Auxey Duresses

Where is the Auxey-Duresses appellation located?

The Auxey-Duresses appellation is located in Burgundy, in the Côte-d'Or département, at the heart of the Côte de Beaune, about ten kilometres south-west of Beaune. The village occupies a lateral combe that cuts into the Côte, between Meursault to the east, Monthélie and Volnay to the north-east, and Saint-Romain upstream, on the road to La Rochepot. The vineyard extends between 250 and 380 metres in altitude, notably on the slopes of the Montagne du Bourdon, and also includes the hamlet of Melin. The declared production area is approximately 137 hectares, of which around thirty are classified premier cru, with output of roughly 5,000 to 6,000 hectolitres. The red wines may carry the Côte de Beaune designation or be declassified to Côte de Beaune-Villages.

History of the Auxey-Duresses Appellation

The history of the Auxey-Duresses appellation is part of the broader story of the Côte d'Or vineyard, developed from the early Middle Ages by the great monastic estates and the Dukes of Burgundy. The village, whose church preserves a remarkable sixteenth-century triptych, long lived in the commercial shadow of its neighbours: before the establishment of appellations, its whites were commonly sold under the name of Meursault and its reds under those of Volnay or Pommard — a practice that was then commonplace but that durably delayed recognition of the Auxey name.

The turning point came in 1924, when the commune of Auxey obtained the right to append to its name that of its principal cru, Les Duresses, officially becoming Auxey-Duresses. Recognition as an appellation d'origine contrôlée followed with the decree of 31 July 1937, as part of the great wave of Burgundian AOC creations, with the delimitation of the nine climats classified as premier cru. The village is also home to the headquarters of Maison Leroy, founded in 1868, which has become one of the most prestigious names in Burgundy. Since the 2000s, the rise of the whites, favoured by the altitude and climate warming, and the conversion of numerous estates to organic farming have considerably raised the overall level of the appellation.

What are the terroirs of the Auxey-Duresses appellation?

The terroirs of the Auxey-Duresses appellation are organised around two opposing slopes, separated by the combe, which explains the coexistence of both colours. The south-facing slope of the Montagne du Bourdon, fully south-facing and a direct extension of the hillsides of Monthélie and Volnay, concentrates all of the premier crus: brown calcareous soils, scree and entroques limestone here ensure optimal ripeness for pinot noir. The opposing slope, facing east and south-east above Melin and towards Saint-Romain, rests on cooler, more clayey Jurassic marls, the preferred terrain of chardonnay, which gains tension and finesse here.

Nine climats are classified as premier cru, all located on the best-exposed slopes, as the appellation has no grand cru. The most highly regarded are Les Duresses and Bas des Duresses, which gave the village its name, Le Climat du Val and Le Clos du Val, Les Bréterins, La Chapelle, Reugne, Les Grands Champs and Les Écusseaux. At village level, the lieux-dits Les Clous, Les Hautés, Les Boutonniers, La Macabrée and Les Crais also stand out, particularly for the whites. The climate, temperate with a continental tendency, is cooler here than on the plain, with harvests that are often later — an asset that has become increasingly valuable today.

Which grape varieties are permitted in the Auxey-Duresses appellation?

Two grape varieties structure the Auxey-Duresses appellation, following the classic rule of the Côte d'Or. Pinot noir, known locally as pinot noirien, makes up the red wines: a demanding variety, susceptible to disease and requiring careful shoot-thinning, it yields wines here with a ruby colour, frank fruit and firm tannins, marked by the freshness of the altitude. Chardonnay, formerly known as aubaine, is responsible for the whites: at this level it retains a lively acidity while achieving fine ripeness, resulting in precise, saline wines well suited to ageing. As elsewhere in Burgundy, an accessory presence of chardonnay, pinot blanc and pinot gris — known here as pinot beurot — is tolerated in the reds, but the practice has virtually disappeared. Base yields are set at 40 hectolitres per hectare for reds and 45 for whites. Uniquely among village appellations, the lyre training system is still permitted on certain historic parcels.

What are the different styles of Auxey-Duresses wines?

