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The wines of the domaine des Marnes Blanches by Pauline and Géraud Fromont: a fine organic estate to follow in the Jura
The domaine des MARNES BLANCHES is an estate located in Sainte Agnès in the Jura, founded by Pauline and Géraud Fromont in 2006. With around ten hectares of vines taken over in the Sud Revermont, the vineyard is divided into 3 plots: Cesancey, Vincelles, and Sainte Agnès. The Cesancey parcels were the first to be acquired and are characterized by a terroir of white marls — it is therefore quite naturally from there that the estate takes its name.
Pauline, from Arbois, and Géraud Fromont, from Besançon, met in the early 2000s while studying for a vocational qualification in viticulture and enology in Davayé, in the Mâconnais. Neither was destined for a life among the vines, though vineyards were never far away: Géraud’s grandparents owned a few acres, and Pauline’s parents have plots near Arbois. Both went on to earn enology degrees, Pauline in Dijon and Géraud in Reims. Their internships taught them rigor, but also what they were determined not to do: use additives to adjust the wines until the terroir disappeared.
In 2008, Géraud settled in Cesancey after acquiring a contiguous 4-hectare vineyard planted with the Jura’s five principal grape varieties. The Quatre Vis area, with its white Lias marl soils, would give the estate its name. Pauline joined him in 2011 after several years advising on winemaking in southern France. The couple then rented and purchased more plots in Sainte-Agnès and Vincelles before taking over vineyards in Arbois and L’Étoile in 2022. Certified organic since 2013 and members of the Le Nez dans le Vert association, they draw inspiration from their neighbors Jean-François Ganevat and Pascal Clairet and are now recognized as a leading name in Jura natural wines.
The vineyards cover around fifteen hectares in several separate areas: Cesancey, Sainte-Agnès and Vincelles, plus plots in Arbois and L’Étoile. Cesancey is dominated by the renowned white Lias marl, a cool, deep soil that produces floral, full-bodied, saline whites. Sainte-Agnès and Vincelles have red Triassic marl and, above all, clay-limestone soils rich in Gryphaea fossils. The shells of these fossil oysters litter the ground and lend the wines an immediately recognizable mineral tension. Other plots sit on clay with chert or limestone scree.
Chardonnay accounts for about half the vines, Savagnin for a quarter, with the remainder divided among Poulsard, Trousseau and Pinot Noir. The vines average around 40 years old, with some plots over a century old and precious old varieties: aromatic Savagnin, green and yellow Savagnin interplanted together, Melon à Queue Rouge and white Poulsard, often propagated through massal selection. Grass grows between the rows, the soils are cultivated and all harvesting is done by hand, in a minimalist approach attentive to living ecosystems, strongly inspired by biodynamic principles without claiming certification.
Each variety and each plot is vinified separately, as at the great Burgundy estates. Pressing is slow and gentle, and fermentation begins with indigenous yeasts, without chaptalization, acidification or fining. For the reds, gentle whole-cluster infusion replaces extraction during short macerations of eight to ten days, preserving the pale colors and delicate aromas of Jura varieties. Several cuvées are bottled without any added sulfur; the others receive tiny doses, mainly to protect the wine from oxidative shock during bottling.
No new oak is ever used for aging, which takes place in a wide variety of vessels: large oak casks, demi-muids, 228-liter Burgundy barrels, 500-liter barrels, concrete eggs and amphorae. Aging lasts from ten months to more than three years, depending on the plot. The estate produces two styles of white wine: topped-up wines, protected from air to reveal the identity of each terroir, and wines aged under a veil of yeast without topping up, in the traditional Jura style.
Chardonnay Les Molates: grown on high-altitude white marl, this topped-up Chardonnay combines breadth, supple texture and complexity. Ripe yellow fruit, candied citrus, pastry notes and balsamic accents lead to a persistent, saline finish. A food-friendly white that will appeal to lovers of Burgundy wines.
Chardonnay En Quatre Vis: the estate’s birthplace in Cesancey, on white Lias marl, with vines around 50 years old. Long aging in large oak casks produces a wine that is both dense and airy, sensual, with an intense spicy backbone and a natural salinity that lengthens the finish.
Chardonnay En Levrette: a high-altitude plot planted in 1963 in Vincelles on Gryphaea-bearing limestone, with the wine aged on its lees for around eleven months. A vertical, crystalline wine with notes of crushed stone, Granny Smith apple, candied lemon, quince jelly and anise. Striking purity.
