Henri & Gilles Buisson

History of Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson

The Buisson name has been associated with the village of Saint-Romain for centuries, with the family tending vines on these slopes since at least 1758. The defining chapter began in 1947: that year, the very year Saint-Romain gained its appellation d’origine contrôlée status, Henri Buisson planted five hectares of vines and established himself as an independent winegrower. With his wife Marguerite, he made the bold choice, for the time, to bottle his own wine and sell it under his own label, breaking with the practice of selling in bulk to merchants.

Gilles Buisson, Henri’s son, continued the venture with his wife Monica. The couple expanded the vineyard, which reached 14 hectares in 2000, built a new winery and modernized its equipment. In 2008, Franck and Frédérick Buisson took up the mantle, bringing winemaking experience gained on several continents. They carried forward their grandfather’s instinct for organic farming—he had already been receptive to the natural approaches of the 1960s and 1970s—obtaining Ecocert certification in 2009, then converting the entire vineyard to biodynamics from 2018 under the Biodyvin label.

Terroirs and Vines of Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson

The vineyard covers about 19 hectares across some fifteen appellations, with nearly 11 hectares of Pinot Noir and 8 hectares of Chardonnay, plus a few rows of Aligoté. Saint-Romain is its beating heart. Perched against its Jurassic cliff, the village has parcels at elevations of 290 to 450 meters, considerably higher than the Côte de Beaune average. This high-altitude coolness, long considered a disadvantage, has become a major asset: it preserves acidity, lengthens the growing season and produces taut, saline wines that are easy to drink.

The geological mosaic here is striking. Saint-Romain marls, calcareous soils, colluvial soils over limestone, chalky scree and brown clays succeed one another from climat to climat, with exposures ranging from east to west according to the slopes of the valley. Beyond these village sites lie outstanding terroirs across the Côte: Auxey-Duresses, Beaune, Pommard, Volnay, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet and the Corton hill. The densely planted vines—10,000 per hectare—are tended without herbicides or synthetic pesticides, using plowing, hilling, shallow cultivation and shoot thinning to control yields. Harvesting is entirely by hand, with sorting in the vineyard and again at the winery.

Winemaking at Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson

The winemaking philosophy comes down to one idea: guide rather than correct. Each climat is vinified separately to preserve its distinct character, and interventions are kept to a strict minimum. The reds are made from whole or partially destemmed grapes, with the proportion of whole clusters often ranging from 40% to 70%, depending on the cuvée and vintage. Fermentation begins with native yeasts in stainless steel tanks, with gentle extraction—infusion and light pump-overs—that emphasizes fruit, fine tannins and drinkability. The wines are then aged for about twelve months in oak barrels of various sizes, with a deliberately modest proportion of new oak.

The whites are pressed directly, gently settled and then aged on fine lees in 228- and 500-liter barrels, sometimes supplemented by stainless steel or concrete tanks depending on the terroir. Lees stirring is restrained to preserve Saint-Romain’s characteristic mineral tension. Each wine is tasted daily during vinification for individualized monitoring. The estate takes its minimalist approach so far as to offer two “Absolu” cuvées, vinified and bottled without added sulfur. Its environmentally responsible approach extends even to the choice of corks, bottles and equipment.

The wines of Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson

Bourgogne Aligoté “Pierre Percée”: 100% Aligoté from 30-year-old vines planted at an elevation of 450 meters on a limestone base interwoven with marl and clay, facing south/southeast. A lively, crystalline and saline white with a pronounced mineral character. A high-altitude Aligoté that favors freshness and precision over roundness.

Bourgogne Blanc: a blend of Chardonnay parcels on the heights above Saint-Romain, supplemented by declassified village-appellation fruit from the Côte de Beaune and grapes from another certified organic estate. Aged half in used barrels and half in stainless steel, it combines crispness, finesse and depth. A compelling introduction to the range.

Saint-Romain “Le Jarron” white: a steep, southwest-facing parcel between 293 and 380 meters, on light, sandy soils over limestone scree. The most floral of the estate’s Saint-Romain wines, it is bursting with fruit and marked by citrus, linden blossom and white flowers. Its gentle minerality lends it a pleasant roundness and a mouthwatering finish.

Saint-Romain “Perrière” white: Chardonnay from 40-year-old vines facing due east, between 303 and 340 meters, on colluvial soil over limestone. As its name suggests, this climat has an abundance of limestone rocks. They give the wine remarkable chalky tension, a profile of citrus and orange zest, and a long, austere, stony finish.

Saint-Romain “Sous Le Château” white: a south/southeast-facing parcel at 370 meters, nestled beneath the ruins of an old castle and generously bathed in sunshine. The 30-year-old vines grow on limestone colluvial soil. This favorable exposure yields a sunnier, more textured white, combining preserved lemon, toasted hazelnut and smoke without ever losing its saline freshness.

Saint-Romain “En Poillange” white: 60-year-old vines facing southeast, between 353 and 380 meters, on colluvial soil over Saint-Romain marl. A high-altitude climat with a high limestone content, aged in 500-liter barrels to soften the site’s intense minerality. The result is smooth and elegant, balancing restrained creaminess, bright lemon and stony freshness.

