Jules Métras Chiroubles La Montagne 2020
Jules Métras Chiroubles La Montagne 2020
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Jules Métras is one of the most promising and admired figures of the young Beaujolais generation. Son of Yvon Métras, a legendary winemaker from Fleurie and pioneer of natural winemaking alongside Marcel Lapierre and Jean Foillard, Jules grew up among the Grille-Midi vines and chose to perpetuate and expand his father's legacy. After studying at the Lycée Viticole de Beaune and two years of experience abroad (New Zealand and Chile, among others), he settled in 2014 in Vauxrenard, about ten kilometres from Fleurie, and produced his first bottles under his own name. His first vineyard is an 80-year-old abandoned plot located at the back of his father's cellar — a plot that Jules Chauvet, the "godfather of natural wine", had himself cultivated. Today, having gradually taken over Yvon's vines alongside his own acquisitions, Jules manages an estate of just under ten hectares across Beaujolais-Villages, Chiroubles, Fleurie and Moulin-à-Vent, always farmed organically, without sulphites, with carbonic maceration using indigenous yeasts in sealed concrete vats.
Jules Métras was born and grew up in the world of natural Beaujolais wine. His father Yvon, who took over the family domaine in 1988 on 5 hectares at Grille-Midi in Fleurie, drew inspiration from the great figures of natural wine such as Marcel Lapierre and Jules Chauvet to develop an uncompromising winemaking philosophy: no chemicals in the vineyard, organic and biodynamic farming, carbonic maceration with indigenous yeasts, zero sulphur. Yvon's Fleurie Ultime cuvée, sourced from 120-year-old vines, has become one of the absolute icons of Beaujolais, regularly cited as the most expensive Beaujolais bottle at iDealwine auctions.
Jules, after his studies in Beaune and his experiences abroad (in New Zealand and Chile in particular), returned in 2014 and settled in Vauxrenard in his father's cellar, who had left Fleurie by then. He began with a single plot: an 80-year-old abandoned vine that was located behind the cellar, one of the plots that had belonged to Jules Chauvet. It is this plot that gave birth to his first cuvée "Bijou", a local slang term popularised by his friend Kéké Descombes. Progressively, Jules acquired plots in Chiroubles (in "the green Beaujolais", with no surrounding vines), bought a horse to work the Bijou plot, and gradually took over his father's vines in Fleurie and Moulin-à-Vent. Today, Jules heads the expanded family domaine, perpetuating and developing the legacy in his own style.
Jules Métras's vineyard is spread across several Beaujolais appellations, generally at altitudes above the average. The Bijou plot in Beaujolais-Villages is located in Vauxrenard, at 450 metres altitude, on sandy-clay soils richer than the Chiroubles terroirs. It is a former plot of Jules Chauvet, 80 years old when Jules settled here. This plot is now worked entirely with a horse. The Chiroubles plots, the highest-altitude cru in Beaujolais ("the green Beaujolais"), are located on lean granitic soils at altitudes above 300–400 metres, imparting a characteristic freshness and elegance. In Fleurie and Moulin-à-Vent, Jules works the vines inherited from his father Yvon, including the centenary vines of Grille-Midi.
The entire vineyard is farmed organically, without any chemical inputs, in the tradition of the Yvon Métras domaine. Biodynamic preparations (500, herbal teas, dynamisation) are used. The vines average 80 years of age, with centenary plants on Yvon's plots. All harvesting is done by hand, with a late harvest to ensure optimal ripeness. The soil work on the Bijou plot is carried out exclusively with a horse.
Jules vinifies in his father's cellar in Vauxrenard, following the same philosophy: gentle and lengthy carbonic maceration with indigenous yeasts, in sealed concrete vats, without added sulphur, without oenological inputs, without destemming. The grapes, harvested relatively late, are cooled before beginning a slow, lengthy fermentation (sometimes 8 to 9 days before fermentation starts), in hermetically sealed concrete vats to preserve the natural carbonic atmosphere. Ageing takes place exclusively in old barrels (never new oak). Bottling is carried out without filtration. Zero sulphur across all his cuvées, like his father. "His father never worries": this serenity, passed down from Yvon to Jules, can be felt in every bottle.
Beaujolais-Villages Bijou: The domaine's founding and most emblematic cuvée, sourced from the 80-year-old plot in Vauxrenard, at 450 metres altitude, sandy-clay soil, formerly the property of Jules Chauvet. Worked with a horse. "Bijou" is a local slang term popularised by Kéké Descombes. Carbonic maceration in sealed concrete vats, slow fermentation with indigenous yeasts, aged in old barrels, without sulphur. A deep nose of crushed berries, lightly toasted. Blackcurrant fruit with the suavity and dark florals characteristic of the Métras father and son. A palate of incredible density and complexity for a Beaujolais-Villages. "Jules Métras tends small vines to produce great Beaujolais." A wine to decant or to cellar for a few years. Produced in very limited quantities.
Beaujolais-Villages La Montagne: Red Beaujolais-Villages cuvée sourced from other plots in Jules's vineyard in Vauxrenard, in a style close to Bijou but with a slightly different expression linked to the terroirs. A red wine of fine density and great aromatic complexity, in the same philosophy: carbonic maceration, indigenous yeasts, zero sulphur.
Chiroubles: Red cuvée from the Chiroubles cru, the highest-altitude cru in Beaujolais, on lean granitic soils "in the green Beaujolais, with no surrounding vines." Chiroubles produces the lightest and most airy Beaujolais, with a characteristic floral elegance. Jules expresses it in his natural style: gentle carbonic maceration, indigenous yeasts, no sulphur. A delicate and fresh red wine, with aromas of violet, raspberry and light red fruits, a fine and airy palate.
Fleurie Le Printemps: Red Fleurie cuvée sourced from the vines inherited from his father Yvon on the Grille-Midi climat. "Cherry-coloured robe achieved with a beautiful infusion that yields aromas of crunchy red fruits." A red wine in the floral and elegant style of Fleurie, with the freshness and precision characteristic of the domaine. The most accessible and most immediately seductive Fleurie cuvée in the Jules range.
Moulin-à-Vent: Red Moulin-à-Vent cuvée sourced from the plots inherited from Yvon on the most powerful cru in Beaujolais. A red wine denser and more structured than the Fleurie and the Beaujolais-Villages, with the characteristic aromas of Moulin-à-Vent: blackcurrant, violet, spices and granitic minerality. Ageing potential of 8 to 12 years.
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