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Must-See Châteaux |
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Domaine La Grapp'A is one of the most exciting revelations in contemporary Jura. Led by the young winemaking couple Aurélie Parla and Julien Maublanc, based in Abergement le Grand, the domaine released its first vintage in 2021, under the benevolent mentorship of the legendary Jean-François Ganevat. Across nearly 5 hectares in production (8 hectares including young plantings), all Jura grape varieties (Trousseau, Ploussard, Pinot Noir, Savagnin and Chardonnay) are cultivated using organic and biodynamic farming, certified by Ecocert and Demeter.
The story of Domaine La Grapp'A begins with a passionate encounter and a decisive helping hand. Aurélie Parla and Julien Maublanc, a young couple driven by the desire to become winemakers, settled in Abergement le Grand, in the Jura, by taking over a first hectare of Pinot Noir grown in biodynamics, ceded by a prestigious estate in the region. It was Jean-François Ganevat himself, a cult winemaker of the Jura, who helped them get started by finding them the vines and sharing his precious advice.
The name of the estate sums up their project on its own: La Grapp'A for the bunch of grapes (the essence of wine), the "A" of Aurélie, the "A" of Abergement le Grand (their village), and the "A" of Arbois (their flagship appellation). The very first vintage, in 2021, was marked by spring frost that affected a large part of the Jurassian vineyard, but the couple did not give up. Since then, they have continued to expand their project, gradually withdrawing Julien Maublanc's family vines from the local cooperative, while never wishing to exceed the threshold of 10 hectares. A craftsman's approach, sincere and deeply rooted in the terroir.
The estate spans 8 hectares in total (of which 5 are in production and 3 are young plantings), straddling the Arbois and Côtes du Jura appellations. The plots, carefully selected by Aurélie and Julien, benefit from a particularly rich geology, blending blue marls, red Triassic marls and limestone outcrops — emblematic terroirs of the Jura that bring salinity, energy and precision to the wines.
The grape varieties encompass the full Jurassian palette, with particular attention paid to genetic diversity. These include Pinot Fin (recently planted), old massal selections of Chardonnay, Savagnin Jaune (clone 3309) and Savagnin Vert (renowned for its fine acidity), Trousseau and Poulsard (or Ploussard). In the vineyard, natural ground cover is favoured, with no chemical herbicides, and treatments are carried out using Bordeaux mixture and plant decoctions, in full harmony with biodynamic rhythms. Harvesting is done by hand and grape selection is carried out with particular care, as a family.
In the cellar, Aurélie and Julien practise a gentle, plot-by-plot and low-interventionist vinification, in the spirit of the great natural wines of the Jura. The process begins with a cold maceration without the addition of sulphur, which enriches the colour and aromatic depth. Fermentations then take place using only indigenous yeasts, without the addition of commercial yeasts or superfluous inputs, with the use of sulphur limited or even absent depending on the cuvée.
Macerations for the reds can last from two to five weeks in infusion, most often with whole bunches. The ageing is long and varied (in tanks, old barrels or amphorae), sometimes up to two years, depending on the cuvée. This experimental and meticulous work, guided by the advice of Jean-François Ganevat, gives birth to wines of great purity, elegant, highly aromatic, with an airy texture and remarkable finesse, reminiscent in many respects of the style of the wines from the celebrated winemaker of Rotalier.
Pet Nat Musc'Alis: the very first wine commercialised by the estate, this natural sparkling wine charms with its colour ranging from orange to peach skin, its delicate nose of fermentary, spicy and smoky notes. The palate combines breadth and tension, carried by a fine acidity and an airy texture, scattered with very fine bubbles. Intense and fresh finish on orange peel, Earl Grey tea and smoky notes.
Chardonnay Champ Millot: a single-plot Chardonnay cuvée from an old massal selection, aged two years in old barrels with topping up. A straight, pure wine with concentrated texture and a saline finish, perfectly expressing the freshness and minerality of the Jurassian soils. A fine expression of Jura Chardonnay.
Savagnin La Pierre: a 100% Savagnin cuvée aged for approximately two years, including eighteen months topped up in old barrels. The wine shows tension, salinity and depth, with great aromatic purity on citrus, almonds and mineral notes. A modern and precise interpretation of the Jura's great emblematic grape variety.
Sur la Côte: a 100% Pinot Noir cuvée from vines in Arbois, vinified with whole bunches. Tiled and vermillion in colour, with a delicate nose of cherry, peony and a hint of smoky pepper. The palate, with a light and airy texture, seduces with fresh fruit of great purity and a finish on orange peel. A refined and elegant Pinot Noir.
Champ Long: a second single-plot cuvée in Pinot Noir, vinified as naturally as possible, with a long infusion maceration. A wine focused on finesse, pure fruit and airiness, endowed with the estate's characteristic freshness thanks to a slight pétillance upon opening, which can be preserved or decanted according to preference.
Poulsard Les Sarres: a single-plot cuvée made from Poulsard (or Ploussard), the indigenous grape variety that reigns over the light wines of the Jura. Pale and luminous in colour, with a nose of fresh red fruits and gentle spices, a gulpable, lively palate with no aggressive tannins, ideal with Franche-Comté charcuterie or a matured Comté cheese.
Trousseau: a cuvée made from Trousseau, a minority yet essential red grape variety of the Jura, which brings structure and character. Long maceration vinification, aged in barrels, yielding a colourful, fruity and spicy wine with fine texture and great savoriness.
Père Guy: a cuvée paying homage to the estate's grandfather, produced in both white and red depending on the vintage. The red version is a blend of Trousseau, Ploussard and Pinot Noir from red Triassic marls, to be enjoyed for its fruit, freshness and silky mouthfeel. The white version, equally confidential, blends Chardonnay and Savagnin in a pure and precise spirit.
Syrah: an original cuvée crafted from carefully selected Syrah grapes from Roussillon, then vinified and aged in the Jura. A wine that is both sunny and fresh, with a dark colour, a nose of black fruits and spices, and a dense, well-balanced palate. A southern interlude that reveals the curiosity and boldness of the winemaking couple.
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