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Must-See Châteaux |
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Domaine Camin Larredya is one of the finest gems of Jurançon, in the South-West of France, and the flagship of this appellation from the Pyrenean foothills, south of Pau. Led by Jean-Marc Grussaute, named Winemaker of the Year by the Revue du Vin de France in 2023, the estate spans around twelve hectares of terraced vines on the slopes of La Chapelle-de-Rousse, farmed using organic and biodynamic methods. Its name, which means "path" in the local dialect, points the way to excellence in both dry and sweet Jurançon, thanks to the traditional grape varieties petit manseng and gros manseng, complemented by petit courbu, camaralet and lauzet.
The Camin Larredya property was acquired as early as 1900, but it was not until 1970 that the vine truly took root there, when Jean Grussaute planted petit and gros manseng whose harvest was then brought to the neighbouring cooperative cellar. The turning point came with his son Jean-Marc, whose destiny was shaped in adolescence by the premature death of his father. Convinced that it was his duty to carry on the succession, this passionate rugby lover turned to studies in viticulture and oenology, before joining his mother on the family vineyard in 1988, at just twenty years of age.
For a decade, Jean-Marc Grussaute built his knowledge, played rugby with Section Paloise, then gave up the oval ball to devote himself entirely to the vine. He changed his methods, converted to organic farming, planted massal selections, refined his maturities, blends and ageing, and developed a passion for the great terroirs he identified on maps. His revelation was the Côte Blanche, a rare limestone hillside. Gradually elevating the estate to the pinnacle of the appellation, he has made it the theatre of Jurançon's renewal, now supported by a team of around ten people committed to the family and human dimension of the work.
The vineyard unfolds at the heart of a magnificent amphitheatre, on the verdant hills of La Chapelle-de-Rousse, facing the Pyrenees and the imposing Pic du Midi d'Ossau. The vines, planted on terraces along sometimes vertiginous slopes, benefit from a unique climate, marked by the foehn, that warm southerly wind which ensures long, sun-drenched autumns ideal for the ripening of the mansengs and the crafting of sweet wines. The soils combine pebbles, clay and, on a few exceptional plots, a rare limestone hillside.
Certified organic since 2007, the estate also practises biodynamics and follows the lunar calendar. The work in the soil, more grounded and peasant-like in spirit, relies on the Hérody method to understand and nurture the life of the land. The vines are tended meticulously by hand, like a garden, and yields are deliberately limited. It is from this fine reading of the terroirs that the estate's emblematic single-plot cuvées were born, each revealing a precise facet of the hillside.
In the cellar as in the vineyard, Jean-Marc Grussaute relies above all on his instinct and on petit manseng, the backbone of the history and future of Jurançon. Harvests are done by hand, often in successive passes for the sweet wines in order to pick the dried grapes at the ideal level of concentration. Vinifications, with no fixed recipe, always seek to preserve the purity of the fruit, the mineral energy and the freshness that are the hallmarks of the house style.
This pursuit of balance allows the estate to produce Jurançons secs of great openness, with no residual sugar, capable of rivalling the finest whites, as well as subtle sweet wines in which richness never overwhelms vivacity. The entire range, from dry to sweet, reaches an admirable level, celebrated by critics with scores regularly exceeding 94 out of 100.
La Part Davant (Jurançon sec): the estate's reference dry cuvée, sourced from plots situated on the front face of the hill. It masterfully plays the card of crunchy, expressive fruit, balanced by a superb saline and mineral backbone. The palate is juicy, vibrant and animated by a communicative energy, for a dry wine of remarkable openness and balance.
La Virada (Jurançon sec): another dry expression from the estate, this expressive and vivacious Jurançon combines aromatic intensity, the indulgence of ripe fruit and mineral energy. Pulpy and animated by a spiced drive of saffron, ginger and chilli, it reveals fine complexity, perfect alongside bold cuisine.
Costa Blanca (Jurançon sec): the estate's flagship cuvée, sourced from a rare limestone hillside, the Côte Blanche, a true revelation of Jean-Marc Grussaute's work. Having become, in just a few vintages, as essential as it is singular, this wine unites complexity, balance, length and freshness, and ranks among the finest dry whites of the South-West.
Au Capcèu (Jurançon moelleux): a sweet wine from the upper plots of the hill, this Jurançon combines elegant sweetness with fine freshness. With notes of ripe yellow fruits, candied citrus and spices, it offers a delicate balance between richness and tension.
Costat Darrèr (Jurançon moelleux): a single-plot cuvée born on the rear of the hillside, this sweet wine is distinguished by its depth and concentration. Rich and refined, it unfolds a palette of candied fruits and honey, enlivened by an acidity that preserves its brilliance and length.
Les Grains de Copains (Jurançon moelleux): a sweet wine for sharing and conviviality, true to the collective and warm-hearted spirit of the estate. Indulgent and approachable, focused on ripe fruit and sweetness, it offers a beautiful introduction to the world of Camin Larredya's Jurançon moelleux.
L'Iranja (orange wine): a rare and hard-to-find cuvée, this orange wine is crafted by macerating white grapes on their skins, in the manner of skin-contact wines. Highly original, it offers a tannic texture and singular aromas of citrus, zest and spices, reflecting the creative freedom of the estate.
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