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Must-See Châteaux |
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Based in Meursault, at the heart of the Côte de Beaune, Domaine Jean-Marie Berrux is one of the most singular and discreet addresses in contemporary Burgundy. Originally from Savoie and a former advertising professional who turned to winemaking in the early 2000s, Jean-Marie Berrux passionately cultivates 1.5 hectares of old vines between Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, farmed biodynamically. Under the iconic label of the "Petit Têtu", he crafts natural, lively and digestible wines, made without additives, fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged at length in his underground cellar. Having become essential references of the new-generation Burgundy scene, his rare cuvées embody a sincere, free and deeply terroir-driven viticulture.
The story of Domaine Jean-Marie Berrux reads like a fine novel of reinvention. Originally from Savoie, where his uncle was already practising organic farming, Jean-Marie Berrux first built a flourishing career in advertising and then audiovisual production in Paris. But the call of the land eventually caught up with him. Inspired by experiences working in the vineyards of his home region and in the Jura, he decided at the turn of the 2000s to leave everything behind and enrol in viticulture and oenology studies in Beaune, the viticultural capital of Burgundy.
His vision is clear: to produce great wines from one of the most prestigious terroirs in the world, as naturally as possible. He then acquired 1.5 hectares of old-vine plots situated between Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet, and produced his first vintage in 2004. He named this cuvée "Le Petit Têtu", an affectionate nod to his own stubborn character. Very quickly, his vibrant and pure chardonnays became a reference in the world of Burgundian natural wines, sought after by wine merchants and fine dining establishments as far afield as Scandinavia and North America. Jean-Marie Berrux is also co-founder, alongside Jean-Pascal Sarnin, of the natural négociant house Sarnin-Berrux, based in Monthélie.
The vineyard of Domaine Jean-Marie Berrux spans just 1.5 hectares, nestled in the heart of the Côte de Beaune, between the iconic villages of Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet. This small surface area is a deliberate choice: it allows the winemaker to tend each plot with artisanal, almost market-garden precision. The soils, typical of Burgundy, are deep clay-limestone that impart to the chardonnay its mineral tension and characteristic salinity, while pinot noir finds here an ideal terrain to express freshness and finesse.
The old vines, heirs to a precious viticultural heritage, have been farmed biodynamically since the estate's inception. Jean-Marie Berrux pays particular attention to soil vitality, biodiversity, and natural balance. All work is carried out by hand, in harmony with the rhythm of the vine, without the use of synthetic chemicals. Each plot receives tailored care according to its specific needs, so that its individual character can fully express itself in the glass.
In the cellar, Jean-Marie Berrux's philosophy can be summed up in a few words: minimal intervention, maximum patience. Harvesting is exclusively carried out by hand, with rigorous sorting of the grapes. Fermentations take place solely through indigenous yeasts naturally present on the berries, with no addition of selected yeasts, enzymes, or other oenological inputs. Sulphur is used in minimal quantities, and is absent entirely in certain cuvées, in order to preserve the wine's full freshness and drinkability.
The ageing, carried out with exceptional care, takes place in the cellar buried beneath the family home in Meursault, a place of remarkable thermal stability. The wines rest at length in multi-use oak barrels, which provides gentle oxygenation without marking the wine with the tannins of new wood. Bottling takes place in the family courtyard, in keeping with the pace of each vintage, with a minimum of SO2 added at bottling. The small volumes produced — around 9,000 bottles per year for the flagship cuvée — ensure a level of attention to detail that is rare in Burgundy and give rise to living wines that improve with time.
Le Petit Têtu (Bourgogne Blanc): the true signature and flagship cuvée of the estate, this 100% chardonnay white Burgundy is sourced from old vines planted between Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet. Vinified on indigenous yeasts and aged at length in multi-use barrels, it reveals a brilliant pale yellow colour, a delicate nose of white flowers, white-fleshed fruits, and saline notes. The palate is straight, taut, lively and round at once, carried by a chiselled minerality and a fresh, beautifully pure finish. This vibrant, sincere, and precise chardonnay has become one of the absolute benchmarks of new-wave Burgundy and rewards several years of cellaring remarkably well.
Le Têtu Cuvée Spéciale (Bourgogne Blanc): a rarer and more confidential version of the Petit Têtu, this Cuvée Spéciale is drawn from a specific plot selection or an extended ageing period. Still 100% chardonnay, it pushes even further the pursuit of intensity, depth, and aromatic complexity. The wine is distinguished by a denser texture, a refined palate grain, and a remarkable saline length, eloquently reflecting the precision of the biodynamic work carried out by Jean-Marie Berrux.
Nondegu (Bourgogne Rouge): the estate's only red wine, the Nondegu is a delightful pinot noir vinified in the house's purest natural tradition. Born in 2019, this fresh, refined, and fruity wine follows a minimalist approach, with very little added sulphur. The colour is light, the nose opens on aromas of crunchy small red fruits, cherry, and flowers, while the palate proves digestible, juicy, and vibrant — true to the airy, thirst-quenching style that characterises natural Burgundian pinot noirs. Certain vintages of the Nondegu are also produced as a blend and labelled as Vin de France, showcasing the winemaker's creative freedom.
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