Saint-Romain “Sous La Velle” white: a historic parcel of the estate, situated literally below the upper village, midway up the slope at 370 meters. Its 2.5 hectares of 60-year-old vines face east. This signature white has intense chalky minerality, concentration and tension, with notes of citrus, white flowers and fresh herbs. A benchmark wine that has contributed greatly to the appellation’s reputation.

Saint-Romain “Sous La Velle” Absolu white: the same emblematic parcel, vinified and bottled without added sulfur. The absence of added sulfites allows for vibrant aromatic expression and an even livelier texture. It must be kept in a cool cellar below 14°C and served with delicate fish or shellfish.

Meursault “Les Vignes de Marguerite”: a tribute to Marguerite Buisson, who brought a few Meursault vines as part of her dowry. A blend of the neighboring “Chevalières” and “Luchets” parcels, with 70-year-old Chardonnay vines at 280 meters on east-facing clay-limestone soil. A sensuous, charming Meursault with white peach and yellow fruit notes, lovely fullness and a fresh finish.

Puligny-Montrachet “Les Reuchaux”: Chardonnay from 60-year-old vines at 230 meters, facing east on limestone soils where deep clay-limestone marl beds alternate with exposed hard rock. The clayey silt, thick at the top of the slope, becomes thinner farther down. A refined Puligny, floral and delicately lemon-scented, with a focused structure and a long, lingering saline finish.

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru: the pinnacle of the estate’s whites, born on the limestone slopes of the Corton hill. A grand cru Chardonnay of restrained power, combining ripe white fruit, almond, sweet spices and deep saline minerality. Its structure and length make it a wine for very long aging; give it several years before opening it with fine fish or a festive poultry dish.

Saint-Romain “Combe Bazin” red: 100% Pinot Noir from 30-year-old vines facing southwest, at the very top of the valley at 360 meters, on calcareous soil and Saint-Romain marls mixed with brown clay. Highly expressive on the nose and easy to approach, it reveals notes of lingonberry and tart red berries. A crisp, charming Pinot made for immediate pleasure.

Saint-Romain “Sous Roche” red: the estate’s original red cuvée, the counterpart to the white “Sous La Velle.” Three hectares of 60-year-old Pinot Noir vines, often from massal selections planted by Henri Buisson, face west at 380 meters on calcareous soil over marl. Made with a high proportion of whole clusters and then aged for twelve months in barrels, it combines black fruit, woodland herbs, fine tannins and a bracing mineral finish.

Saint-Romain “Sous Roche” Absolu red: the version of the “Sous Roche” parcel made without added sulfur, from 60-year-old vines at 385 meters. The absence of added sulfites gives it an intensely aromatic nose centered on ripe fruit and spices, with a character true to Pinot Noir. The palate is enveloping and deep, carried by the fresh, vinous structure characteristic of the estate. Store below 14°C.

Beaune “Les Associés” red: a blend of roughly equal parts from two contrasting sites, one higher up and the other lower on the slope, on south-facing clay-limestone soils between 220 and 350 meters, with 30-year-old vines. Vinified separately in tanks, the parcels produce an elegant, floral and fragrant Beaune, pale in color and deliberately classic in style.

Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru “Les Ecusseaux” red: Pinot Noir from 30-year-old vines planted at 250 meters on colluvial soil over marl, with a due-south exposure. This premier cru produces a supple, fleshy wine with aromas of raspberry, red currant and black cherry. Its velvety structure and spicy finish make it a red that is approachable young and made for the table.

Pommard “Les Petits Noizons” red: a south-facing parcel at 310 meters on clay-limestone soil, overlooking the Les Charmots and La Platière premier crus. Its name comes from an old local word for walnut trees. Full-bodied and flavorful, with hints of spice, this Pommard offers lovely depth while remaining more approachable in its youth than is typical of an appellation known for wines built to age.

Volnay 1er Cru “Chanlin” red: Pinot Noir from 40-year-old vines at 300 meters, facing east on the marls of Volnay, near the Pommard boundary. This climat combines Volnay’s finesse with a slightly firmer structure. Violet, cherry and sweet spices mingle with silky tannins in an elegant, highly fragrant premier cru that benefits greatly from a few years in the cellar.

Corton Grand Cru “Le Rognet-et-Corton” red: a named site on the southeastern corner of the Corton hill, on the Ladoix-Serrigny side, facing east at 270 meters on Argovian clay-limestone and well-draining gray limestone. The vines are about 70 years old. In its youth, this grand cru exudes spiced fruit, blackcurrant and kirsch, before developing notes of woodland floor, truffle and leather. A captivating wine best enjoyed between 4 and 15 years of age.

Corton Grand Cru “Les Renardes” red: beautifully east-facing at 300 meters, midway up the Corton hill, this 60-year-old vineyard benefits from highly clay-rich, iron-bearing soils of the Upper Oxfordian. This heavy red earth produces opulent, powerful wines with dense tannins and an imposing structure, wines that demand patience and reward long aging.