseau imparts spicy structure and assertive character, pinot noir contributes velvety roundness and fruity depth. A rare cuvée produced in extremely limited quantities, with sales often limited to one bottle per order, complemented by three other wines with no purchase restrictions, as demand far exceeds production.