Rostaing Côte Rôtie La Côte Blonde 2021
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One of Côte-Rôtie’s greats: Rostaing
Based in Ampuis in the Rhône Valley, René Rostaing is renowned worldwide for his Côte-Rôtie wines (Ampodium, Côte Blonde, La Landonne) and Condrieu (La Bonnette). Domaine Rostaing has become one of Côte-Rôtie’s most important estates since René Rostaing took over production from his father-in-law Albert Dervieux’s vineyard. A remarkably talented winemaker, René Rostaing produces impeccably structured wines defined by finesse. In 2015, however, he handed the reins to his son Pierre, who now makes all the cuvées himself. Domaine Rostaing owns an exceptional plot on the Côte Brune at La Landonne, which it vinifies separately.
The story begins in 1971, when René Rostaing, then a notary, started tending a few family plots in Ampuis. At a time when the Côte-Rôtie vineyards were neglected and hillside plots sold for next to nothing, he acquired two tiny parcels, one in Côte Blonde and the other in La Landonne. His uncle by marriage, Marius Gentaz-Dervieux, one of the appellation’s great traditionalists, passed on a traditional approach to winemaking. Through his marriage, René Rostaing gained another leading mentor: his father-in-law Albert Dervieux-Thaize, president of the Côte-Rôtie winegrowers’ association for more than three decades.
The turning point came in the early 1990s. Albert Dervieux retired after the 1989 vintage, followed by Marius Gentaz in 1993. Both men passed their plots of very old vines to René, notably in La Viaillère, Fongeant, La Garde and Côte Brune. The estate then grew to around 7.5 hectares, and René Rostaing left his legal career to devote himself entirely to the vines. Over 25 years, he built a worldwide reputation, remaining faithful to a precise, fragrant style acclaimed by international critics. In the late 1990s, the family also acquired a property in the Languedoc near Nîmes, the former Puech Chaud, now Puech Noble. Since 2015, René’s son Pierre Rostaing has managed the vineyards and winemaking on his own, carrying on the legacy while further refining the precision of extraction and aging.
The vineyard comprises around 20 plots spread across approximately 14 Côte-Rôtie lieux-dits, on precipitous slopes terraced with dry-stone walls. In the north, Côte Brune lies on mica schist rich in iron oxides, producing deep, tannic wines that are austere in their youth. This is where La Landonne lies, the estate’s largest holding at around 1.6 hectares, with vines often 60 years old and some approaching a century. To the south, Côte Blonde has light-colored, siliceous and sandy gneiss soils suited to supple, floral wines with immediate appeal, where a few Viognier vines remain interplanted according to tradition.
These are joined by historic plots such as La Viaillère and Fongeant, as well as vines just outside the appellation in Collines Rhodaniennes and a small Viognier plot in the Bonnette lieu-dit in Condrieu. Work is done by hand, yields are deliberately low, and vineyard management is measured and respectful of the soils, with plowing and controlled ground cover on slopes where mechanization is almost impossible. In the Languedoc, at Langlade in the Gard, Domaine de Puech Noble occupies a small plateau covered with rounded pebbles over a limestone base. This terroir recalls parts of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and is ideally suited to Syrah alongside Mourvèdre, Grenache and Rolle.
The cellar philosophy is resolutely traditional. Grapes are harvested and sorted by hand, and whole-cluster fermentation plays a central role: depending on the vintage and the ripeness of the stems, the proportion of whole clusters can reach 100%, bringing freshness, tension and aromatic complexity. Maceration lasts from seven days to more than three weeks, with very gentle extraction. The estate uses rotating tanks not to speed up the process but, on the contrary, to recreate the slow macerations of the past, sometimes with just one rotation a day.
Aging lasts around 20 months on average, generally about 22 months, in barrels and demi-muids, with new oak deliberately limited to no more than 5% to 15%, depending on the cuvée. In contrast to the heavily oaked style that long prevailed in Côte-Rôtie, this choice keeps fruit and terroir at the forefront. The wines are bottled with minimal intervention, without aiming for immediate polish. This gives them remarkable aging potential and a fragrant, almost floral signature that enthusiasts recognize instantly.
Côte-Rôtie Ampodium: named after the Latin name for Ampuis, this cuvée was long called Cuvée Classique before being renamed starting with the 2009 vintage. It blends Syrah from thirteen different lieux-dits, giving it unexpected complexity for a so-called entry-level wine. Blackcurrant, licorice, violet and pepper dominate in its youth, before developing notes of forest floor and game. An accessible fine Côte-Rôtie, to drink between five and fifteen years of age.
Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde: from the light-colored gneiss soils in the south of the appellation, with vines up to 75 years old and a small proportion of Viognier planted among them. It is the estate’s most charming and aromatic wine, marked by violet, light tobacco, cinnamon and candied red fruit. Its tannins are fine and tightly knit, its finish smooth and seemingly endless. A model of Rhône elegance, ideally opened after eight to ten years.
Côte-Rôtie La Landonne: the estate’s flagship plot, on the iron-rich schist of Côte Brune, with very old vines inherited from Marius Gentaz. Made entirely from Syrah, it yields a dark, dense and powerfully structured wine with notes of black fruit, olive, leather, graphite and spice. Austere and closed in its youth, it rewards patience, revealing itself after ten to fifteen years and capable of aging for 30 years or more.
Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune: a rare cuvée first made in the 2013 vintage, from vines replanted around the turn of the 2000s on a former plot belonging to Marius Gentaz. Produced only in exceptional years, it bears an old-fashioned label honoring the legendary winemaker. Deep, mineral and smoky, it lies between the power of La Landonne and the estate’s aromatic precision.
Côte-Rôtie La Viaillère: another little-known tribute, this cuvée comes from Albert Dervieux-Thaize’s historic plot, planted with very old Syrah vines on schist. It is bottled separately only when the vintage and yields allow, in a few hundred bottles bearing a label based on Dervieux-Thaize’s. A taut, spicy and distinctive wine, highly sought after by collectors.
Condrieu La Bonnette: from a tiny Viognier plot in the Côte Bonnette lieu-dit, on weathered granite soils. Far from the appellation’s sometimes exuberant opulence, it favors finesse, with aromas of dried apricot, orange zest and white flowers, and a rich yet fresh palate ending in an elegant hint of bitterness. A classically styled Condrieu to enjoy within its first five years.
IGP Collines Rhodaniennes Les Lézardes red: Syrah from old vines just outside the Côte-Rôtie appellation, vinified with the same care as the appellation cuvées. Lively black fruit, pepper and floral notes, with a supple, easy-drinking palate. An excellent way to discover the Rostaing style at an accessible price.
IGP Collines Rhodaniennes Les Lézardes white: pure Viognier grown near Condrieu, vinified for freshness and fruit without heaviness. Apricot, white peach and acacia blossom lead, with a rounded yet precise palate. Ideal as an aperitif or with fish or citrus-accented poultry.
Languedoc Puech Noble red: the estate’s other side, from Langlade near Nîmes, on a plateau of rounded pebbles over limestone. Dominated by Syrah, with Mourvèdre and Grenache, this cuvée combines southern depth with unexpected freshness, offering notes of garrigue, blackcurrant, licorice and spice. It has good aging potential of around ten years.
Languedoc Puech Noble white: made from southern white grape varieties, including Rolle and Roussanne, it favors tension and salinity over opulence. White flowers, citrus, stone fruit and a mineral finish make for a distinctive, food-friendly white that remains little known.
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