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Must-See Châteaux |
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Domaine Camin Larredya is one of the finest gems of Jurançon, in the South-West of France, and the flagship of this appellation from the Pyrenean foothills, south of Pau. Led by Jean-Marc Grussaute, named Winemaker of the Year by the Revue du Vin de France in 2023, the estate spans around twelve hectares of terraced vines on the slopes of La Chapelle-de-Rousse, farmed using organic and biodynamic methods. Its name, which means "path" in the local dialect, points the way to excellence in both dry and sweet Jurançon, thanks to the traditional grape varieties petit manseng and gros manseng, complemented by petit courbu, camaralet and lauzet.
The Camin Larredya estate was acquired as early as 1900, but it was not until 1970 that the vine truly took root there, when Jean Grussaute planted petit and gros manseng, the harvest of which was then brought to the neighbouring cooperative cellar. The turning point came with his son Jean-Marc, whose destiny shifted in adolescence following the premature death of his father. Convinced that it was his duty to take over the succession, this passionate rugby enthusiast turned to studies in viticulture and oenology, before joining his mother on the family vineyard in 1988, at just twenty years of age.
For a decade, Jean-Marc Grussaute built his craft, played rugby for Section Paloise, then left the oval ball behind to devote himself entirely to the vine. He changed his methods, moved to organic farming, planted massal selections, refined his maturities, his blends and his ageing, and developed a passion for the great terroirs he identified on maps. His revelation was the Côte Blanche, a rare limestone hillside. Gradually elevating the estate to the summit of the appellation, he has made it the stage for the renewal of Jurançon, now supported by a team of around ten people committed to the familial and human dimension of the work.
The vineyard unfolds at the heart of a magnificent amphitheatre, on the verdant hills of La Chapelle-de-Rousse, facing the Pyrenees and the impressive Pic du Midi d'Ossau. The vines, planted in terraces on sometimes vertiginous slopes, benefit from a unique climate, marked by the foehn, that warm southerly wind that ensures long, sun-drenched late seasons, ideal for the ripening of the mansengs and the crafting of the sweet wines. The soils blend pebbles, clays and, on a few exceptional plots, a rare limestone hillside.
Certified in organic farming since 2007, the estate also practises biodynamics and follows the lunar calendar. The work of the soil, more earthbound and peasant-like in its approach, draws on the Hérody method to understand and nourish the life of the land. The vines are meticulously tended by hand, like a garden, and yields are deliberately limited. It is from this careful reading of the terroirs that the estate's emblematic single-vineyard cuvées were born, each revealing a precise facet of the hillside.
In the cellar as in the vineyard, Jean-Marc Grussaute relies above all on his instinct and on the petit manseng, the cornerstone of the history and future of Jurançon. Harvesting is done by hand, often through successive passes for the sweet wines in order to pick the dried grapes at the ideal concentration level. The vinifications, with no fixed recipe, always seek to preserve the purity of the fruit, the mineral energy and the freshness that are the signatures of the house style.
This pursuit of balance allows the domaine de produce dry Jurançons of great frankness, without residual sugar, capable of rivalling the finest whites, as well as subtle sweet wines where richness never overwhelms vivacity. The entire range, from dry to sweet, achieves an admirable level, acclaimed by critics with scores regularly exceeding 94 out of 100.
La Part Davant (Jurançon sec): the estate's reference dry cuvée, sourced from the plots situated on the front of the hill. It plays masterfully on the crunch of expressive fruit, balanced by a superb saline and mineral framework. The palate is juicy, lively and driven by a communicative energy, for a dry wine of remarkable frankness and balance.
La Virada (Jurançon sec): another dry expression from the estate, this expressive and lively Jurançon combines aromatic intensity, the indulgence of ripe fruit and mineral energy. Fleshy and driven by a spiced momentum of saffron, ginger and chilli, it reveals a beautiful complexity, perfect with bold cuisine.
Costa Blanca (Jurançon sec): the flagship cuvée of the estate, sourced from a rare limestone hillside, the Côte Blanche, a true revelation for Jean-Marc Grussaute. Having become in just a few vintages as essential as it is singular, this wine unites complexity, balance, length and freshness, and stands among the greatest dry whites of the South-West.
Au Capcèu (Jurançon moelleux): a sweet wine from the upper plots of the hill, this Jurançon pairs elegant sweetness with beautiful freshness. With notes of ripe yellow fruits, candied citrus and spices, it offers a delicate balance between richness and tension.
Costat Darrèr (Jurançon moelleux): a single-vineyard cuvée born on the rear of the hillside, this sweet wine stands out for its depth and concentration. Rich and refined, it unfolds a palette of candied fruits and honey, enlivened by an acidity that preserves its brilliance and length.
Les Grains de Copains (Jurançon moelleux): a sweet wine of sharing and conviviality, true to the collective and warm spirit of the estate. Indulgent and approachable, with ripe fruit and softness, it offers a beautiful entry point into the world of Jurançon moelleux from Camin Larredya.
L'Iranja (orange wine): a rare and hard-to-find cuvée, this orange wine is crafted by macerating white grapes on their skins, in the manner of skin-contact wines. Highly original, it offers a tannic texture and singular aromas of citrus, peel and spices, reflecting the creative freedom of the estate.
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