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Located in northern Yunnan, China, this wine estate produces exceptional cuvées blended from emblematic Bordeaux grape varieties, grown at vertiginous altitudes between 2,200 and 2,600 metres. Under the visionary direction of Maxence Dulou, a Bordeaux oenologist and agronomic engineer, Ao Yun transforms the challenges of a dry, monsoon-free climate and a mountainous landscape into a unique expression of finesse, freshness and complexity. These wines, born of manual and organic viticulture that respects local traditions, join the prestigious Estates & Wines collection of LVMH.
The story of Ao Yun begins in 2008, when the LVMH group entrusted Australian oenologist Tony Jordan with the ambitious mission of finding a Chinese terroir capable of rivaling the world's greatest wines. After four years of intense exploration across the provinces of China, armed with pedological analyses and meteorological data, Jordan identified northern Yunnan, at the gateway to Tibet, as the ideal viticultural paradise. This mythical location, nestled near the legendary city of Shangri-La and at the foot of the sacred Meili mountains, had already seen the first vines born in the 19th century, planted by French missionaries along the Mekong.
In 2012, Maxence Dulou, drawing on his experience at Château Quinault l'Enclos in Saint-Émilion and his adventures in Chile and South Africa, took the reins of the project. He settled with his family in this remote region, facing colossal logistical challenges — steep roads, lack of stable electricity and extreme altitudes — to build a winery in Adong in 2014. The first vintage, unveiled in 2013, marks the official birth of Ao Yun, meaning "flying above the clouds" in reference to the enveloping mists of the Himalayan ranges. Since then, this great Chinese wine has won over international palates, triumphing at the "Judgment of Hong Kong" in 2020 and establishing itself as a cult wine, produced in confidential quantities for discerning collectors.
The terroir of Ao Yun is a living mosaic, spread across approximately 30 hectares divided into 314 parcels within four enchanting villages: Adong, Xidang, Sinong and Shuori. Bordered by the banks of the Mekong in the UNESCO Three Parallel Rivers region, these vineyards benefit from an exceptional microclimate, sheltered from the monsoons by peaks reaching 6,800 meters. At altitudes ranging from 2,200 to 2,600 meters — Adong being the highest in the world for a vineyard of this scale — the vines benefit from cool nights, temperate days similar to Bordeaux, and sunlight filtered by the mountain shadows, extending ripening through December.
The soils, non-compacted and rich in diversity — sands, clays, schists, granites and calcareous alluvials — allow roots to plunge up to 3 meters deep, promoting complex and elegant wines. Dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon (approximately 90–95% of plantings), the encépagement incorporates Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah and Petit Verdot, planted on their own rootstock on slopes too steep for any mechanization. Cultivated organically by 110 Tibetan peasant families, these ancestral vines — stemming from state plantings of the 2000s, supplemented by those of the estate since 2012 — require 3,500 hours of manual labor per hectare per year. This artisanal labor, enriched by a virtuous ecosystem (yak manure, nocturnal drip irrigation), gives the grapes a skin thickened by intense UV rays, promising silky tannins and a saline freshness that is the signature of the Himalayan terroir. For an authentic terroir wine purchase, these subtle parcels, subdivided into 900 sub-units for tailor-made management, guarantee a pure and nuanced expression.
Winemaking at Ao Yun is a symphony of ingenious adaptations to an extreme environment, where oxygen is reduced by 25% at 2,600 meters. Each parcel is vinified separately in small stainless steel tanks, with manual harvests spread over 30 to 68 days to pick grapes at optimal ripeness. Extended macerations, aerated to compensate for the altitude, and alcoholic and malolactic fermentations in new barrels or Chinese stoneware jars preserve the freshness and concentration of the fruits. The aging, minimalist and non-interventionist, favors foudres, wineglobes and one-wine barrels to soften the powerful tannins without masking the mineral character, with a progressive reduction of sulfur and natural micro-oxygenation.
Inspired by Bordeaux expertise blended with Burgundian touches for the assemblages, this exclusive organic approach integrates precise weather forecasting and rigorous grape sorting (elimination of copper and sulfur residues). Since 2016, sea-level tastings have refined the blends, while the inaugural addition of Syrah and Merlot in 2017 brings roundness and exoticism. The result: velvety, persistent red wines with a saline and airy finish, ideal for long cellaring.
The cuvées of Ao Yun, produced in limited editions, capture the Himalayan essence through emblematic vintages, each a variation on the theme of fresh concentration and fine tannins.
Ao Yun 2013 (90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc): Pioneer first vintage, vinified at the Shangri-La cooperative. Deep garnet color, mentholated nose of red fruits, blackcurrant and smoky cedar evolving toward plum and dried fig. Lively, tonic and saline palate, with fine tannins and a cherry brandy-zested freshness. Round and fresh, it expresses the nascent finesse of the terroir.
Ao Yun 2014 (90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc): Structured and wild vintage, the first to benefit from a pedological study. Aromas of cedar, cinnamon, meat and dark berries; powerful, taut palate with a creamy and tangy finish. Elegant and energetic, marked by an early and modest harvest.
Ao Yun 2015 (79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Cabernet Franc): Voluptuous and spicy icon, victorious at the Judgment of Hong Kong. Full-bodied nose of candied cherry, soy sauce and incense; ample, saline and mentholated palate, with tannins sculpted over a gourmand length of cherry coulis. Sunny yet fresh, from compact harvests favoring Adong and Shuori.
Ao Yun 2016 (74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 4% Syrah, 2% Petit Verdot): Persistent and exotic, a renaissance after rainy seasons. Smoky nose of cedar and yellow fruits; elegant palate with dense, mineral tannins and a signature saline finish. First inclusion of Syrah for complexity, blends refined in Hong Kong.
Ao Yun 2017 (72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc, 4% Syrah, 3% Petit Verdot, 2% Merlot): Concentrated, fresh and velvety, despite a humid summer. Aromas of fresh black fruits, game and cold fireplace; round palate, micro-oxygenated for silky tannins, with a touch of Merlot for roundness. Record late harvest through November 22.
Ao Yun 2018 (60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot, 7% Syrah, 4% Petit Verdot): Precise and sensual, after water stress constraints. Warm nose of graphite, blackcurrant and violet; creamy, vibrant and mineral palate, with a blood orange-zested finish. Advances in viticulture: weather forecasting and grape sorting, less oaky aging.
Ao Yun 2020 (60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot, 6% Syrah, 5% Petit Verdot): Reference vintage, consistent despite unsettled weather. Dense nose of dark fruits, incense and rose; airy, velvety tannic palate with a licorice and salivating finish. Eighth lucky cuvée, harvests spread out for perfect ripeness.
Ao Yun 2021: Robust and vigorous, bottled in 2023, released spring 2025. Fiery nose of grilled black fruits and tobacco; imposing, fresh palate with integrated grippy tannins and an enticing sweetness. Extreme dry climate, tense but successful ripening.
These cuvées, rated up to 97/100 by critics such as James Suckling, pair beautifully with the exclusive Riedel glass designed in 2018 to enhance bouquet, texture and finish.
Ao Yun is a Himalayan odyssey, a great Chinese wine that blends local heritage and world-class expertise for unforgettable cuvées. Take advantage of our exclusive selection on Vins & Millésimes right now to acquire Ao Yun at the best price! Order now and let yourself be carried above the clouds!
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