Chardonnay Les Normins: from Cesancey’s oldest vines, around 75 years old, and aged for some 22 months. Breathtakingly complex, it combines a buttery texture and acidic backbone with yellow fruit, candied citrus, exotic spices and peaty accents, leading to a spectacularly long finish.
Chardonnay La Combette: one of the newest single-plot cuvées, from a late-ripening site with clay and chert soils. Its fruit expression is open and lively, wrapped in creamy notes, while ginger and citrus zest sustain the palate’s energy.
Chardonnay Au Rettin and Savagnin Au Rettin: two interpretations of L’Étoile’s Triassic marl terroir. The Chardonnay, aged for more than thirty months in demi-muids, is structured, taut and deep. The Savagnin, aged at length in barrels, offers a saline signature, candied citrus, roasted pineapple and a parade of spices.
Savagnin Les Molates: a blend of plots in Sainte-Agnès, aged for about ten months in a large oak cask. This vibrant, topped-up Savagnin strikes a balance between exuberance and finesse, with white and yellow fruit steeped in spice, mandarin, honey, hazelnut and minty herbs.
Savagnin En Quatre Vis: from vines planted in 1958 in Cesancey, vinified and aged for around 22 months in a large oak cask and a concrete egg. A true food wine, lively and deep, bringing together white flowers, stone fruit, candied citrus, buttery notes and hints of flint.
Savagnin Aux Bois: a rare terroir combining gray marl and limestone scree, planted with massal selections of green and yellow Savagnin. A delicious concentration of stone fruit, pineapple, candied citrus, marzipan and hazelnut, carried by a mineral backbone with peaty accents.
Savagnin En Jensillard: the range’s most distinctive cuvée, from an old massal selection of aromatic Savagnin vines around 60 years old. Short aging preserves heady aromas of rose, orange blossom, lychee, mango and pomelo without sacrificing its lively acidity.
Savagnin Sur le Muant: a topped-up Savagnin from a vineyard north of Rotalier where yellow and green Savagnin grow together on clay-limestone soils. Three years of barrel aging yield a precise, balanced and structured wine, with breadth and tension in just the right measure.
Chardonnay Empreinte and Savagnin Empreinte: the range of wines aged under a veil of yeast without topping up for three years, in the style of Vin Jaune. Chardonnay Empreinte is exceptionally rare, with notes of curry, green pepper, candied citrus, nuts and gunflint. The Savagnin, more classic in its Jura character, combines depth, walnut and saline tension.
Vin Jaune: aged for seven years under a veil of yeast in a dry cellar, then bottled in a 62 cl clavelin. Powerful and extraordinarily concentrated in both structure and aromatic richness, it remains elegant and lively, with the potential to age for decades. One of the great successes of the southern Revermont.
Poulsard: vinified as whole clusters with very little extraction, then aged for about ten months in large oak casks and seasoned barrels. Pale in color, with an inviting nose of red berries and sweet spices and an airy, easy-drinking palate. The archetype of a refined Jura red.
Trousseau: more structured, this savory, tangy red offers fine tannins and vibrant vinous character. Its notes of strawberry, red currant and spice linger without any loss of depth. A spirited Trousseau made for the table.
Pinot Noir: from vines around 40 years old on marl, macerated as whole clusters and aged for about ten months in demi-muids and seasoned barrels. Very pale in color, vibrant and low in alcohol, with a juicy, floral palate and subtle, refined tannins.
Crémant du Jura: made entirely from Chardonnay grown on clay-limestone soils, it delights with its purity and aromatic precision. Well-judged acidity lends sparkle to flavors of fresh pear, apple and greengage plum against a chalky backdrop.
Vin de Paille: a distinctive expression of this local tradition, blending Savagnin, Chardonnay and Poulsard in roughly equal parts from red and brown marl soils. The grapes are dried on racks before gentle pressing and six years of barrel aging. Candied fruit, musk and spice come together in an irresistibly fresh sweet wine.
Macvin du Jura: two-thirds Chardonnay and Savagnin must fortified with one-third aged Jura marc, then aged for two to three years in 225-liter barrels. Rich yet never heavy, with notes of candied grapes, dried fruit and walnuts, it is best enjoyed chilled as an aperitif or with blue cheese.
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