Auxey-Duresses wines come in two colours with distinctly different personalities. The reds, which predominate, are harvested by hand at the best producers, sorted and then fully or partially destemmed, extracted with restraint through pigeage and pump-overs, before ageing for twelve to eighteen months in barrel with a modest proportion of new oak. The premier cru cuvées from the Bourdon hillside show a density and tannic structure close to those of Volnay and Monthélie, with an additional freshness. The whites, gently pressed, fermented and aged on the lees in barrel with measured bâtonnage, offer a taut palate, a chiselled texture and aromas of citrus, white flowers, hazelnut and fresh butter, in a more vertical style than that of Meursault.

As for food pairings, the reds complement roast poultry, bœuf bourguignon, veal, small game, mushrooms and aged cheeses such as époisses or a mountain tomme. The most structured premier crus pair well with sauced meats and slow-cooked dishes. The whites are suited to river fish, scallops, chicken in cream sauce, Burgundy snails, risottos and pressed cheeses such as comté or beaufort.

What are the best vintages of Auxey-Duresses?

The best vintages of Auxey-Duresses over the past thirty years follow the rhythm of the Côte de Beaune, with one important nuance: the altitude of the village works in its favour in warm years. Among the great successes are 1999, 2002 and 2005, then the duo of 2009 and 2010, the first generous, the second of very classic precision. 2014 proved remarkable in white, 2015 in red, 2016 yielded fine wines despite the frost and 2017 produced well-balanced bottles, particularly successful in chardonnay. 2018, 2019 and 2020, very sunny years, delivered ripe wines that the sector's inherent freshness saved from heaviness, while 2022 combines volume and balance and 2023 marks a return to brilliant, vibrant fruit.

Conversely, 2004, 2011, 2012 and 2013 require careful selection; 2021 suffered a severe spring frost followed by a cool summer, yielding light, tart wines produced in very small quantities; and 2024 will be remembered as a trying vintage, marked by heavy mildew pressure. Today, the 2020 to 2023 whites are drinking with great pleasure, the 2018 to 2022 village reds are at their peak, while the 2019, 2020 and 2022 premier crus still merit a few more years in the cellar.

What are the best estates in the Auxey-Duresses appellation?

The best estates of the Auxey-Duresses appellation rank among the most sought-after names in Burgundy, often established in neighbouring villages. The Domaine du Comte Armand, famous for its monopoly on the Clos des Épeneaux in Pommard and farmed biodynamically, has held fine parcels here since the Pascal Marchand years: its Auxey-Duresses premier cru wines, both red and white, are among the absolute benchmarks of the village and display remarkable depth. Domaine Coche-Dury, one of the most mythical names in Meursault, vinifies here a red and a white Auxey-Duresses that have become genuine collector's items, produced in tiny quantities and sought after worldwide. Domaine Roulot, another monument of Meursault chardonnay, produces here a white of exemplary purity and tension, considered one of the best value-for-money wines in its range.

The village is home to the headquarters of Maison Leroy, founded in 1868, and Lalou Bize-Leroy farms here, through Domaine d'Auvenay, a few minuscule parcels: her Auxey-Duresses Les Boutonniers and La Macabrée, farmed biodynamically and produced in a few hundred bottles, reach stratospheric prices and rank among the rarest whites in the world. Other celebrated growers come here in search of freshness: Anne-Marie and Jean-Marc Vincent, based in Santenay, produce a highly sought-after white Les Hautés, while Alain Gras, a leading figure of Saint-Romain, crafts consistently delicious old-vine cuvées here.

How long should an Auxey-Duresses wine be kept?

The ageing potential of an Auxey-Duresses wine depends on its colour and appellation level. Village reds are ideally enjoyed between four and eight years, a period when fruit and suppleness predominate. Premier crus from the Bourdon hillside, notably Les Duresses and Les Écusseaux, require five to six years to soften their tannins and evolve magnificently over twelve to fifteen years in great vintages, developing notes of undergrowth, leather and spice. Village whites are best drunk between three and seven years, while old-vine cuvées and the most tensile single-parcel wines easily hold ten to twelve years, gaining in complexity on registers of toasted hazelnut and honey.

To preserve this potential, store bottles on their sides, in the dark and away from vibrations, between 11 and 13 degrees, with a humidity level of 70 to 75%. Serve the reds between 14 and 16 degrees and the whites between 11 and 13 degrees, avoiding excessive cold, which would mask the salinity. Decanting for thirty minutes to one hour benefits young premier cru reds, while whites intended for ageing open up beautifully in a wide glass, and older vintages need only a careful opening just before serving.