Louis Antoine Luyt Pipeno Coronel de Maule 2020
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The Louis-Antoine Luyt estate embodies a singular adventure: that of a French winemaker who set out to restore the reputation of Chilean vineyards. Settled in the Maule Valley, south of Santiago, this pioneer of natural wine works with very old ungrafted vines, starting with the País grape variety, to craft living wines, free of artifice and deeply rooted in their terroir. From generous Pipeño wines to more ambitious single-vineyard cuvées, the range appeals as much to natural wine enthusiasts as to curious minds in search of authenticity.
Originally from Saint-Malo and from a Burgundian family, Louis-Antoine Luyt first discovered Chile in 1998. He began there in the kitchen before developing a passion for wine, to the point of building the wine list for a Santiago restaurant. Back in France, he trained in viticulture and oenology in Beaune, then honed his vision alongside natural wine figures such as Marcel Lapierre in Beaujolais and Philippe Pacalet. This dual French and Chilean culture would durably shape his approach to the craft of winemaking.
In 2006, he settled permanently in Chile and founded the Clos Ouvert estate with his cousin Matthieu de Genevraye, in the Cauquenes region. The 2010 earthquake, measuring 8.8 on the Richter scale, devastated his winery and caused him to lose tens of thousands of litres of wine. Far from giving up, he created his own structure and pursued his goal: to produce a quality natural wine. Recognised as one of the first to have bottled and exported a wine made from the País grape variety, he has established himself today as a major player and pioneer of the Chilean wine renaissance.
The heart of the estate beats in the Maule Valley, approximately 400 kilometres south of Santiago, complemented by grapes from the Itata and Bío Bío areas. Here, the terroir tells a rare story: that of pre-phylloxera vines, planted on their own rootstocks and aged between 150 and over 300 years. The País, the emblematic grape variety brought long ago by Spanish missionaries (also known as Misión or Listán Prieto), grows alongside Cinsault, Carignan, Syrah, Carménère, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir, as well as white grape varieties such as Moscatel de Alejandría, Torontel, Sémillon, Chasselas and a Gamay Blanc from an old massal selection of Chardonnay.
The soils, sandy and rich in decomposing granite, dotted with ferruginous clays, quartz and rock blocks, give the wines freshness and mineral energy. The vineyard is farmed organically, without irrigation, with soil work often carried out by horse. This preservation of a unique viticultural heritage allows the estate to offer cuvées that faithfully express the diversity of the terroirs of southern Chile.
At Domaine Louis-Antoine Luyt, winemaking is as respectful as possible of the grape and the place. Fermentations are started solely with indigenous yeasts, without any oenological additives, with sulphur additions reduced to zero or kept to an absolute minimum. Most of the wines are neither fined nor filtered, in a constant pursuit of purity and vitality in the bottle.
Each range has its own signature. The Pipeño wines follow the most traditional Chilean method: grapes crushed by foot, manual destemming on a zaranda (coligue sieve), fermentation in a lagar (open vat), then ageing in pipas, the large wooden barrels that give these wines their name. The País line favours carbonic maceration to reveal the finesse of the grape variety, while the Huasa cuvées are aged in barrels. Some juices rest in a tinaja (clay jar) or macerate on skins for the whites. Several cuvées are imported and bottled in France, near Nuits-Saint-Georges.
The Pipeño range brings together easy-drinking, gourmand wines, most often bottled in the generous one-litre format. The Pipeño Coronel del Maule, made from País vines over 250 years old, seduces with its juicy, fleshy and slightly earthy palate and aromas of fresh grape juice. The Pipeño Carrizal showcases País with crunchy fruit, and its Pipeño Carrizal Blanco version, a blend of Muscat, Chasselas, Sémillon and Torontel, offers a golden colour and notes of passion fruit, pineapple, orange zest and sage. The Pipeño Portezuelo, from Itata, the Pipeño Santa Juana, the Pipeño Pichihuedque and the Pipeño Blanco complete this accessible and thirst-quenching range.
The single-vineyard cuvées explore País in all its depth. El País de Quenehuao, made from vines between 250 and 300 years old, delivers a dense and expressive red, while El Mismo highlights the freshness and unique character of this historic grape variety. The Huasa cuvées, aged in barrels, gain in structure and complexity: the Huasa de Pilen Alto and the Huasa de Pichihuedque rank among the most accomplished and sought-after expressions of the estate.
On the whites and sparkling wines side, the winemaker shows no lack of boldness. The Blanco Chileno blends 95% Gamay Blanc (an old massal selection of Chardonnay) and 5% Gordo Blanco (Moscatel), for a taut and saline wine. The Gamay Blanc Cuvée Nature offers a more varietal expression, while the Gorda Blanca Cuvée Benoît, from Bío Bío, plays on aromatic generosity. Sparkling wine lovers will appreciate the Pet Nat (pétillant naturel) from Bío Bío, and the curious will enjoy the Chicha Luyt, a nod to a traditional Chilean drink.
The Clos Ouvert range, heir to the early days of the adventure, brings together varietal blends such as the Grande Vie Dure cuvée, which combines País, Carignan, Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon and a touch of Syrah and Merlot. Finally, the eponymous Louis-Antoine Luyt line, recognisable by its labels inspired by the old buses of Santiago, shines a light on pure single-variety wines: a supple and fragrant Cinsault, a Carignan from 70-year-old vines, a sunny Syrah and a Moscatel de Alejandría from old vines, vinified as an aromatic dry white.
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